The Apparition

For the overall quality of stone, brilliant face climbing, and little if any munge, I would put The Apparition near the top of the list of the best climbs I have done in The Black.

There was an excellent mini-guide in Rock & Ice No. 81 with a story about the FA of this route and an adequate topo. According to this: three hundred feet below the second Cruise Gully rappel, at the start of the traverse to Journey Home, begin the route at the second tree. It may be a little confusing to sniff out the start of the route.

P1. Climb unprotected 5.8 to a right-facing corner with some 5.9, to a ledge. This is a long pitch.

P2. Traverse up and right in an open book, then move up and left to a bolt. Traverse straight left (5.10+) past 2 more bolts to a semi-hanging belay at 2 bolts (strangely, this anchor is just above a nice little stance). This is a patently dangerous pitch to follow; the second may want to practice the 5.10 moves still clipped into the first bolt, then unclip to follow - if you blow it, you could swing a long ways and get hurt. Variation: Andy Donson climbed straight up from the belay (5.11c R or X) instead of doing the 5.10+ traverse, skipped the 2nd belay and joined the 3rd pitch.

P3. Move a little left, then climb a continuous stretch of difficult face past 4 bolts through a bulge, and punch it to the belay. This is brilliant climbing, 5.12b. There is a small flake which you crank on that may snap on somebody.

P4. This is the crux pitch. Climb a difficult (5.12a), right-facing corner with poor pro past a bolt, then follow the bolts through some of the best face climbing in the canyon, very spicy 5.12b or c. The crux is a tenuous standup move on a tiny crystal, using a shallow, rounded crescent hold with your left hand and not much else. It is a long pitch ending at a nice ledge. This was bolted on the lead. Several very good climbers have backed down from this lead due to the fall potential from the crux.

P5. Climb up, clip a bolt, then follow a corner to 2 more bolts protecting some 5.11- face moves. Perhaps it is a little runout. Belay over a small roof.

P6. Move out and right with little gear, then go up (5.10+) to a belay below the obvious, overhanging corner capped by a massive roof.

P7. Climb up and into the corner, then pull a hard move (5.11b or c). At the top of the corner, head straight left to an amazing belay on the arete (2 bolts). This is a wild pitch.

P8. A mediocre pitch leads to the terrace.

P9 (optional). Climb a vague 5.11 hand crack to the only tree on the rim. It is better to just walk left and solo off.

I would recommend a stiff edging shoe for this climb. Also, catch it in the shade or when temperatures are crisp - it would be a total grease-fest if you tried it otherwise. Plan on 6 to 8 hours.

One set RPs, one set Wireds, doubles TCUs, #0.5 to 2 Camalots, one# 3 Camalot, and a haul line. All anchors are fixed and bomber, and it is possible to rappel the entire route. Expect runout climbing on anything from 5.8 to 5.12 terrain.