Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches |
FA: | Chris Weidner, Bruce Miller; August 2020 |
Page Views: | 2,664 total · 66/month |
Shared By: | Chris Weidner on Jun 15, 2021 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
Begin beneath D1 Pillar at a short, left-facing corner about 20 feet left of the top of the North Chimney.
P1: 5.6 (65m). Climb the left-facing corner, then wander up the face on moderate terrain to a small ledge beneath a steep, right-facing corner. The belay takes #1-4 Camalots.
Rack: all gear.
P2: 5.10a (30m). Stem and jam the corner (p2 of D1) to its top, then tiptoe rightward on a narrow ledge. Face climb up and right, aiming for a large, left-facing corner. Gain a stance at its base, and belay at two pins (back up with small cams, nuts).
Rac : 1 each small cams, 2 each cams to #1 Camalot.
P3: 5.10a (45m). Jam and stem the hands to offwidth corner to a ledge with a fixed anchor (two nuts, one pin).
Rack: 1 each: RPs, all cams; 2 each #0.4-2 Camalots.
P4: 5.11a (40m). Ascend the attractive finger crack straight up from the belay until it peters out on ledgy terrain. Traverse left on edges beneath a wave of rock (5.7 R), then meander upward past a rotten hand crack to a large belay ledge beneath the giant corner (fixed nuts plus small cams).
Rack : all gear except a #4 Camalot.
P5: 5.11d (30m). A tough boulder problem on shallow jams ends quickly at a big, sloping ledge beneath the corner proper. Battle the pump (and cold) up the Winter Wall Dihedral to a two-bolt hanging stance at its top.
Rack: all gear.
P6: 5.13b (10m). The Sport Pitch. Climb a short ways to a jagged roof, and reach left to clip the first bolt. Work around the arête, then power up the overhanging face past 3 more bolts to gain Table Ledge and a two-bolt anchor out left.
Rack: 2 each #0.75 Camalot (in roof), 4 quickdraws, *a kneepad proved useful on the FA.
P7: 5.12b (30m). Step right to engage the sustained, overhanging crack (often wet) past a small roof at three-quarters height. Finish rightward to a stance and two-bolt anchor.
Rack: all gear.
P8: 5.13a (25m). The Roof Pitch. Climb the crack and face up to a bolt, then crank over the roof (exposed!) past a second bolt out left. Follow the seam upward past a fixed nut to a belay ledge on the right with two bolts. Precarious.
Rack: 1 each small-med cams, #2 Camalot, nuts; 2ea #0.75-1 Camalot.
P9: 5.12d (20m). Work up and right past 3 bolts (thin) to a finger crack splitting the blank wall. Follow this to a large ledge, then go up 5 more meters to belay at the top of the Diamond (one bolt, large nuts and/or mid-sized cams).
Rack: 1 each #1 Metolius - #0.75 Camalot, nuts; 3 quickdraws.
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