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Routes in Lower East Face

Alexander's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack of Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Super Direct T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Directagonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Endless Summer T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Fields' Chimney (summer) T
Grey Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Kor's Door T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Malander's Passage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
North Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Stettner's Ledges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is the wide band of less-than-vertical rock which guards the upper faces (including the Diamond) of the E face of Long's Peak. Once this was a site of great adventures for the area. Now, it seems it is often relegated to consolation routes or approach pitches during warm weather. In a wet fall/winter, this area can sport some of the more impressive ice/mixed routes in the Front Range. Some parts of this section of Long's is subject to objective hazards like rock or ice fall. Also, due to the easterly aspect, this area is often in the shade by 1pm in the summer. In winter, only the upper and northern parts get any sun.

Some of the more impressive/popular routes here include: Alexander's Chimney, 5.5 or better M4; Kor's Dor, 5.9; Malander's Passage, 5.8+; Stettner's Ledges, 5.7++; Smear of Fear, M6; Diagonal Direct, 5.11c; The Diagonal, 5.11b AO; The Directagonal, 5.11b; Field's Chimney 5.7 or M7; Wrecking Ball, M6; Slippery People, M6+; Morning Dew, M7; & Crazy Train, M6.

Getting There

Most approach this area via the Long's Area trailhead with a hike to Chasm Lake, 4.5 mi., and then an additional bit to the rock. There is typically a section of snow (Mill's Glacier) to navigate which can be soft snow to dark, grey, hardened snow. Some will consider an ice axe useful.

Descent

You can use the 4 Crack of Delight rappels for routes on the right side of the Lower East Face. Note, that Crack of Delight rappels is South of the North Chimney. See
Crack of Delight rappel anchors just below the Casual Route, South of the North Chimney. . For more details, per Byron Murray: follow a small, but well-defined trail from the base of the Casual Route down through some talus, bending left to kind of a grassy ramp area. The trail terminates, and there may be a couple 4th class moves down a slot to a ledge. Bolts/chains on your left, maybe chest high. 1 short rap (single rope) to a huge ledge. 3 double rope raps from there, last one puts you halfway down the snowfield.

For routes on the left side of the Lower East Face, per Aaron Martinuzzi: Alexander's Chimney can be rappeled with a single 70m rope in 4 raps. I posted this on the page for Kor's Door, but am duplicating it here in the event someone's looking for recent rap beta.

Rap 1: From just below Broadway (2 pin, 1 nut anchor with slings) rappel 100ish feet to a slung horn/nut anchor.

Rap 2: Another 100+ feet from the large horn down the face, past a station, and behind a large, slung chockstone to a ledge.

Rap 3: From a small slung chockstone/nut anchor at the ledge, rappel over the edge and down the chimney. At a stance about ~118 feet down, carefully slide off the end your ropes (!!!) and clip some tat on a piton/I-beam-shaped-chock anchor on the north (climber's right) wall.

Rap 4: Keep rappelling down the chimney another 115 feet to ledge-y terrain. Stop near the end of the rope, clipping into a down-ward driven pin in a ledge at head height to pull and coil up your rope.

From here, descend right (north) down 4th class ledges, encountering a couple 5.0-5.2 steps along the way back to the bottom of Lamb's Slide. This line of descent climbs right below the Door, and so is a reasonable descent for those leaving gear at the bottom of the climb. These rappels could be completed easily with double 50s or 60s, and could be managed with a single 60m rope - there are many intermediate stations and fixed pins (keep your eyes open) along the chimney that could be utilized for making 100' rappels. If rappelling with one 60, bring some extra slings, rap rings, and maybe extra nuts to beef up some of manky stations along the chimney.

This rappel route is ideal for parties who a) don't want to haul a 2nd rope b) don't want to traverse Broadway to the Crack of Delight c) don't care to summit or d) choose to leave gear at the base of the Lower East Face. Be warned, though, the Chimney is very wet, and your rope will probably be sopping (mine was) no matter how hard you try to keep it out of the small waterfall.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Lower East Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 10
Alexander's Chimney
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 27
Stettner's Ledges
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 3
Malander's Passage
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 42
Kor's Door
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
 4
Directagonal
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
 6
Diagonal Super Direct
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Alexander's Chimney
 10
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Stettner's Ledges
 27
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Malander's Passage
 3
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Kor's Door
 42
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Directagonal
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Diagonal Super Direct
 6
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Lower East Face »

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DESCENT BETA: Alexander's Chimney can be rappeled with a single 70m rope in 4 raps. I posted this on the page for Kor's Door, but am duplicating it here in the event someone's looking for recent rap beta.

Rap 1: From just below Broadway (2 pin, 1 nut anchor with slings) rappel 100ish feet to a slung horn/nut anchor.
Rap 2: Another 100+ feet from the large horn down the face, past a station, and behind a large, slung chockstone to a ledge.
Rap 3: From a small slung chockstone/nut anchor at the ledge, rappel over the edge and down the chimney. At a stance about ~118 ft. down, carefully slide off the end your ropes (!!!) and clip some tat on a piton/I-beam-shaped-chock anchor on the north (climber's right) wall.
Rap 4: Keep rappelling down the chimney another 115 ft. to ledge-y terrain. Stop near the end of the rope, clipping into a down-ward driven pin in a ledge at head height to pull and coil up your rope.

From here, descend right (north) down 4th class ledges, encountering a couple 5.0-5.2 steps along the way back to the bottom of Lamb's Slide. This line of descent climbs right below the Door, and so is a reasonable descent for those leaving gear at the bottom of the climb. These rappels could be completed easily with double 50s or 60s, and could be managed with a single 60m rope - there are many intermediate stations and fixed pins (keep your eyes open) along the chimney that could be utilized for making 100' rappels. If rappelling with one 60, bring some extra slings, rap rings, and maybe extra nuts to beef up some of manky stations along the chimney.

This rappel route is ideal for parties who a) don't want to haul a 2nd rope b) don't want to traverse Broadway to the Crack of Delight c) don't care to summit or d) choose to leave gear at the base of the Lower East Face . Be warned, though, the Chimney is very wet, and your rope will probably be sopping (mine was) no matter how hard you try to keep it out of the small waterfall.

Edit: I finally did the traverse of Broadway from the top of the Yellow Bowl to beneath the Diamond, and highly recommend this wet rappel route over that traverse. Aug 16, 2009
Re: lower East Face descents: the North Chimney provides a good escape hatch from Broadway back to the talus.

In 1966, Pat Ament and I repeated the Diagonal; after a bivouac on Braodway we used the North Chimney descent route. It takes 2 ropes and 2 rappels to complete. Apr 17, 2011

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