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Routes in North Chasm View Wall

827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apparition, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Black Penny A3 R
Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R
Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Journey Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kachina Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Partners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Walk of Shame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 X
White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Type: Trad, 1600 ft, 11 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ed Webster & Bryan Becker, 1979
Page Views: 3,480 total, 44/month
Shared By: e Dixon on May 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a really good route that needs to get done more. The climbing is fun and will clean up nicely with more traffic.

P1: Start in a short, left-facing corner that turns into a more straight-in crack. Climb this, then move right into another crack leading up to and through a roof with a nice hand crack. Continue up the hand crack to a nice ledge and belay (~130', 5.10).

P2: Move up and right past a short, right-arching crack, then wander up and right on loose and junky rock to a small stance/ledge and belay (~200', 5.7).

P3: Weave your way left on black rock to the base of an obvious, left-facing corner and belay (~50', 5.9).

P4: This is the 1st Ear pitch. Climb the nice, left-facing corner (fingers/hands) to below the ear. Undercling/layback left around the ear, continue a little right and belay at a ledge (~130', 5.10).

P5: The 2nd Ear. This pitch does have some bird shit on it. Move up/right into another nice, left-facing corner (fingers-cups). Climb this to below the second ear. Jam/undercling left around the ear to where the crack pinches. Make a delicate move left into another crack and continue up to a semi-hanging belay (~140', 5.10+).

From here, traverse right to a ledge atop the first pitch of Journey Home (~50', 5.7). The original finish follows Journey Home to the rim. For a more challenging day, continue up Twisted.

Location

Go down the Cruise Gully. The start is about 200' to the right of The Scenic Cruise. The short, right-facing corner and roof crack of the first pitch are easy enough to spot.

Protection

- (1) Good set of Stoppers
- (2) Green Alien - #3 Camalot
- (1) #4 & #5 Camalot.
Judging by the comments here, the route is probably cleaner in the spring after a winter of rain and snow. Even so, I can't imagine it's ever very clean. It's too bad, because if this were clean, every pitch would be excellent. Linked into Journey, I think it would be better than the Cruise/Scenic, but because of the crap, it's not. Also the first three pitches easily combine in two if you take the first pitch out to ~60m. Oct 23, 2017
Mike Tsuji
Boulder, CO
Mike Tsuji   Boulder, CO
The current state of the route is as if every bird in the state ate bad Mexican food and then flew into the cracks, shit themselves, and died. Oct 23, 2017
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
 
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
 
My partner, who really knows his shit, thought it tasted more like bat poop... but it really wasn't bad at all. Great route! (Climbed 5.15.17). May 16, 2017
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.11-
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.11-
I can't believe how many people have given this route 3 or even 4 stars? My partner and I just climbed this on 10/18/16, and there was so much bird shit on pitch 5 that I was literally knocking mounds of it off the hand and foot holds! Pitches 2 and 3 were also littered with feces making for some slippery climbing. My only assumption is that this route used to be much cleaner and a lot more birds have moved in in the last few years.

If anyone decides that wallowing through shit doesn't sound that bad, then my only recommendation would be to check out a variation to pitch 2 that we were scoping out from above at the pitch 3 belay. About 3/4 of the way up pitch 2, it appeared the you could angle up and left and then angle up and right to the pitch 3 belay ledge. We couldn't tell if there would be decent gear or not, but from our vantage, the climbing looked fairly reasonable (maybe 9/10-?), and it would avoid the not-so-great pitch 3 traverse. Oct 19, 2016
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11a
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11a
The bird shit is about a 3 out 10 on the crap-o-meter on P5. Nothing to be concerned with. I thought this route was more sustained and physical than Scenic Cruise! The ear on P4 is slightly committing but easier than it looks. A #5 halfway out the ear will calm the nerves. P2 is probably closer to 5.8-9 and 215 ft long. I ended up doing some harder moves with 30 ft runouts to avoid the bad rock. We didn't place any RPs, but a couple small TCUs did get used. Sep 19, 2013
sherena  
Kick ass classic climb. Sustained 5.10 climbing. Hrdly noticable bird shit as of May 27, 2012. Obvious route finding. Standard rack plus (1) #4 and #5. Jun 21, 2012
This climb is classic. With a little more traffic and a teeny bit of bird shit removal from the second ear, it would get a four star rating.
Seven pitches of continuous 9+/10 climbing with the second ear coming in at 11-, a little more continuous than the Scenic Cruise but not quite as classic- but close!
Don't forget to move left before you get too high on the second ear - consider this 11- and you won't be surprised.
Don't let the appearance at the start put you off, it cleans up quickly. By the way, the topo is wrong - the start is in a left-facing, not a right-facing, corner.
Did not use a #5 Camalot until the 5.9 OW on the Journey Home, the First Ear protects with a #4. You don't need two green Aliens, any smaller stuff will do. May 26, 2012
Rob DeZonia
  5.11b
Rob DeZonia  
  5.11b
Combine this with Journey Home and you get a route that only the Black can deliver. There is a serious amount of 5.10 climbing on the second ear. What a satisfying outing. The two routes combined created a 4 star outing for my brother and me. Pulling out of the second ear had one move that felt more like 5.11 to me. There was a big move from a jug undercling that is a little height dependent. There wasn't any slippery poop when we climbed it like 5 years ago. I would love to climb this again. Sep 2, 2011
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
 
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
 
There is bird shit on P5, but it's not the hardest climbing and protects well. The crux is shit-free. Found the ear on P4 to be more strenuous, it's kinda wide. Linking this into Journey Home was a super Black day of 5.10. Jun 6, 2011
Andy F
Durango, CO
  5.10+
Andy F   Durango, CO
  5.10+
This route was awesome! Eric and I thought it deserved to be posted on Mnt project, so it might get more traffic.. the second pitch is kinda a pile, but if you have climbed Journey Home and/or Scenic Cruise, you will love this route. DO IT!!! May 19, 2011