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Routes in The Balconies
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Balconies- Regular Route T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Brosseau Finish, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Conduit to the Cosmos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Desperate Abandon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Electric Blue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Full Circle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gold Line T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Inn Crowd, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Knifeblade S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Knifeblade Direct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lava Falls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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No Sense of Measure S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Peregrine T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Powers That Be, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Premeditated T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3 |
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Shake-N-Bake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.50052, -121.20317 |
| FA: | Holmgren, Matthews, Vandevere, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 10,911 total · 49/month |
| Shared By: | Jon Hanlon on Sep 26, 2007 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
Two magnificent pitches of wild stemming up a spooky black groove on the Balconies. Pitch one involves steep knob climbing between sometimes sparsely-placed bolts. An occasional knob can be tied off, but the steep crux comes between a gap in protection opportunities.
Pitch 2 requires more hip-cramping stemming up the water-hardened chute. This pitch is not to be missed.
As of 2020, all the bolts on the first pitch have been replaced as well a the last bolt on pitch 2. Some loose rock is present.
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