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Routes in North Chasm View Wall

827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apparition, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Black Penny A3 R
Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R
Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Journey Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kachina Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Partners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Walk of Shame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 X
White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Type: Trad, 1800 ft, 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Jimmy Dunn Dean Tshappat 5.10 A4 1974, FFA Jimmy Dunn Leonard Coyne, Oct.1980
Page Views: 1,141 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Jun 9, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

Follow th first 2 P's of stoned oven to the big chunky ledges, then drop down 15' and right 40' to the 3rd pitch.
P3- it shows this as the .11+ corner, its more like .11a and about 150' long, belay on ledge w/huge boulder.
P4- head up right facing 5.8 corner to roof heading right and then continue up right facing corner at about .9+ to another ledge belay, 150'.
P5- head up a left facing corner of sweet single and dbl. hand cracks to an optional belay on slab to the left 10' after a face traverse. we continued up the steep face and seam that exits to runout face moves and then back into the sweet dbl. corner of fingers at about .10+, the pitch was .12a, it was supposed to be .9. belay on good ledge at a flake that gear goes behind the top of. this was about 205'.
P6- head up a left facing corner for 20' then onto the face of sketchy flakes and face holds towards the arete, sick exposure!, then leftish back towards the left facing corner at about a heady .11b. about 100'.
P7- continue up the very shallow hand crack left facing corner at .10, then right under and around a 10' roof that turns the corner at about .10+. the whole time here you should be looking left right at the "enduro corner" of stoned oven. continue up the face at runout .9+. belay at the base of the off-hands crack of the 9th pitch in the guide. ( one could bail onto the stoned oven escape ledges at this point, as we did because of light and water).
P8- (P9 in the guide) looks sweet! heads up flared hand crack to the base of the O.W. pitch.
P9- climb the 4-7" o.w. for about 60' into the 4-5" 5.10 crack, then right to a hanging belay.
P10- head up a .10+/.11a left facing corner to the end of the "womb fight" area then a 5.9 ramp to the rim.

We tried this route twice, because of being off route the first time and the second not having enough light and water. we have consorted the guide topo and a topo that Leonard sent us and were on route the second time, but the grades were definitely "old school"! this is a full value grade 5 and is totally worth the effort by worthy parties! I can't wait to finish it! a good strategy would be to rap down and leave water and food at the triangle belay at the o.w. pitch, pretty easy to find from leaning over the top of the wall. if anyone has any imput that i have gotton wrong, i would love know and/or update the post.

Location

i believe the start for modern times is the same as Stoned Oven, at the 5.10 O.W. the pitches i will describe are what we climbed, not as the topo shows, the general direction is right but the decriptions and grades are way off or "old school"!
it is a full on grade 5 climb though, we still haven't finished up the o.w. at the top.
i will attempt to upload my topo of the route.

Protection

dbl. sets tcu's, dbl. set of cams from .5-#6,extra #1 and #3 cams, nuts, 17 runners, 70m rope

Photos

Rob Kepley
Westminster,CO
Rob Kepley   Westminster,CO
Sign me up for the next voyage! Jun 10, 2009