Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 7 pitches
FA: Goss & Kor, 1967
Page Views: 231 total · 22/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Jul 23, 2022
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Closures Details


This is a great adventure route mostly comprised of free climbing with a bit of aid at the end. This is the original line that both Hearts and Arrows and Gambler's Fallacy are basically free variations of. The only pitch with junky rock can be easily avoided, and all but the final two belays are on comfy ledges. Though rated A2, I wouldn't be surprised if this goes (or has already been done) all clean as I only placed a single piece of iron.

P1&2 - 5.5 & 5.9.
The first two pitches can be done many different ways. I opted to climb the first two pitches of D1; stopping at the base of the obvious, blocky pillar out right (fixed pins). The original start came up the North Chimney.

P3 - 5.10-,150 feet.
Climb the left side of the blocky pillar in a wide crack system. This is a great pitch! Belay on top of the pillar (fixed nut).

P4 - 5.10- or 5.11-, 130 feet.
Choose between crumbly corner (5.10-) or go straight up the finger crack(5.11-) in much better rock. Traverse left, and belay on the lower of two ledges in a corner (fixed nuts).

P5 - 5.11d or C2, 100 feet.
This is the unmistakable, right-facing dihedral with some awkward gear placements. It ends at a hanging belay on two new bolts.

P6 - A2, 150 feet.
Resist the temptation to A0 across the bolts of Gambler's Fallacy, and instead tackle a very short bit of A2 through a roof leading to Table "Ledge". Traverse left to another new two bolt anchor. Continue up the crack to a roof system, and use it to traverse left to a rusted quarter inch bolt (widest gear and/or thin hand cams for anchor). This pitch could probably go all clean, as I only used a single beak in the initial roof.

P7 - C2, 150 feet.
Aid straight up to the roof and through the offwidth above to the top of the wall. This pitch could likely be freed just fine. In fact, I wager that after pulling the roof it's easier to free climb the 5.9 offwidth than to aid it. If you do plan on aiding it, bring an extra #3, #4, & #5 to keep it C2.


It is just right of center on the Diamond.


Doubles of #0.3-#3; single #4 & #5; micronuts; and a single Beak.


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