Avg: 4 from 3 votes
Routes in The Diamond
|Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3|
|Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Forrest Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Full Dunn-Westbay T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Obelisk, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches|
|FA:||Ed Webster 1984, FFA Roger Briggs/Topher Donahue, 2001|
|Page Views:||1,478 total, 88/month|
|Shared By:||hkennedy on Jul 7, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionBright Star is a hidden gem and one of the more sustained 5.11+ routes on the Diamond. The climbing is high quality and offers some very unique face climbing throughout the entire route. I would say that Bright Star is much better than D7 or Ariana.
P1. 5.11+ R. From the left side of the Broadway Bivouac Cave, start by climbing steep jugs to obvious, thin crack. Bust some 5.11 moves to gain an obvious ledge, this section is a bit spicy. Easy climbing leads to a piton just below an obvious, thin splitter. Spicy 5.11+ laybacking leads to easier 5.11- terrain to a nice belay ledge with fixed slings on a block.
P2. 5.11. Varied crack climbing and face climbing with good protection, steep and very fun 5.11, lead to a fixed belay just below a bolted traverse that trends left.
P3. 5.11+. Amazing, left-trending face climbing protected by old bolts gains a steep flake system. At the top of the flake, an easier 5.10+ ramp trends left. Keep your eyes out for the final 5.11 traverse back and right to a fixed belay on a good ledge.
P4. 5.11+. Spicy climbing above the anchor in a offset crack gains more juggy, face climbing. Near the top of this pitch, trend back to the right to a two bolt anchor on a sloping ledge.
P5,. 5.11+. Clip two copperheads above the belay, and traverse right to more old bolts. A very cool crimp rail leads to a thin crack that splits the wall. Burly 5.11+ laybacking in a right-facing corner, dealing with all the vegetation, adds to the overall experience of this pitch. Belay on a big ledge, The Casual Route shares this same belay.
P6. 5.10. The "slot pitch" on The Casual Route that gains Table Ledge. Belay at the ledge on pitons and cams.
P7. 5.11+. Climb the plum line just above the belay with varied sizes. Weave left on face holds, and climb to the left side of the huge roof. Belay above the roof to the right on a comfy stance.
P8. 5.11. Cracks and corners lead to the summit.