Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade V
FA: Bruce Miller, Chris Weidner, August 26, 2010
Page Views: 11,042 total · 115/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jul 13, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Begin beneath the D1 Pillar, at a short, left-facing corner, about 20 feet left of the top of the North Chimney.

P1. Climb the corner, then wander up the D1 Pillar on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner, 5.6, 65m.

P2. Stem and jam the corner (P2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe right on a narrow ledge and belay at its right margin, 5.8, 15m (can be combined with P1).

P3. Climb cracks above the belay for 15 feet, then traverse right toward a large, left-facing corner. Climb the sustained hands and offwidth corner past a two-pin anchor. Belay on a good ledge at its top, 5.10a, 58m.

P4. Ascend the rotten, left-facing corner until it slabs out (about 130 feet). Traverse thirty feet left (5.8 R) to belay at the base of a small, right-facing corner (this is where Hearts and Arrows deviates from the Enos Mills Wall). The belay is about 50 feet below the massive, right-facing corner that's pitch five of the Enos Mills Wall, 5.10b, 50m.

P5. Balance left around the sharp arête that forms the corner. Climb left and up with difficulty past two bolts and a pin. Continue up cracks to a stance below a steep, right-facing corner (Jack of Diamonds P5), 5.11c, 15m.

P6. Jam and lieback the "Horrible Corner" to its top. Continue up a left-facing corner to a hanging belay (one bolt, one pin), 5.11a, 27m.

P7. Climb the arête and face (fixed pin and nut) above the belay (5.10- R) to Table Ledge crack. Climb left a few feet then straight up double cracks (crux), emphasizing the right crack. After climbing a short chimney, belay on top of a large, black flake, 5.12b, 25m.

P8: Jam a difficult section above the belay, then continue up a solitary, overhanging crack (fingers to fists, 11b) to beneath a roof. Surmount the roof (10d) and belay at a stance just above, 5.11b, 30m.

P9: Face climb right into a left-facing corner with an offwidth, the last pitch of Enos Mills Wall. Struggle up the wide crack to the top of The Diamond, 5.9, 40m .

Location

Descend the North Face (Cables Route) of Long's Peak.

Protection

1 ea: Nuts, TCUs, #4 and #5 Camalot.
2 ea: #0.4-#3 Camalot.
3 ea: #1 and #2 Camalot.

Photos