Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Diamond

Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Forrest Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Dunn-Westbay T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Obelisk, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade V
FA: Bruce Miller, Chris Weidner, August 26, 2010
Page Views: 9,654 total, 124/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jul 13, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Begin beneath the D1 Pillar, at a short, left-facing corner, about 20 feet left of the top of the North Chimney.

P1: Climb the corner, then wander up the D1 Pillar on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner. 5.6, 65m.

P2: Stem and jam the corner (p2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe right on a narrow ledge and belay at its right margin. 5.8, 15m (can be combined with p1).

P3: Climb cracks above the belay for 15 feet, then traverse right toward a large, left-facing corner. Climb the sustained hands and offwidth corner past a two-pin anchor. Belay on a good ledge at its top. 5.10a, 58m.

P4: Ascend the rotten, left-facing corner until it slabs out (about 130 feet). Traverse thirty feet left (5.8 R) to belay at the base of a small, right-facing corner (this is where Hearts and Arrows deviates from the Enos Mills Wall). The belay is about 50 feet below the massive right-facing corner that’s pitch five of the Enos Mills Wall. 5.10b, 50m.

P5: Balance left around the sharp arête that forms the corner. Climb left and up with difficulty past two bolts and a pin. Continue up cracks to a stance below a steep, right-facing corner (Jack of Diamonds p5). 5.11c, 15m.

P6: Jam and lieback the “Horrible Corner” to its top. Continue up a left-facing corner to a hanging belay (one bolt, one pin). 5.11a, 27m.

P7: Climb the arête and face (fixed pin and nut) above the belay (5.10- R) to Table Ledge crack. Climb left a few feet then straight up double cracks (crux), emphasizing the right crack. After climbing a short chimney, belay on top of a large, black flake 5.12b, 25m.

P8: Jam a difficult section above the belay, then continue up a solitary, overhanging crack (fingers to fists, 11b) to beneath a roof. Surmount the roof (10d) and belay at a stance just above. 5.11b, 30m.

P9: Face climb right into a left-facing corner with an offwidth – the last pitch of Enos Mills Wall. Struggle up the wide crack to the top of the Diamond. 5.9, 40m .

Location

Descend the North Face (Cables Route) of Long's Peak.

Protection

1 ea: Nuts, TCUs, #4 and #5 Camalot.
2 ea: #0.4-#3 Camalot.
3 ea: #1 and #2 Camalot.
WadeM
Golden, Co
 
WadeM   Golden, Co
 
^^^ nice Eric
"Of note, the rotten corners a lot better than it looks, but if you can, give it to your partner."

Great route, great position. Bottom of route will get better with more traffic. Top 4 pitches of straight in jamming make a great and memorable exit. Jul 25, 2016
ejesse
Colorado Springs
 
ejesse   Colorado Springs
 
The most secure of the full value climbs up the middle of the Diamond. It also climbs the fastest of the center routes with solid jams the whole way except the 2 bolt traverse. Once you get there, the last 4 pitches are mind blowing!

For the rotten corner P4, has anyone done/tried the finger crack just to the left? It's on solid rock and looked like 5.11. It disappears right at the slab which might make the last couple moves spicy. Of note, the rotten corner's a lot better than it looks, but if you can, give it to your partner. Jul 25, 2016
Noah McKelvin
Colorado Springs
  5.12b
Noah McKelvin   Colorado Springs
  5.12b
WOW! What a route!!!! That roof must be one of the highlights of my life. Jul 22, 2016
Tyler Rohr 2
Cambridge, MA
Tyler Rohr 2   Cambridge, MA
So good, this was my first route on the Diamond, and it could not been better! Although coming from Boston, I definitely got a taste of humble-altitude-pie by the last 3 pitches! Anyway, a few helpful notes.

1. Route finding with was very straightforward and pleasant with two very minor exceptions:

a. I think we ended up a little too high after pitch four, at the base of large, right-facing corner with some old fixed gear at the anchor. This was fine though as we just set up shop there (redirected though a high piece we put in the corner) then downclimbed maybe 10 feet and did the traverse. The downclimb for the follower is a little spicy, but if you use some of the old webbing to lower yourself off the ledge, it's fine.

b. We never really found the 'short chimney' on P7 and were worried we were too far left but everything else seemed to check out (double crack crux, transition into P8, etc.).

2. At the end of P6 to the left of the left-facing corner, there is a large flake system that you can transition to from the finger crack in the corner. If you transition too low though, there is a large (microwave-size) block on the left of the flake system that is basically just sitting there, ready to come tumbling down. We didn't huck it as there were parties below us, but it probably needs to go. Be careful!

Anyway, can't stress how awesome this experience was! AND THE P8 ROOF!
Thanks for putting it up! Jul 17, 2016
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Pretty sick route! Clean all the way. Jul 20, 2015
EDJ
Eldorado Springs, Colorado
EDJ   Eldorado Springs, Colorado
We did this route the day after heavy storms, and the wall was dripping wet. The climb was dry the whole way! An awesome classic! Aug 24, 2013
Cedar Wright  
 
WOW! I had the pleasure of repeating this with Joe Mills this week. What an awesome line! Props to Chris and Bruce for ferreting out a modern day free climbing classic. This is the best out of the five routes I have done on the Diamond so far. My thoughts.... The 10b "rotten" pitch is actually pretty cool and fun as you stem and jam through a wild crystal matrix. The 11c face traverse is incredibly classic, airy, exposed and I thought just as hard as the crux 12b pitch. It also feels like the point of no return, where the best way off is now up and over. You definitely need to be on your A-game for the 5.10R start to the 12b pitch! The last 11b pitch is INCREDIBLE, a burly splitter leads to a roof which looks to be 5.13 from below but succumbs at 5.10d! You belay for the final 5.9 offwidth at the lip of the roof in one of the most spectacular and exposed positions on the Diamond! Sustained, burly, and classic!!! Jul 5, 2012
Scott Bennett
  5.12b
Scott Bennett  
  5.12b
Great Route, nice find guys and huge thanks for putting it up!

Did it yesterday with my friend Rob, and we found the first two pitches (shared with D1) to be wet, but still easy. The whole middle portion of the route, and all the crux climbing, was in great shape. There were tickmarks everywhere, though, even on 5.10 terrain.

12b seemed right on for the crux pitch. Not sure if there were any moves as hard as 12a, but the whole package (p7 of sustained climbing at nearly 14k) adds up to a burly lead.

The final, OW pitch was seeping wet and slimy, and it didn't help that we led it during a hailstorm. It felt like the crux of the route!

Thanks again, and congrats on finding this gem right up the center of the big D!

-Scott Jul 19, 2011
Thanks, YDPL8S. I resubmitted a higher res topo – it's now legible. Jul 13, 2011
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Looks badass! Great photos. Maybe need to rescan topo, when I zoomed in, I couldn't read a thing.

Edit: Thanks! Jul 13, 2011