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Routes in North Chasm View Wall

827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apparition, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Black Penny A3 R
Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R
Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Journey Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kachina Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Partners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Walk of Shame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 X
White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Type: Trad, 7 pitches
FA: Smith and Wharton
Page Views: 185 total, 2/month
Shared By: chris Kalous on Jul 6, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

A good route with a bit of scabby rock. A well protected 5.12 face climbing crux gives way to good technical corners. Nice position and exposure.

P1: Start up a rotten crack that leads to a square cut roof. Traverse left before the roof to join a cleaner crack with difficult small cam pro. Continue up and left to yet another corner and finally pegmatite ledges perched on the left edge of Aments Chimney. 5.11

P2: Daintily climb up blocks to place a high big cam. Then climb down and left, then up to a crack and a bolt. Climb to another bolt. Then step down and left on difficult face-climbing to clip a pin. 5.12-. Nebulous pro takes you up the arete to a stance below a shallow corner with a pin. Resist the temptation to lock up the red camalot sized part of the crack when you set up the belay. It will be an important footer for the first moves of P3.

P3: Make a difficult move off the belay. 5.11+. Climb the corner past several fixed nuts and a pin. A 5.11 stemming problem guards the stance for the belay.

P4: The slightly scabby corner continues for a rope-length to a good ledge down and left of an obvious OW corner. 5.11.

P5: Climb up to and layback and stem the wide corner (4.5 Camalot). 5.10+. Continue up and left on broken ground above. Belay on a large ledge below and right of the wide corner (Katchina Wings finish).

P6: Head up a wide open corner to a chockstone. Step left into an angling hand and finger crack. Belay on a large ledge. 5.10.

P7: Step left and head up 5.7 corners to easier ground and the huge tree ledge just below the top.

Walk left to find the 3rd class exit to the top.

Location

Starts just left of Aments Chimney and right of Kachina Wings after 4th class terrain gains the grassy ledges near these routes and Journey Home. Look for the corners and square roof on pitch one.

Protection

Nuts, "RPs", double set of cams to #2 Camalot. One each old #3, #4, and #4.5 Camalots.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
The crux was one of those black, "improbable cruxes" that really was weird and all the holds faced the wrong way. The 3rd pitch has seam crux moves over a ledge! Seam=no crack. We decided better to bail and do "Maiden", forgot how classic that is! Nov 9, 2010