Type: Trad, 165 ft (50 m)
FA: 2012, Philippe Wheelock
Page Views: 2,477 total · 37/month
Shared By: Dark Helmet on Oct 14, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Happy Ending is a great finish to A Midnight Summers Dream, bumping the climb from 3* to 4*.  After topping the Sex Comedy variation, walk left briefly, and look for a thin chalky corner to climbers right of the offwidth. There's single bolt ~25 feet up.

Start with tricky stemming and liebacking on flaky rock leading to a few face moves beneath a bolt. Transfer back to the crack, fire the crux, then just before topping out, solve a final overhang. Bring a double length sling for a tree belay at the rim.  It is a little spicy at the start with plenty of gear but less-than-inspiring rock. A slung and extended #4 protects a traverse move before the bolt. This is harder and more sustained than the AMSD crux.

Happy Ending is also great as a single pitch if you're cramped for time. Downclimb or rap in from the last 5.6 pitch of AMSD using a slung tree (a 70m rope is required and barely gets you to the ledge). You can double rope rap from a tree directly above the route as well.

Protection Suggest change

A double rack.

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