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Routes in Lower East Face
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Alexander's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crack of Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Diagonal Super Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Directagonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Endless Summer T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Fields' Chimney (summer) T |
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Grey Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Kor's Door T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Malander's Passage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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North Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Stettner's Ledges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Layton Kor and Tex Bossier, 1963 |
| Page Views: | 6,493 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Julian Smith on Aug 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures March 1-July 31. Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures occur in March and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
Description
The Crack of Delight is located just to the left of the North Chimney on the East face of Long's Peak. Though it has some wet spots and moss in the cracks, overall it is a good climb that throws a variety of situations at the climber. Since it is the rappel route form Broadway, be careful of others throwing ropes and the occasional rock down the route. It is sustained for its grade.
Pitch 1. Locate a right-facing corner immediately to the left of the North Chimney. Climb the corner as it changes from right- to left- facing, and belay at a three bolt belay to the left of the wide crack, 5.7, 150 feet.
Pitch 2. Do more of the same. Continue up the left-facing corner until it turns back into a larger, right-facing corner. Move up and to the left out of the corner system and into a chimney on the left. Belay at a three bolt belay, 5.7, 180 feet.
Pitch 3. Continue up the chimney system, and climb above it to another three bolt belay, 5.7, 190 feet.
Pitch 4. A move through a wide crack to the left of the belay leads to an easy scramble up to Broadway. Belay at a three bolt belay. This is the top station for the rappel route, 5.3, 100 feet.
Note that Rossiter's guide gives this route 5 pitches with a 5.7 variation on the last pitch. The route can be comfortably done if 4 pitches with a 200 foot rope. Enjoy.
Pitch 1. Locate a right-facing corner immediately to the left of the North Chimney. Climb the corner as it changes from right- to left- facing, and belay at a three bolt belay to the left of the wide crack, 5.7, 150 feet.
Pitch 2. Do more of the same. Continue up the left-facing corner until it turns back into a larger, right-facing corner. Move up and to the left out of the corner system and into a chimney on the left. Belay at a three bolt belay, 5.7, 180 feet.
Pitch 3. Continue up the chimney system, and climb above it to another three bolt belay, 5.7, 190 feet.
Pitch 4. A move through a wide crack to the left of the belay leads to an easy scramble up to Broadway. Belay at a three bolt belay. This is the top station for the rappel route, 5.3, 100 feet.
Note that Rossiter's guide gives this route 5 pitches with a 5.7 variation on the last pitch. The route can be comfortably done if 4 pitches with a 200 foot rope. Enjoy.
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