Hearts and Arrows
Avg: 3.6 from 15 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||Bruce Miller, Chris Weidner, August 26, 2010|
|Page Views:||9,702 total · 122/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Weidner on Jul 13, 2011|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionBegin beneath the D1 Pillar, at a short, left-facing corner, about 20 feet left of the top of the North Chimney.
P1: Climb the corner, then wander up the D1 Pillar on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner. 5.6, 65m.
P2: Stem and jam the corner (p2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe right on a narrow ledge and belay at its right margin. 5.8, 15m (can be combined with p1).
P3: Climb cracks above the belay for 15 feet, then traverse right toward a large, left-facing corner. Climb the sustained hands and offwidth corner past a two-pin anchor. Belay on a good ledge at its top. 5.10a, 58m.
P4: Ascend the rotten, left-facing corner until it slabs out (about 130 feet). Traverse thirty feet left (5.8 R) to belay at the base of a small, right-facing corner (this is where Hearts and Arrows deviates from the Enos Mills Wall). The belay is about 50 feet below the massive right-facing corner thats pitch five of the Enos Mills Wall. 5.10b, 50m.
P5: Balance left around the sharp arête that forms the corner. Climb left and up with difficulty past two bolts and a pin. Continue up cracks to a stance below a steep, right-facing corner (Jack of Diamonds p5). 5.11c, 15m.
P6: Jam and lieback the Horrible Corner to its top. Continue up a left-facing corner to a hanging belay (one bolt, one pin). 5.11a, 27m.
P7: Climb the arête and face (fixed pin and nut) above the belay (5.10- R) to Table Ledge crack. Climb left a few feet then straight up double cracks (crux), emphasizing the right crack. After climbing a short chimney, belay on top of a large, black flake 5.12b, 25m.
P8: Jam a difficult section above the belay, then continue up a solitary, overhanging crack (fingers to fists, 11b) to beneath a roof. Surmount the roof (10d) and belay at a stance just above. 5.11b, 30m.
P9: Face climb right into a left-facing corner with an offwidth the last pitch of Enos Mills Wall. Struggle up the wide crack to the top of the Diamond. 5.9, 40m .