Crack of Delight
Avg: 1.4 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Layton Kor and Tex Bossier, 1963|
|Page Views:||5,581 total · 29/month|
|Shared By:||Julian Smith on Aug 31, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe Crack of Delight is located just to the left of the North Chimney on the East face of Longs Peak. Though it has some wet spots and moss in the cracks, overall it is a good climb that throws a variety of situations at the climber. Since it is the rappel route form Broadway, be careful of others throwing ropes and the occasional rock down the route. It is sustained for its grade.
Pitch 1 - Locate a right facing corner immediately to the left of the North Chimney. Climb the corner as it changes from right to left facing and belay at a two bolt belay to the left of the wide crack. 5.7 150 feet
Pitch 2 - More of the same. Continue up the left facing corner until it turns back into a larger right facing corner. Move up and to the left out of the corner system and into a chimney on the left. Belay at a two bolt belay. 5.7 180 feet
Pitch 3 - Continue up the chimney system and climb above it to another two bolt belay. 5.7 190 feet
Pitch 4 - A move through a wide crack to the left of the belay leads to an easy scramble up to Broadway. Belay at a two bolt belay. This is the top station for the rappel route. 5.3 100 feet
Note that Rossiter's guide gives this route 5 pitches, with a 5.7 variation on the last pitch. The route can be comfortably done if 4 pitches with a 200 foot rope. Enjoy.