Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: the first six pitches done in 1991 by Greg Davis and Todd Bibler, ending 150 feet below Broadway. Roger Briggs & Chip Chace added the last pitch
Page Views: 1,781 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bob Rotert on Jul 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

P1. Start from Mill's Glacier in a series of right-facing corners, below the left end of the big wet arches. Move up and left to a splitter crack up the center of a small pinnacle. Belay at a small stance at its top. A bolt would be nice here, 5.10-.

P2. Follow the obvious seams up and right. Fixed copperheads, pins, and a few bolts mark the way. Go to a 2-bolt belay, 5.11b.

P3. Traverse right, then up, then right, then up, aiming for small corners. Some wet streaks will be crossed. End with a wet corner to a 2-bolt belay, 5.10.

P4. Follow the easiest line, mostly straight up, to a large area of 2nd class ledges. Belay below the left facing system of corners above, 5.8 - 5.9.

P5. Move up the left-facing corners past several fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay, 5.11b (R).

P6. Go straight up, passing the cool crescent arch, to a 2-bolt belay, 5.11b.

P7. One #0.75 Camalot is the largest piece you need (or can place) on this pitch. Climb up past an old bolt then move left with gear under the overlap flakes. The technical crux is here, moving up and left to a good crack (5.12-). Follow the crack until it ends (5.9), then pass two bolts (5.11). Run it out to a fixed Alien (5.11c), then move right. Run it out (5.11a) to a nice crack that ends on Broadway with a 2-bolt belay.

Descend from these anchors with 3 raps to the big ledges. Then scramble (belay suggested) 100 feet down and north to 2-bolt anchor, then do 3 more raps to Mill's Glacier. It'’s very easy to descend from any of the last three pitches of the climb because the belay bolts are also the rap anchors.

Location

The lower half of the climb starts left of, and stays above, the huge wet arches that dominate the lower wall.

Protection

Rack: wires: #2 micro – large stoppers (one set); Aliens (or equivalent): 3 x purple, 3 x blue, 3 x green, 2 x yellow; and Camalots (or equivalent): 2 x #0.5, 2 x #0.75, 2 x #1, 1 x #2, 1 x #3.

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