Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Ed Webster, Lauren Husted, 7/83; FFA: Ed Webster, Chester Dreiman, 9/83
Page Views: 12,177 total · 44/month
Shared By: Steve Levin on Jul 12, 2001 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

A Midsummer's Night Dream is an excellent, short climb which lies left of Leisure Climb. The climbing is varied and sustained at the 5.9 level, with a short section of low-end 5.11 on P2. With the "Sex Comedy" finish, a great pitch of 5.10 can be done instead of trending right into the very mediocre exit pitches of the Leisure Climb. Afternoon shade, a short "approach", and fast, well-protected climbing add up to a nice afternoon romp, something to do if you arrive at the Black in mid-morning and feel compelled to leave the beer cooler and campground. It is far better climbing then either Leisure Climb or Musical Partners (its neighbor to the left).

Locate the middle of 3 obvious crack systems just below the 2nd rap in Cruise Gully. Scramble 30 feet 3rd Class to a ledge to start.

Pitch 1 is nice 5.8/5.9 corner and crack climbing. Belay on a small ledge.

Pitch 2 climbs the crack and bulge, tricky, strenuous, but good pro, moving up and slightly right past a fixed pin to a belay stance.

Pitch 3 climbs excellent 5.8/5.9 up a wall right of the prominent, right-facing corner (some interesting fixed stuff, including a beak!), into the corner past some overhangs, then steps left to belay (with a 70m rope you can keep going to next belay).

Pitch 4 climbs 5.6 rock, clean and fun, up the buttress - do not trend right into Leisure Climb - to a "green" wall below a steep, sharp, hand-sized crack formed by a flake splitting the vertical gray wall above (this is "fresh" stone, i.e. somewhat newly fractured).

Pitch 5 climbs the splitter, a bit of jamming, liebacking, etc., stepping right around a small pinnacle, then up to a short, 5.10- face move to finish on the large terrace. Have doubles to 3.5", and perhaps a 4" cam, for this pitch...great exit pitch of 5.10.

Exit: walk left 150', around the corner to the exit slab to the actual rim.

Whereas Leisure Climb and Musical Partners are forgettable, mediocre routes, this one is very worthwhile - even worth repeating (a distinction in the Black).

Protection Suggest change

Doubles to 3". Bring up to 3.5 or 4" cams if you do the "Sex Comedy" finish.