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Hearts and Arrows
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 31
votes
Routes in The Diamond
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Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beethoven's Honeymoon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 |
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Dunn-Westbay Indirect T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Enos Mills Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2 |
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Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Forrest Finish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Free Grand Traverse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gambler's Fallacy T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Obelisk, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade V |
| FA: | Bruce Miller, Chris Weidner, August 26, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 15,958 total · 97/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Jul 13, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Begin beneath the D1 Pillar, at a short, left-facing corner, about 20 feet left of the top of the North Chimney.
P1. Climb the corner, then wander up the D1 Pillar on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner, 5.6, 65m.
P2. Stem and jam the corner (P2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe right on a narrow ledge and belay at its right margin, 5.8, 15m (can be combined with P1).
P3. Climb cracks above the belay for 15 feet, then traverse right toward a large, left-facing corner. Climb the sustained hands and offwidth corner past a two-pin anchor. Belay on a good ledge at its top, 5.10a, 58m.
P4. Ascend the rotten, left-facing corner until it slabs out (about 130 feet). Traverse thirty feet left (5.8 R) to belay at the base of a small, right-facing corner (this is where Hearts and Arrows deviates from the Enos Mills Wall). The belay is about 50 feet below the massive, right-facing corner that's pitch five of the Enos Mills Wall, 5.10b, 50m.
P5. Balance left around the sharp arête that forms the corner. Climb left and up with difficulty past two bolts and a pin. Continue up cracks to a stance below a steep, right-facing corner (Jack of Diamonds P5), 5.11c, 15m.
P6. Jam and lieback the "Horrible Corner" to its top. Continue up a left-facing corner to a hanging belay (one bolt, one pin), 5.11a, 27m.
P7. Climb the arête and face (fixed pin and nut) above the belay (5.10- R) to Table Ledge crack. Climb left a few feet then straight up double cracks (crux), emphasizing the right crack. After climbing a short chimney, belay on top of a large, black flake, 5.12b, 25m.
P8: Jam a difficult section above the belay, then continue up a solitary, overhanging crack (fingers to fists, 11b) to beneath a roof. Surmount the roof (10d) and belay at a stance just above, 5.11b, 30m.
P9: Face climb right into a left-facing corner with an offwidth, the last pitch of Enos Mills Wall. Struggle up the wide crack to the top of The Diamond, 5.9, 40m .
P1. Climb the corner, then wander up the D1 Pillar on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner, 5.6, 65m.
P2. Stem and jam the corner (P2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe right on a narrow ledge and belay at its right margin, 5.8, 15m (can be combined with P1).
P3. Climb cracks above the belay for 15 feet, then traverse right toward a large, left-facing corner. Climb the sustained hands and offwidth corner past a two-pin anchor. Belay on a good ledge at its top, 5.10a, 58m.
P4. Ascend the rotten, left-facing corner until it slabs out (about 130 feet). Traverse thirty feet left (5.8 R) to belay at the base of a small, right-facing corner (this is where Hearts and Arrows deviates from the Enos Mills Wall). The belay is about 50 feet below the massive, right-facing corner that's pitch five of the Enos Mills Wall, 5.10b, 50m.
P5. Balance left around the sharp arête that forms the corner. Climb left and up with difficulty past two bolts and a pin. Continue up cracks to a stance below a steep, right-facing corner (Jack of Diamonds P5), 5.11c, 15m.
P6. Jam and lieback the "Horrible Corner" to its top. Continue up a left-facing corner to a hanging belay (one bolt, one pin), 5.11a, 27m.
P7. Climb the arête and face (fixed pin and nut) above the belay (5.10- R) to Table Ledge crack. Climb left a few feet then straight up double cracks (crux), emphasizing the right crack. After climbing a short chimney, belay on top of a large, black flake, 5.12b, 25m.
P8: Jam a difficult section above the belay, then continue up a solitary, overhanging crack (fingers to fists, 11b) to beneath a roof. Surmount the roof (10d) and belay at a stance just above, 5.11b, 30m.
P9: Face climb right into a left-facing corner with an offwidth, the last pitch of Enos Mills Wall. Struggle up the wide crack to the top of The Diamond, 5.9, 40m .
Photos
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