Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches
FA: Chris Weidner, Bruce Miller; August 2020
Page Views: 2,664 total · 66/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jun 15, 2021
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Begin beneath D1 Pillar at a short, left-facing corner about 20 feet left of the top of the North Chimney.

P1:  5.6 (65m). Climb the left-facing corner, then wander up the face on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner. The belay takes #1-4 Camalots.

Rack: all gear.

P2: 5.10a (30m). Stem and jam the corner (p2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe rightward on a narrow ledge. Face climb up and right, aiming for a large, left-facing corner. Gain a stance at its base, and belay at two pins (back up with small cams, nuts).

Rac : 1 each small cams, 2 each cams to #1 Camalot.

P3: 5.10a (45m). Jam and stem the hands to offwidth corner to a ledge with a fixed anchor (two nuts, one pin).

Rack: 1 each: RPs, all cams; 2 each #0.4-2 Camalots.

P4: 5.11a (40m). Ascend the attractive finger crack straight up from the belay until it peters out on ledgy terrain. Traverse left on edges beneath a wave of rock (5.7 R), then meander upward past a rotten hand crack to a large belay ledge beneath the giant corner (fixed nuts plus small cams). 

Rack : all gear except a #4 Camalot.

P5: 5.11d (30m). A tough boulder problem on shallow jams ends quickly at a big, sloping ledge beneath the corner proper. Battle the pump (and cold) up the Winter Wall Dihedral to a two-bolt hanging stance at its top.

Rack: all gear.

P6: 5.13b (10m). The Sport Pitch. Climb a short ways to a jagged roof, and reach left to clip the first bolt. Work around the arête, then power up the overhanging face past 3 more bolts to gain Table Ledge and a two-bolt anchor out left.

Rack: 2 each #0.75 Camalot (in roof), 4 quickdraws, *a kneepad proved useful on the FA.

P7: 5.12b (30m). Step right to engage the sustained, overhanging crack (often wet) past a small roof at three-quarters height. Finish rightward to a stance and two-bolt anchor.

Rack: all gear.

P8: 5.13a (25m). The Roof Pitch. Climb the crack and face up to a bolt, then crank over the roof (exposed!) past a second bolt out left. Follow the seam upward past a fixed nut to a belay ledge on the right with two bolts. Precarious. 

Rack: 1 each small-med cams, #2 Camalot, nuts; 2ea #0.75-1 Camalot.

P9: 5.12d (20m). Work up and right past 3 bolts (thin) to a finger crack splitting the blank wall. Follow this to a large ledge, then go up 5 more meters to belay at the top of the Diamond (one bolt, large nuts and/or mid-sized cams). 

Rack: 1 each #1 Metolius - #0.75 Camalot, nuts; 3 quickdraws.

Location Suggest change

Gambler's Fallacy frees the first 5 pitches of Enos Mills Wall (with the recent 4th pitch finger crack variation), then cuts left and up mostly new terrain to the top of the Diamond.

Protection Suggest change

Rack (M = Metolius; C = Camalot):

1 each: #0-1M, #3-4C, #4 RP - medium nuts.

2 each: #0.3C, large nuts.

3 each: #0.4C-2C.

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