Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Layton Kor and Tex Bossier, 1963
Page Views: 6,493 total · 31/month
Shared By: Julian Smith on Aug 31, 2002 with improvements by Gregger Man
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Crack of Delight is located just to the left of the North Chimney on the East face of Long's Peak. Though it has some wet spots and moss in the cracks, overall it is a good climb that throws a variety of situations at the climber. Since it is the rappel route form Broadway, be careful of others throwing ropes and the occasional rock down the route. It is sustained for its grade.

Pitch 1. Locate a right-facing corner immediately to the left of the North Chimney. Climb the corner as it changes from right- to left- facing, and belay at a three bolt belay to the left of the wide crack, 5.7, 150 feet.

Pitch 2. Do more of the same. Continue up the left-facing corner until it turns back into a larger, right-facing corner. Move up and to the left out of the corner system and into a chimney on the left. Belay at a three bolt belay, 5.7, 180 feet.

Pitch 3. Continue up the chimney system, and climb above it to another three bolt belay, 5.7, 190 feet.

Pitch 4. A move through a wide crack to the left of the belay leads to an easy scramble up to Broadway. Belay at a three bolt belay. This is the top station for the rappel route, 5.3, 100 feet.

Note that Rossiter's guide gives this route 5 pitches with a 5.7 variation on the last pitch. The route can be comfortably done if 4 pitches with a 200 foot rope. Enjoy.

Protection

Bring a standard RMNP rack with a few bigger pieces thrown in. Don't forget the small stuff. Take two ropes if you intend to rappel from Broadway.

Photos