Type: Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches
FA: Ed Webster 1984, FFA Roger Briggs/Topher Donahue, 2001
Page Views: 3,883 total · 73/month
Shared By: hkennedy on Jul 7, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Bright Star is a hidden gem and one of the more sustained 5.11+ routes on the Diamond. The climbing is high quality and offers some very unique face climbing throughout the entire route. I would say that Bright Star is much better than D7 or Ariana.

P1. 5.11+ R. From the left side of the Broadway Bivouac Cave, start by climbing steep jugs to obvious, thin crack. Bust some 5.11 moves to gain an obvious ledge, this section is a bit spicy. Easy climbing leads to a piton just below an obvious, thin splitter. Spicy 5.11+ laybacking leads to easier 5.11- terrain to a nice belay ledge with fixed slings on a block.

P2. 5.11. Varied crack climbing and face climbing with good protection, steep and very fun 5.11, lead to a fixed belay just below a bolted traverse that trends left.

P3. 5.11+. Amazing, left-trending face climbing protected by old bolts gains a steep flake system. At the top of the flake, an easier 5.10+ ramp trends left. Keep your eyes out for the final 5.11 traverse back and right to a fixed belay on a good ledge.

P4. 5.11+. Spicy climbing above the anchor in a offset crack gains more juggy, face climbing. Near the top of this pitch, trend back to the right to a two bolt anchor on a sloping ledge.

P5,. 5.11+. Clip two copperheads above the belay, and traverse right to more old bolts. A very cool crimp rail leads to a thin crack that splits the wall. Burly 5.11+ laybacking in a right-facing corner, dealing with all the vegetation, adds to the overall experience of this pitch. Belay on a big ledge, The Casual Route shares this same belay.

P6. 5.10. The "slot pitch" on The Casual Route that gains Table Ledge. Belay at the ledge on pitons and cams.

P7. 5.11+. Climb the plum line just above the belay with varied sizes. Weave left on face holds, and climb to the left side of the huge roof. Belay above the roof to the right on a comfy stance.

P8. 5.11. Cracks and corners lead to the summit.

Location

Bright Star starts just left of the Broadway Bivouac Cave, basically the next route to the right of The Yellow Wall.

Protection

Standard Diamond rack.

Photos