Avg: 0.7 from 47 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Burns and Ervin, 1925|
|Page Views:||5,833 total · 118/month|
|Shared By:||Mike Soucy on Jul 18, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
The following description exists to familiarize climbers with routefinding in order to minimize rockfall:
1. Climb snow towards the bottom right edge of the obvious slab of the Lower East Face. Continue briefly up a snow tongue into the bottom of the chimney until you can easily transition left onto ledges at the base of the slab. The technical climbing starts here.
2. Follow cracks and short corners up the right edge of the slab for ~300'. There's a good belay stance at a pin at ~200'. Another shorter pitch leads to a loose ledge. Stop here and belay or direct your rope carefully to avoid the choss.
3. Stay left, climb a short bulge, and continue easily to a good stance at a large flake. A steep but moderate left-facing corner splits off left here; this is your third and final pitch up and left to Broadway. To be clear, leave the North Chimney at this corner, and climb out on the left wall. Continuing upwards yields worse rock quality and trickier route finding. Belay at the bottom of the D1 Pillar.
Take the opportunity to locate the route on a beta photo. Climbers frequently mistake Field's Chimney (which is to the left) for the North Chimney when up close and/or in the dark.