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Areas in Long's Peak

Chasm View Wall 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 6
Diamond, The 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 19 / 19
Keyboard of the Winds 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7 / 7
Lower East Face 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 12
North Face/Ridge 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5 / 5
Palisades 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 1
Ship's Prow 11 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12 / 12
Upper East Face 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 2
West Face 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3

Description

This is the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is one of the 54 14,000-foot peaks of Colorado. It is a prized playground for the budding hiker/mountaineer, the intermediate to advanced rock climber, the intermediate to advanced mixed/ice climber, the middle-altitude big wall aid climber; and it even sports a few high-end rock routes. Some still come to try to free some of the old aid routes here. Most adventures involve most of a day to a multi-day affair.

The peak itself consists of a variety of different subsections for which it may be more helpful to reorganize this section. There is the vertical arena of the Diamond, the Lower East Face, The Upper East Face, Chasm View Wall, the North Face/Ridge, The Southern Ridge(s), the West Face, Ship's Prow, Keyboard of the Winds, & The Palisades.

A hike up to the eastern cirque of Long's is probably one of the more scenic hikes in the Front Range.

Despite the popularity of the peak and the associated heavy travel, there are still plenty of loose rocks in here. Some have lost body parts to this. Be careful.

The weather here can be the crux. Often storms will surprise the unwary as it comes hidden by the bulk of the peak. Some have lost a few toes, some have lost more.

Getting off the peak can be an adventure in and of itself. There is the Keyhole route around the West side, the North Face scramble & rappel(s), the D7 rappels, and even Keplinger's Couloir.
Seasonal Closures Details

Getting There

There are many ways to access this peak. This peak lies NW of Denver by 70 miles/1.5 hrs. From Denver, take US 36 to CO Hwy 7 in Lyons, and head N at the top of the canyon or US 36 into RMNP. Likely the most common is from CO Hwy 7, aka Peak-to-Peak Hwy, and the Long's Area trailhead. This approach will be at least 5 miles. You can approach via Glacier Gorge, Storm Pass, Boulder Brook/N Long's Peak Trail/Granite Pass, & even the Wild Basin entrance.

Webcam

http://www.nps.gov/common/commonspot/customcf/webcam/dsp_webcam_image.cfm?webCamURL=http://www.nps.gov/romo/photosmultimedia/webcams.htm

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Long's Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cable Route
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
The Beaver
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Keyhole Ridge
Trad, Alpine
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Kor's Door
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Casual Route
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Directissima
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Forrest Finish
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pervertical Sanctuary
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Dagger
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
The Obelisk
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Yellow Wall
Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
D7
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ariana
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Babies R' Us
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hearts and Arrows
Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
Cable Route N Face/Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine
The Beaver Upper E Face 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine
Keyhole Ridge N Face/Ridge 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
Kor's Door Lower E Face 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Casual Route Diamond 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Directissima Chasm View Wall 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Forrest Finish Diamond 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
Pervertical Sanctuary Diamond 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Black Dagger Diamond 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
The Obelisk Diamond 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Yellow Wall Diamond 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R Trad, Alpine 8 pitches
D7 Diamond 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Ariana Diamond 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Babies R' Us Chasm View Wall 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Hearts and Arrows Diamond 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Alpine 9 pitches
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Photos

Jralph  
If anyone goes up the Diamond via the North Chimney soon and finds a #1.5 (silver) Wild Country helium Friend about 20-30ft below the Broadway ledge in the North Chimney, I would greatly appreciate getting that back. My partner refused to take the time to take it out even after I put him on belay. I would hate to have to take the cost of that cam out of his flesh. I'm sure I could convince him to buy you a 6 pack of your favorite beer. Aug 19, 2014
I dropped an older generation Black Diamond Cobra ice tool off of Broadway somewhere around Kiener's route. It has the Android clipping leash (but obviously not the part that goes around your wrist). If you find it, please give me a call, I'd love to have it back. (970)412-0816. $100 reward! May 16, 2014
Jeremy Franz
Berthoud, CO
Jeremy Franz   Berthoud, CO
Webcam link has moved to: nps.gov/common/commonspot/c… Nov 11, 2013
Armin Colorado
Boulder, CO
Armin Colorado   Boulder, CO
Adam, was up there last Wednesday, and everything was wet to pouring on the routes, might be a little more dry now. I did Perverical, and it was the driest of all the routes within my partner and mine's abilities. Ariana looked drier if that's your grade. Cheers Aug 11, 2010
adam brink
Boulder, CO
adam brink   Boulder, CO
Has anyone been up on the Diamond lately and is willing to give a conditions report? The forecast has been way high for thunderstorms lately. Has it played out that way? Has it been wet? Thanks! Jul 27, 2010
beavs
Ft. Collins, CO
beavs   Ft. Collins, CO
Nice, thanks! Apr 21, 2010
Here's the Long's Peak webcam which shows the N Face:

ns.nps.gov.edgesuite.net/fe… Apr 13, 2010
beavs
Ft. Collins, CO
beavs   Ft. Collins, CO
Has anyone been up there recently? I'm curious about snow conditions on the north face - any useful info regarding a ski descent would be greatly appreciated. Apr 13, 2010
Help! Yesterday (8/28/09) we rapped in from Chasm View and left our packs on Broadway. After the route, my pack was missing and it appears that Marmots dragged it off of Broadway and sent it careening down the Crack of Delight area! I am missing the following:

Blue Granite Gear Pack
Red Marmot sleeping bag in red stuff sack
Yellow Dana Designs shelter
Leki Trekking Pole
Other misc. stuff

We searched for quite awhile down on Mills and could not find more than a couple of random items. Please call Aaron at 970-596-9041 if you have any ideas or saw the incident. My HUGE apologies if anybody was hit by anything. Aug 29, 2009
Chris O'Connor
boulder, co
Chris O'Connor   boulder, co
Conditions on the Diamond and in RMNP are available on Colorado Mountain School's web site totalclimbing.com under park conditions. Jun 26, 2007
Thinking of doing an overnight/full-moon ascent of the Cables Route, does anyone know of the snow conditions? Apr 5, 2007

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