Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches
FA: Holmgren, Matthews, Vandevere, 1982
Page Views: 9,117 total · 54/month
Shared By: Jon Hanlon on Sep 26, 2007
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Two magnificent pitches of wild stemming up a spooky black groove on the Balconies. Pitch one involves steep knob climbing between sometimes sparsely-placed bolts. An occasional knob can be tied off, but the steep crux comes between a gap in protection opportunities.

Pitch 2 requires more hip-cramping stemming up the water-hardened chute. This pitch is not to be missed.

As of 2020, all the bolts on the first pitch have been replaced as well a the last bolt on pitch 2. Some loose rock is present.

Location

Lava Falls can be found in the middle of the Balconies. The route starts in a stand of trees just uphill from the Smiling Simian. Follow the black gully that pinches off at the top.

Protection

11 bolts on the first pitch and 4 bolts on pitch 2. Quickdraws and full length runners for tying off knobs and clipping wandering bolts. Bolted anchors on both pitches.

Photos