Avg: 3.4 from 39 votes
Routes in Lower East Face
|Alexander's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Crack of Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Diagonal Super Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13|
|Directagonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R|
|Endless Summer T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Fields' Chimney (summer) T|
|Grey Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R|
|Kor's Door T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Malander's Passage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|North Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c|
|Stettner's Ledges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Kor and Hough, 1958|
|Page Views:||14,773 total, 79/month|
|Shared By:||slevin on Jul 13, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionKor's Door climbs the clean buttress just left of Stettner's Ledges in 3-5 pitches of exquisite crack climbing on perfect alpine rock. This is a great route at the 5.9 grade, well-protected, secure, and interesting. The rock quality is flawless from bottom to top.
From the broad basin at Mill's Glacier head to the broken Class 4 ledge systems right of Lamb's Slide. Wear a helmet, and if crossing below The Notch area move quickly since rocks come whizzing by here all the time. You will most likely have to cross some snow and/or ice to reach the toe of the buttress. Once on the broken buttress, you are shielded from rockfall. Scramble up the buttress to a perfect grassy ledge below the obvious rectangular inset with a large flake poised at it's lower left. The perfect diagonal crack to your right is Malander's Passage.
Pitch 1. Move up and right, heading for the crack and corner system on the right side of the inset. You will pass the large detached flake on your left. Climb through a small roof at a handcrack (5.9-), and belay 30 or so feet higher at a small stance.
Pitch 2. Continue up the crack past several fixed pins through a second small roof. There is an optional belay on the left. With a 60m rope you can continue up and right into a thin right-facing corner to a ledge and belay. You can even move to a higher ledge, and the end of the steep climbing, in a single 60m pitch.
Pitch 3. Many ways to exit. Move into the large. right-facing corners on the right (you are now on Stettner's), and continue to Broadway with a bit of simul-climbing.
Head right on Broadway, and cross below the Notch to hit Kiener's and the route to the summit. If you don't want to go up and over Long's, descend Lamb's Slide (ice axe/crampons required); rappel Alexander's Chimney; or rappel Crack of Delight below the Diamond (2 ropes, ice axe/crampons may be necessary to get across snow below Obelisk - this can be sketchy with loose rock so not recommended).
If you want to avoid the simul-climbing and climb shorter pitches, no problem, there are plenty of places to stop and belay. This would result in about 5 pitches of climbing to reach Broadway.
One strategy for this climb is to go light, one rope, a light rack, and each climber carry a light pack. Once on Broadway, put on your approach shoes and pack away the gear (although you may want to keep the rope out for the first 150 feet of Kiener's) and shoot for the top.