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5.10b/c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 19 votes
Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Ed Webster, Paul Scannell, 1983 |
Page Views: | 3,077 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Armin hammer on May 7, 2009 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
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Description
From Williams' book/my 2 cents: the route climbs leftmost of three crack systems, 20 ft left of Midsummer.
P1. Traverse left from 1st ledge 30 feet above gully. Gain crack system through moderate broken terrain, setup belay small grassy ledge right below base crack/pod system. 100.'
P2. Fire up pod/squeeze to gain finger/hand crack. you can either face climb or squeeze this first section, my partner leading it faced climbed with a powerful mantel move. Follow this system to base bombay chimney. 130'. Semihanging belay. Might be easier/more comfortable to belay lower.
P3. Squeeze chimney with PRO TCUs/Aliens follow moderate, broken, wandering terrain angling slightly [left] to large ledge base Sex Comedy pitch/Leisure route.
P4. Sex Comedy finish. Blast up steep, powerful, hand crack goes to fists. I exited left around the block halfway up the pitch and finished with 5.9 face move in right-facing corner above large flake that you just climbed over and top out to belay with red Camalots, 5.10.
Optional P5. Walk 60 yards west (left) which is way out and look for 1X4 foot pointed block. It's the first crack system L of the OW (Kuma Sutra?) Bouldery start to hands fingers, with exciting peg finish with stemming, 5.10.
P1. Traverse left from 1st ledge 30 feet above gully. Gain crack system through moderate broken terrain, setup belay small grassy ledge right below base crack/pod system. 100.'
P2. Fire up pod/squeeze to gain finger/hand crack. you can either face climb or squeeze this first section, my partner leading it faced climbed with a powerful mantel move. Follow this system to base bombay chimney. 130'. Semihanging belay. Might be easier/more comfortable to belay lower.
P3. Squeeze chimney with PRO TCUs/Aliens follow moderate, broken, wandering terrain angling slightly [left] to large ledge base Sex Comedy pitch/Leisure route.
P4. Sex Comedy finish. Blast up steep, powerful, hand crack goes to fists. I exited left around the block halfway up the pitch and finished with 5.9 face move in right-facing corner above large flake that you just climbed over and top out to belay with red Camalots, 5.10.
Optional P5. Walk 60 yards west (left) which is way out and look for 1X4 foot pointed block. It's the first crack system L of the OW (Kuma Sutra?) Bouldery start to hands fingers, with exciting peg finish with stemming, 5.10.
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