Elevation: 14,256 ft
GPS: 40.255, -105.616 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 605,077 total · 3,689/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2006 with improvements by Dillon Warhall
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is one of the 54 14,000-foot peaks of Colorado. It is a prized playground for the budding hiker/mountaineer, the intermediate to advanced rock climber, the intermediate to advanced mixed/ice climber, the middle-altitude big wall aid climber; and it even sports a few high-end rock routes. Some still come to try to free some of the old aid routes here. Most adventures involve most of a day to a multi-day affair.

The peak itself consists of a variety of different subsections for which it may be more helpful to reorganize this section. There is the vertical arena of the Diamond, the Lower East Face, The Upper East Face, Chasm View Wall, the North Face/Ridge, The Southern Ridge(s), the West Face, Ship's Prow, Keyboard of the Winds, & The Palisades.

A hike up to the eastern cirque of Long's is probably one of the more scenic hikes in the Front Range.

Despite the popularity of the peak and the associated heavy travel, there are still plenty of loose rocks in here. Some have lost body parts to this. Be careful.

The weather here can be the crux. Often storms will surprise the unwary as it comes hidden by the bulk of the peak. Some have lost a few toes, some have lost more.

Getting off the peak can be an adventure in and of itself. There is the Keyhole route around the West side, the North Face scramble & rappel(s), the D7 rappels, and even Keplinger's Couloir.

Getting There

There are many ways to access this peak. This peak lies NW of Denver by 70 miles/1.5 hrs. From Denver, take US 36 to CO Hwy 7 in Lyons, and head N at the top of the canyon or US 36 into RMNP. Likely the most common is from CO Hwy 7, aka Peak-to-Peak Hwy, and the Long's Area trailhead. This approach will be at least 5 miles. You can approach via Glacier Gorge, Storm Pass, Boulder Brook/N Long's Peak Trail/Granite Pass, & even the Wild Basin entrance.

77 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long's Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 118
Cable Route
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 70
Keyhole Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 44
Kor's Door
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 460
Casual Route
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 106
Directissima
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Red Wall
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 44
Forrest Finish
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 236
Pervertical Sanctuary
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 49
Black Dagger
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
 68
Yellow Wall
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 23
The Obelisk
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 93
D7
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 56
Ariana
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 13
Babies R' Us
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Hearts and Arrows
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cable Route N Face/Ridge
 118
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
Keyhole Ridge N Face/Ridge
 70
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
Kor's Door Lower E Face
 44
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Casual Route Diamond
 460
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Directissima Chasm View Wall
 106
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Red Wall Chasm View Wall
 35
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Forrest Finish Diamond
 44
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Pervertical Sanctuary Diamond
 236
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Black Dagger Diamond
 49
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Yellow Wall Diamond
 68
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
The Obelisk Diamond
 23
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
D7 Diamond
 93
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Ariana Diamond
 56
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Babies R' Us Chasm View Wall
 13
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Hearts and Arrows Diamond
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Long's Peak »

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