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Routes in The Diamond
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Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Beethoven's Honeymoon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3 |
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Dunn-Westbay Indirect T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Enos Mills Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2 |
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Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Forrest Finish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Free Grand Traverse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Gambler's Fallacy T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Obelisk, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, Alpine, 7 pitches |
| FA: | Goss & Kor, 1967 |
| Page Views: | 231 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Dakota from North Dakota on Jul 23, 2022 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This is a great adventure route mostly comprised of free climbing with a bit of aid at the end. This is the original line that both Hearts and Arrows and Gambler's Fallacy are basically free variations of. The only pitch with junky rock can be easily avoided, and all but the final two belays are on comfy ledges. Though rated A2, I wouldn't be surprised if this goes (or has already been done) all clean as I only placed a single piece of iron.
P1&2 - 5.5 & 5.9.
The first two pitches can be done many different ways. I opted to climb the first two pitches of D1; stopping at the base of the obvious, blocky pillar out right (fixed pins). The original start came up the North Chimney.
P3 - 5.10-,150 feet.
Climb the left side of the blocky pillar in a wide crack system. This is a great pitch! Belay on top of the pillar (fixed nut).
P4 - 5.10- or 5.11-, 130 feet.
Choose between crumbly corner (5.10-) or go straight up the finger crack(5.11-) in much better rock. Traverse left, and belay on the lower of two ledges in a corner (fixed nuts).
P5 - 5.11d or C2, 100 feet.
This is the unmistakable, right-facing dihedral with some awkward gear placements. It ends at a hanging belay on two new bolts.
P6 - A2, 150 feet.
Resist the temptation to A0 across the bolts of Gambler's Fallacy, and instead tackle a very short bit of A2 through a roof leading to Table "Ledge". Traverse left to another new two bolt anchor. Continue up the crack to a roof system, and use it to traverse left to a rusted quarter inch bolt (widest gear and/or thin hand cams for anchor). This pitch could probably go all clean, as I only used a single beak in the initial roof.
P7 - C2, 150 feet.
Aid straight up to the roof and through the offwidth above to the top of the wall. This pitch could likely be freed just fine. In fact, I wager that after pulling the roof it's easier to free climb the 5.9 offwidth than to aid it. If you do plan on aiding it, bring an extra #3, #4, & #5 to keep it C2.
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