Lower East Face Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2006 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Some of the more impressive/popular routes here include: Alexander's Chimney, 5.5 or better M4; Kor's Dor, 5.9; Malander's Passage, 5.8+; Stettner's Ledges, 5.7++; Smear of Fear, M6; Diagonal Direct, 5.11c; The Diagonal, 5.11b AO; The Directagonal, 5.11b; Field's Chimney 5.7 or M7; Wrecking Ball, M6; Slippery People, M6+; Morning Dew, M7; & Crazy Train, M6.
For routes on the left side of the Lower East Face, per Aaron Martinuzzi: Alexander's Chimney can be rappeled with a single 70m rope in 4 raps. I posted this on the page for Kor's Door, but am duplicating it here in the event someone's looking for recent rap beta.
Rap 1: From just below Broadway (2 pin, 1 nut anchor with slings) rappel 100ish feet to a slung horn/nut anchor.
Rap 2: Another 100+ feet from the large horn down the face, past a station, and behind a large, slung chockstone to a ledge.
Rap 3: From a small slung chockstone/nut anchor at the ledge, rappel over the edge and down the chimney. At a stance about ~118 feet down, carefully slide off the end your ropes (!!!) and clip some tat on a piton/I-beam-shaped-chock anchor on the north (climber's right) wall.
Rap 4: Keep rappelling down the chimney another 115 feet to ledge-y terrain. Stop near the end of the rope, clipping into a down-ward driven pin in a ledge at head height to pull and coil up your rope.
From here, descend right (north) down 4th class ledges, encountering a couple 5.0-5.2 steps along the way back to the bottom of Lamb's Slide. This line of descent climbs right below the Door, and so is a reasonable descent for those leaving gear at the bottom of the climb. These rappels could be completed easily with double 50s or 60s, and could be managed with a single 60m rope - there are many intermediate stations and fixed pins (keep your eyes open) along the chimney that could be utilized for making 100' rappels. If rappelling with one 60, bring some extra slings, rap rings, and maybe extra nuts to beef up some of manky stations along the chimney.
This rappel route is ideal for parties who a) don't want to haul a 2nd rope b) don't want to traverse Broadway to the Crack of Delight c) don't care to summit or d) choose to leave gear at the base of the Lower East Face. Be warned, though, the Chimney is very wet, and your rope will probably be sopping (mine was) no matter how hard you try to keep it out of the small waterfall.
Classic Climbing Routes at Lower East Face
Days w Precip