Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade V
FA: Phil Gruber and Brett Nelson
Page Views: 4,446 total · 40/month
Shared By: Brett Nelson on Mar 10, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Belay at 2 pitons, an old button head bolt and a slung flake at the top of the North Chimney.

Pitch 1: Climb the first 30 feet of the Queen of spades in an easy gully. After about 30 feet, traverse right 20 feet on a ramp. Place some gear in the crack (reachy) and climb the vertical crack for 25 feet to a sloping ramp belay (5.9+, 80 feet).

Pitch 2: Head up the fun hand crack for 180 feet, passing an old bolt belay at 90 feet, climb through the 2 foot wide gash on the left side of the green pillar and end on the most comfortable bivy ledge on the Diamond (5.10-, 180 feet).

Pitch 3: Climb from left to right up a ramp for 20 feet, and than step back left into a steep right facing finger and hand crack for about 50 feet. This is the left and cleaner of two parallel crack systems. When the crack ends at an old bolt, climb a few feet to the right passing 2 new bolts via steep face climbing and liebacking. Mantle up to a sloping ledge and a new 2 bolt belay (5.12, 100 feet).

Pitch 4: Lieback and stem the corner to the left of the belay past a piton and through a small roof. At the stance 20 feet above the roof, clip the abandoned belay and traverse left into a wide crack with some sugary rock. Climb up the wide crack for about 20 feet until you are level with a new bolt at climberÂ’s right. Clip the bolt and traverse right into the large left facing corner system clipping a second old button head on the way. Belay on a decent pedestal with 3 fixed pins (5.11 60 feet).

Pitch 5: Climb the amazing overhanging left facing corner system for 180 feet via thin hand jambs, liebacking, and offwidth. Belay at a hanging belay with a old bolt and fixed nut (5.11+, 180 feet).

Pitch 6: Climb up the wide crack for about 25 feet until it becomes possible to climb the crack system a few feet to the left. Climb the hands crack up to table ledge (which is a series of roofs on this part of the diamond). Climb though the Table Ledge roof via liebacking and insecure finger locks. After getting established above the roof, climb up another 10 feet and over to the next crack system to the left. Belay at a small stance on a flake (5.11+, 120 feet).

Pitch 7. Climb up the crack system to an old bolt and pin belay (5.11, 100 feet).

Pitch 8. Climb straight up from the belay through overlaps to a right-facing corner and up to the top of the Diamond. (5.11- 100 feet) The last three pitches are a half grade harder when wet, as was the case for our ascent.

Location

Full House is a new free line established in 2009 on the right side of the Diamond with great climbing, good rock, and good protection. The climb frees pitch 1 and 2 of Gear and Clothing, pitch 3 and 4 of La Dolce Vita, and then returns to Gear and Clothing for pitches 5 through 8. The climbing is steep and varied from face climbing to thin hands to offwidth. The best approach is The North Chimney.

Descent: rappel the cables route on the north side of Long's, then rappel the Chasm View rappels to Broadway, then walk south on Broadway to the lower east face rappels.

Protection

Recommended rack: Single set of nuts and tcus, double set of Camalots up to #3 with triples in #0.75 and #1 Camalots, single #4 and single #5 Camalot.

Photos