Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Schaeffe, Calkins
Page Views: 1,624 total · 41/month
Shared By: Jay 1975 on Oct 26, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The crux is reach-dependent, a .12 or .13 leftward traverse.

This route has bullet hard, perfect, face climbing the entire way (except maybe the 1st and last pitch). There are a few runouts, but any falls would be clean. It would be best to have temps no higher than 60s!

Location

It is between "Apparition" and "Colorado Welcome Party". This starts at an obvious tree indicated in the topo.

Protection

Bring doubles to #1, 1 #2 and 1 #3, RPs, and nuts.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
  5.12
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
  5.12
I guess this was the initial topo and route. The final route path is way cool, hard and serious! My favorite on the whole panel! Sep 13, 2016
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.12+ R
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.12+ R
Incredible face climbing on perfect rock. Every pitch is worthwhile. I'll be back to redpoint P6. With the addition of new pitches, this is a sustained and enjoyable outing at the .11-.12 grade.
As a word of caution, the 3rd bolt on P6 (on the face above the .11R slab mantle) has been chopped, presumably by Shaffer. The climbing in this section is no harder than 10+/11- on very good rock, just don't blow the next clip. Oct 10, 2016
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
  5.12c R
Nick Schlichtman   Golden, CO
  5.12c R
Wild, rowdy, and awesome!

I found this to be quite a serious outing with many no fall moments on challenging terrain. I did the route as depicted in Vic's guidebook, including the straight up dihedral variation on P4 and independent 5.12a finish. The dihedral needs traffic but has some fantastic, however runout, climbing. The new independent pitch has a runout and insecure 11+ section on pegmatite with very serious fall consequence, capital R rated. Bolt 10 or so ft below and a fair distance to your right, facing a fall onto ledge/slab. The final roof is well-protected. Just a warning, since there wasn't much mention of the seriousness of the final independent finish. Roof also needs traffic as it was quite dirty but a classic finish.

Great vision by the first ascentionist. Full value and rewarding route. My favorite in the canyon to date. Nov 12, 2017