Avg: 3.2 from 138 votes
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Ed Webster, Lauren Husted, 7/83; FFA: Ed Webster, Chester Dreiman, 9/83|
|Page Views:||10,148 total · 42/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Levin on Jul 12, 2001 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Locate the middle of 3 obvious crack systems just below the 2nd rap in Cruise Gully. Scramble 30 feet 3rd Class to a ledge to start.
Pitch 1 is nice 5.8/5.9 corner and crack climbing. Belay on a small ledge.
Pitch 2 climbs the crack and bulge, tricky, strenuous, but good pro, moving up and slightly right past a fixed pin to a belay stance.
Pitch 3 climbs excellent 5.8/5.9 up a wall right of the prominent, right-facing corner (some interesting fixed stuff, including a beak!), into the corner past some overhangs, then steps left to belay (with a 70m rope you can keep going to next belay).
Pitch 4 climbs 5.6 rock, clean and fun, up the buttress - do not trend right into Leisure Climb - to a "green" wall below a steep, sharp, hand-sized crack formed by a flake splitting the vertical gray wall above (this is "fresh" stone, i.e. somewhat newly fractured).
Pitch 5 climbs the splitter, a bit of jamming, liebacking, etc., stepping right around a small pinnacle, then up to a short, 5.10- face move to finish on the large terrace. Have doubles to 3.5", and perhaps a 4" cam, for this pitch...great exit pitch of 5.10.
Exit: walk left 150', around the corner to the exit slab to the actual rim.
Whereas Leisure Climb and Musical Partners are forgettable, mediocre routes, this one is very worthwhile - even worth repeating (a distinction in the Black).