Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in North Chasm View Wall
|
827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
|
|
A Midsummer Night's Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
|
|
Air Jordan T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
|
|
Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Airiana Grande T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
|
|
Apparition, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
|
|
Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
|
|
Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
|
|
Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R |
|
|
Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
|
|
Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
|
|
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3 R |
|
|
Happy Ending T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Journey Home T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Kachina Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Kama Sutra T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Musical Partners T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
|
|
Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
|
|
Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0 |
|
|
Walk of Shame T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c V16 8C+ X |
|
|
White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 1500 ft (455 m), 11 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Jonathan Schaffer and Andy Hughes, April 2014 |
| Page Views: | 1,811 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | j wharton on May 1, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
Consult Vic Zeilman's excellent guidebook for an accurate topo and route description. This post is meant only to provide a few more pertinent details for would be suitors.
The route is quite good, particularly in its middle section. However, the first four pitches are mostly terrible. The second pitch is especially gross. Unless you like sharp crumbly squeeze chimneys followed by pigeon poop groveling, I would strongly recommend approaching the route via the 8th Voyage of Sinbad. With the 8th Voyage start, it's among the higher quality 5.12s in the Black.
Some additional notes to Vic's description and topo:
Pitch 5 (the first 5.12 pitch) is spicy. There is a RP placement up and left of the 3rd bolt that lessens the spice a bit, but expect some heads up climbing.
It is best to extend pitch 5 another 50 feet to a stance just above a small pricker bush (or do this as an additional short pitch). Otherwise you will have lots of rope drag for the pitch 6 crux.
Pitch 7 is also heads up with some potential to hit a pillar and ledge below you on hard-ish terrain.
Pitch 9 is the only unpleasant pitch in the upper portion of the route. It has a nasty midway bush, sharp crumbly "coral" covered rock and ends at a semi-hanging belay. Wear hand jammies or tape, and be prepared to grovel a bit.
We didn't climb it, but finishing via the Stoned Oven's final direct version looks pretty good (at least to start) and would be a nice way to avoid the Womb Fight. Apparently it's useful to have a tiny offset TCU or Alien to help protect this pitch.
The route took us 10-ish hours at a relaxed pace, although approaching via the 8th Voyage would likely be significantly quicker.
The route is quite good, particularly in its middle section. However, the first four pitches are mostly terrible. The second pitch is especially gross. Unless you like sharp crumbly squeeze chimneys followed by pigeon poop groveling, I would strongly recommend approaching the route via the 8th Voyage of Sinbad. With the 8th Voyage start, it's among the higher quality 5.12s in the Black.
Some additional notes to Vic's description and topo:
Pitch 5 (the first 5.12 pitch) is spicy. There is a RP placement up and left of the 3rd bolt that lessens the spice a bit, but expect some heads up climbing.
It is best to extend pitch 5 another 50 feet to a stance just above a small pricker bush (or do this as an additional short pitch). Otherwise you will have lots of rope drag for the pitch 6 crux.
Pitch 7 is also heads up with some potential to hit a pillar and ledge below you on hard-ish terrain.
Pitch 9 is the only unpleasant pitch in the upper portion of the route. It has a nasty midway bush, sharp crumbly "coral" covered rock and ends at a semi-hanging belay. Wear hand jammies or tape, and be prepared to grovel a bit.
We didn't climb it, but finishing via the Stoned Oven's final direct version looks pretty good (at least to start) and would be a nice way to avoid the Womb Fight. Apparently it's useful to have a tiny offset TCU or Alien to help protect this pitch.
The route took us 10-ish hours at a relaxed pace, although approaching via the 8th Voyage would likely be significantly quicker.
Location
If you're a glutton for punishment, begin approximately 200 feet up The Diagonal at an obvious tree, below a big, right-facing chimney system.
Otherwise begin with the first three pitches of the 8th Voyage of Sinbad.
Otherwise begin with the first three pitches of the 8th Voyage of Sinbad.
Photos
- No Photos -
3 Comments