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Routes in Lower East Face

Alexander's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack of Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Super Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Directagonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Endless Summer T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Fields' Chimney (summer) T
Grey Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Kor's Door T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Malander's Passage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
North Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Stettner's Ledges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: established by Roger Briggs & Chip Chace
Page Views: 1,405 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bob Rotert on Jul 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Here's how to find it: it's between The Notch/Kiener's Couloir and the nasty snowfield that dips down below the Diamond, perhaps 100 feet south of where the Diagonal Direct finishes. This is a very wide part of Broadway with lots of rubble.  Look for TRIPLE bolts very high on Broadway. These are a rescue anchor for the Park, or for early season/ winter when there's snow on Broadway.  The first rap anchor is directly below these, maybe 40 feet, just where the wall drops off. This is also the belay for the last pitch of Endless Summer.

Do 3 raps down to a big ledgy area, then scramble 100 feet down (north) to double bolts, then do 3 more raps to Mill's Glacier. You do need two 60 meter ropes.

Location

It's between The Notch/Kiener's Couloir and the nasty snowfield that dips down below]] the Diamond, perhaps 100 feet south of where the Diagonal Direct finishes. This is a very wide part of Broadway with lots of rubble. Look for TRIPLE bolts very high on Broadway. These are a rescue anchor for the Park, or for early season/ winter when there's snow on Broadway. The first rap anchor is directly below these, maybe 40 feet, just where the wall drops off.

Protection

You do need two 60 meter ropes.

Photos

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Luke Clarke
Golden
Luke Clarke   Golden
Has anyone tried this who has also rapped Alexander's Chimney? I'd be interested in a comparison. Did Alexander's as the descent from Kor's Door Monday, and I would prefer something with less water, loose rock and ice on it. I know it's an alpine climb but.... Sep 7, 2011
Willow Toso
Salt Lake City, UT
Willow Toso   Salt Lake City, UT
The 100 foot scramble is down and across a narrow, unprotected ledge system. You are totally exposed and we experienced rock fall when we were on it. I was absolutely terrified. Just FYI if you do this descent. Nov 9, 2008