Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Lower East Face

Alexander's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack of Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Super Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Directagonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Endless Summer T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Fields' Chimney (summer) T
Grey Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Kor's Door T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Malander's Passage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
North Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Stettner's Ledges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Burns and Ervin, 1925
Page Views: 2,252 total, 137/month
Shared By: Mike Soucy on Jul 18, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The North Chimney, which splits the Lower East Face of Long's Peak, is the most commonly used route to access Broadway and The Diamond. It has a well-deserved reputation for loose rock is and has been the scene of numerous rockfall-related accidents. Carelessness and poor rope management have been the cause of most of these; consider soloing when possible, using shortened ropes when simul-climbing, and thoughtful pro to keep ropes from inadvertently trundling rocks. In general, use great care at all times keeping in mind there will almost always be parties underneath you.

The following description exists to familiarize climbers with routefinding in order to minimize rockfall:

1. Climb snow towards the bottom right edge of the obvious slab of the Lower East Face. Continue briefly up a snow tongue into the bottom of the chimney until you can easily transition left onto ledges at the base of the slab. The technical climbing starts here.

2. Follow cracks and short corners up the right edge of the slab for ~300'. There's a good belay stance at a pin at ~200'. Another shorter pitch leads to a loose ledge. Stop here and belay or direct your rope carefully to avoid the choss.

3. Stay left, climb a short bulge, and continue easily to a good stance at a large flake. A steep but moderate left-facing corner splits off left here; this is your third and final pitch up and left to Broadway. To be clear, leave the North Chimney at this corner, and climb out on the left wall. Continuing upwards yields worse rock quality and trickier route finding. Belay at the bottom of the D1 Pillar.

Location

Hike past Chasm Lake to Mill's Glacier. The North Chimney is directly underneath The Diamond and Broadway Ledge, just right of center. It follows the major, left-angling chimney and is above what is generally the highest reaching bit of snow on the face apart from the Lamb's Slide.

Take the opportunity to locate the route on a beta photo. Climbers frequently mistake Field's Chimney (which is to the left) for the North Chimney when up close and/or in the dark.

Protection

A light rack should suffice.

Photos

A good landmark for finding the third pitch traverse is a large (maybe 6' diameter) disc-shaped chockstone. Just above this wedged block, cut left up a steeper dihedral system into the exit pitch that Mike describes.

I'll try and remember to snap a photo of it next time I'm up there, but if anyone has one now, please post up. Jul 19, 2016