Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: 2012, Philippe Wheelock
Page Views: 310 total · 95/month
Shared By: Justin Skaare on Oct 14, 2018
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Happy Ending is a great finish to A Midnight Summers Dream, bumping the climb from 3* to 4*.  After topping the Sex Comedy variation, walk left briefly, and look for a thin chalky corner to climbers right of the offwidth. There's single bolt ~25 feet up.

Start with tricky stemming and liebacking on flaky rock leading to a few face moves beneath a bolt. Transfer back to the crack, fire the crux, then just before topping out, solve a final overhang. Bring a double length sling for a tree belay at the rim.  It is a little spicy at the start with plenty of gear but less-than-inspiring rock. A slung and extended #4 protects a traverse move before the bolt. This is harder and more sustained than the AMSD crux.

This is great as a single pitch if you're cramped for time. Downclimb or rap in from the last 5.6 pitch of AMSD using a slung tree (a 70m rope is required and barely gets you to the ledge). You can double rope rap from a tree directly above the route as well.

Protection

A double rack.

Photos

Vic Zeilman  
 
This direct finish is excellent! No single move is harder than probably 5.11a/b, but it’s steep, sustained, and feels 5.11 for the onsight lead for sure. This line was first discovered and cleaned up by Philippe Wheelock and Nick Wasser, then Wheelock fired the true FA in 2012 prior to the installation of a bolt (which keeps the climbing engaging but definitely mitigates the R-rating).

This is a primo option for a single pitch lead or toprope from the rim (ice park, lower-in style) on a questionable weather/limited time sort of morning. Oct 22, 2018