Elevation: 8,165 ft
GPS: 38.497, -106.948 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 165,276 total · 756/month
Shared By: Terry Fisher on Jul 27, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description

Living in Gunnnison, CO, I have noticed a peculiar absence of information on climbing in this area. The stellar climbing is often overshadowed by, of course, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. Located four miles outside of Gunnison, Hartman Rocks is a great area for those interested in a multi-sport environment. It is a multi-use area with miles of off-road and mountain bike trails, free camping, and of course great rock climbing. The rock is a granite, often compared to J-tree, bomber in most areas and loose and crumbly in others. All types of climbing can be done here; however, it has mostly bolted routes (5.5-5.12+), great bouldering in the V-easy to V-hard range, with a few trad cracks thrown in for good measure. Most routes can be accessed from the parking areas of the crags with anchors for top-ropes too. Some classics include Buddha's Belly, Tiger Stripe Wall, and Super Slabs. The climbing community has been putting up routes here for years, but new opportunity abounds. If you see a line you want to try, if it can't go clean, bolting is not frowned upon. Ammenities can be found in Gunnison ranging from a KOA campground to restaurants and even a hospital! lol Rock and Roll Sports in Gunnison is a great place for beta (free climbing guide), and local climbers are friendly and a great source for info.

Getting There

Gunnison is located on US 50 between Salida and Montrose. Heading west out of town on US 50 (Tomichi) you will see a sign for Hartman Rocks (if you cross a bridge you've gone too far.) The KOA campground is shortly on the right and after about 2 miles you will see the entrance to the park on the right. Stay on the dirt road going up a heavily washboarded hill. Once at the top make your second left and the crags are located on the left (east) side of the road. There are numerous different areas to climb at, the first prominent pulloff on the left being the Buddha's Belly Area.

198 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Hartman Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 11
White Lightning
Boulder
V3 6A R
 6
Water Groove
Boulder
V3 6A
 5
Madagascar
Boulder
V3 6A
 6
Straight Razor
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 7
Quarter Inch Master
Boulder
V3+ 6A+
 3
The Roof Crack
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Raleigh Arete
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
Devil's Spine aka Bajorn
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Watching in Silence
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Muffin Man
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 47
Buddha's Belly
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 38
Little Finger aka Penis Rock - S…
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 13
The Pink Nipple
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Laughing Buddha
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 12
Crystal Ship
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
White Lightning Bouldering Areas > White Lightning Area
 11
V3 6A Boulder
Water Groove Bouldering Areas > Kill Hill Bould… > Water Groove Area (to…
 6
V3 6A R Boulder
Madagascar Bouldering Areas > Stash
 5
V3 6A Boulder
Straight Razor Bouldering Areas > Stash
 6
V3 6A Boulder
Quarter Inch Master Bouldering Areas > Quarter Inch Master Area
 7
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
The Roof Crack Bouldering Areas > Roof Crack
 3
V3+ 6A+ Boulder
Raleigh Arete Bouldering Areas > Quarter Inch Master Area
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Devil's Spine aka Bajorn Beginner's Slab
 30
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Watching in Silence Rock 'N Roll Wall
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Muffin Man Slot
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Buddha's Belly Buddha's Belly Wall
 47
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Little Finger aka Penis Roc… Little Finger aka Pen…
 38
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Pink Nipple Super Slabs
 13
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Laughing Buddha Buddha's Belly Wall
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Crystal Ship Tiger Wall
 12
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Hartman Rocks »

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