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Routes in North Chasm View Wall

827 Go! (AKA Job Site Dogs) T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
A Midsummer's Night Dream T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Air Guitar T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
Air Voyage T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Apparition, The T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Black Penny A3 R
Black Sheep, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Bloodsport T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Colorado Welcome Party T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Cruise, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Diagonal, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dylan Wall T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Eighth Voyage of Sinbad T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Free Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c R
Free Nose, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Goss-Logan T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Hallucinogen Wall, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A3+ R
Highway 61 Revisited T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Journey Home T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kachina Wings T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Leisure Climb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Movable Stoned Voyage T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moveable Feast T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Musical Partners T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Qualgeist T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Scenic Cruise, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stoned Oven T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Straight Out Da Projects T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Trilogy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Twisted T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a C0
Walk of Shame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3 X
White Devil TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Webster, Scannell,1983
Page Views: 1,488 total, 14/month
Shared By: Armin Colorado on May 7, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2016 Raptor Closures Details

Description

From Williams' book/my 2 cents: the route climbs leftmost of three crack systems, 20 ft left of Midsummer.

P1. Traverse left from 1st ledge 30 feet above gully. Gain crack system through moderate broken terrain, setup belay small grassy ledge right below base crack/pod system. 100.'

P2. Fire up pod/squeeze to gain finger/hand crack. you can either face climb or squeeze this first section, my partner leading it faced climbed with a powerful mantel move. Follow this system to base bombay chimney. 130'. Semihanging belay. Might be easier/more comfortable to belay lower.

P3. Squeeze chimney with PRO TCUs/Aliens follow moderate, broken, wandering terrain angling slightly [left] to large ledge base Sex Comedy pitch/Leisure route.

P4. Sex Comedy finish. Blast up steep, powerful, hand crack goes to fists. I exited left around the block halfway up the pitch and finished with 5.9 face move in right-facing corner above large flake that you just climbed over and top out to belay with red Camalots, 5.10.

Optional P5. Walk 60 yards west (left) which is way out and look for 1X4 foot pointed block. It's the first crack system L of the OW (Kuma Sutra?) Bouldery start to hands fingers, with exciting peg finish with stemming, 5.10.

Location

Descend the Cruise Gully. 100 feet after 2nd rappel. Solo up 4th class ledges 40 feet. After P4, walkoff left or do the optional P5.

Protection

Black Alien, doubles from green Alien size through #3 Camalot (1) #4 with extra hand and fist gear for Sex Comedy variation.

Photos

Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10
Musical Partners, Midsummer's Night Dream, and Leisure Climb all come together below the Sex Comedy finish. Sep 21, 2016
I believe the Sex Comedy finish is to the LEFT of Musical Partners. it certainly is to the left of Midsummer Night's Dream. It is shown to the left in William's book (pg. 101). May 23, 2016