Type: Trad, 1700 ft (515 m), 14 pitches
FA: Wayne Goss-Jim Logan FFA- Leonard Coyne and Ed Russell
Page Views: 3,693 total · 17/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Sep 25, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

There are two different starts to the route. The cleaner start follows the first two pitches of the The Cruise/Scenic Cruise and then traverses left to the start of the third pitch of the Goss-Logan. The original start takes a bushy chimmey about a hundred feet left of the Cruise start. Allow at least ten hours for the route, if not more. We did it in 11 hours rim to rim with me leading all of the pitches but the third. This is a serious route with some big fall potential on pitch seven. Not as classic as the Scenic Cruise but a lot more demanding. Once past the first three pitches the climb becomes cleaner. I didn't climb the route for years because of the "rep" of pitch seven. Thanks to whoever replaced the bolts on that pitch. They don't make the runouts any shorter, just a little more comforting.

Pitch one and two: 5.9 Start as for the Cruise and climbing up 200 feet to a belay just below a large ledge at some fixed slings. This can done as one pitch using a 200 foot rope. Use long slings to avoid rope drag. Traverse left for 100 feet to a bushy corner system.

Pitch three: 5.8 Climb up the bushy corner past a couple of fixed pins with slings to a ledge just below a blocky section.

Pitch four: 5.9 Go left up the corner system and reach a belat at a bolt and fixed stopper.

Pitch five: 5.9 Go left and then down a for 10 feet. Climb up the wide crack/chimmey to the top of a large block. Use caution gaining the top of the block due to loose rock. Belay from bolts from the river side of the block.

Pitch six: 5.10 Climb up the obtuse thin corner with small gear to a belay at new bolt and bomber yellow alien.I would almost give this pitch an r-rating.

Pitch seven:5.11R The runout pitch. There are two long (20-25 feet) runout sections on this pitch with very bad fall potential. Traverse up and right into a small corner, place gear (small stopper and green alien) and then go right (scary 5.9) on fairly good holds to the first bolts (one modern/one old button)take a deep breath and traverse right on small edges (scary 5.10) to the second bolt. Clip the bolt and climb straight up past two more bolts (5.11) tending right to a crack (wild exposure). Belay about 15 feet up the crack or continue another 30 feet to a good ledge. I belay in the crack to keep my second in sight. A wild, wild pitch.

Pitch eight: 5.10+ Climb the obvious flaring hand and fist crack with good gear up to a good ledge. A hard pitch.

Pitch nine: 5.10 Climb up a hand and fist crack that leads into a wide chimmey. Follow the chimmey and veer left onto a flake. Climb the flake and then go right up a shallow, narrow groove (green alien at the top of the groove) and mantle onto a good ledge that meets into the "the Cruise/Scenic Cruise. Climb up a short slab to a good belay below a huge flake. Option: 5.10+ Traverse left under the overhang and then climb up a thin corner that leads directly to the shallow groove. I got off route on this pitch and did the above option.

Pitch ten: 5.8 Climb up blocky rock and then a short corner with a thin crack. Step left and go behind the huge flake. Climb up the flake and then flip the rope around to the front side of the flake. Climb up a short crack to a new three-bolt anchor.

Pitch eleven: 5.9+ Traverse right on a fairly good holds then up a short corner to a bolt (1/4 inch) on the right. Go right and then reach a new bolt and make a hard move past the bolt reaching a crack system. Follow the crack up to a great ledge below a small overhang.

Pitch twelve: 5.9+ Crank over the overhang and angle left up a good ledge and belay.

Pitch thirteen: Traverse left on good flakes for 25 feet to a corner. Follow the corner straight up (5.9+) to a good belay just below a red-colored overhang.

Pitch fourteen:5.8 Climb through the overhang and up a short corner. At the top of the corner veer right into a slot with a flake/crack on the left. Crank up the flake and over a small overhang to a large ledge system and the end of the climb. Traverse up and right to another ledge system. Go left for 300 feet to just below the overlook. climb up to the top.

Protection

Bring a standard rack up to a four friend, double up on the hand to fist size, six long slings and six quickdraws. A couple of the bolts on the crux pitch have been updated.

Photos