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Routes in North Chasm View Wall

827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apparition, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Black Penny A3 R
Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R
Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Journey Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kachina Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Partners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Walk of Shame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 X
White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Type: Trad, 9 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Lazar, Wheeler, Lomme, Steiss
Page Views: 4,370 total, 22/month
Shared By: slevin on Sep 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

For the overall quality of stone, brilliant face climbing, and little if any munge, I would put Apparition near the top of the list of the best climbs I have done in the Black.

There was an excellent mini-guide in Rock & Ice No. 81 with a story about the FA of this route and an adequate topo. According to this: three hundred feet below the second Cruise Gully rappel, at the start of the traverse to Journey Home, begin the route at the second tree. It may be a little confusing to sniff out the start of the route.

P1. Climb unprotected 5.8 to a right-facing corner with some 5.9, to a ledge. This is a long pitch.

P2. Traverse up and right in an open book, then move up and left to a bolt. Traverse straight left (5.10+) past 2 more bolts to a semi-hanging belay at 2 bolts (strangely, this anchor is just above a nice little stance). This is a patently dangerous pitch to follow; the second may want to practice the 5.10 moves still clipped into the first bolt, then unclip to follow - if you blow it you could swing a long ways and get hurt. Variation: Andy Donson climbed straight up from the belay (5.11c R or X) instead of doing the 5.10+ traverse, skipped the 2nd belay and joined the 3rd pitch.

P3. Move a little left, then climb a continuous stretch of difficult face past 4 bolts through a bulge, and punch it to the belay. This is brilliant climbing, 5.12b. There is a small flake which you crank on that may snap on somebody.

P4. This is the crux pitch. Climb a difficult (5.12a) right-facing corner with poor pro (RPs, TCUs) past a bolt, then follow the bolts through some of the best face climbing in the canyon, very spicy 5.12 b or c. The crux is a tenuous standup move on a tiny crystal, using a shallow, rounded crescent hold with your left hand and not much else. It is a long pitch ending at a nice ledge. This was bolted on the lead. Several very good climbers have backed down from this lead due to the fall potential from the crux.

P5. Climb up, clip a bolt, then follow a corner to 2 more bolts protecting some 5.11- face moves. Perhaps it is a little runout. Belay over a small roof.

P6. Move out and right with little gear, then go up (5.10+) to a belay below the obvious, overhanging corner capped by a massive roof.

P7. Climb up and into the corner, then pull a hard move (5.11b or c). At the top of the corner, head straight left to an amazing belay on the arete (2 bolts). This is a wild pitch.

P8. A mediocre pitch leads to the terrace.

P9. (Optional) Climb a vague 5.11 hand crack to the only tree on the rim. It is better to just walk left and solo off.

I would recommend a stiff edging shoe for this climb. Also, catch it in the shade or when temperatures are crisp- it would be a total grease-fest if you tried it otherwise. Plan on 6 to 8 hours.

Protection

One set RPs, one set Wireds, doubles TCUs, #0.5 to 2 Camalots, one# 3 Camalot, a haul line. All anchors are fixed and bomber, and it is possible to rappel the entire route. Expect runout climbing on anything from 5.8 to 5.12 terrain.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
This route is spooky!

The rock quality on P4 is phenomenal. I didn't find any gear worth placing in the shallow corner before or after the bolt. Some good gear can be had in the flake and higher up.

Falls from the crux are 40-45 feet and clean. You may wonder why there is not another bolt below the crux at a reasonable stance. There is another crux at the next (hard to clip) bolt that is almost as hard as the first crux but with much less air potential.

R-rated climbing exists throughout the route. Every pitch is spicy.

The easier-rated pitches are a bit sandbagged. The traverse pitch is 10+ with some tricky route finding. The 3rd to last 10+ R pitch goes up some nebulous and slightly crumbly terrain with sporadic small gear. It would be easy to get off-route onto some much harder terrain on this pitch. The roof pitch (2nd to last) is probably stout to hard 11, rather than 11- as indicated by the topo. Oct 2, 2017
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12c R
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12c R
One of the best in the state, seriously. A couple notes that are useful. Hang your belayer 15 ft below the anchor on the crux pitch. Getting to and above the first bolt is insecure 12a R feeling risking big falls. The fall on the crux part is huge but safe. Super cryptic, insecure, and sequential. Oh and those 10+ pitches are no joke. Make sure you find the right way. Such a great route!!!! Nov 14, 2016