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Routes in Lower East Face

Alexander's Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crack of Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Diagonal Super Direct T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Directagonal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R
Endless Summer T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Fields' Chimney (summer) T
Grey Pillar T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Kor's Door T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Malander's Passage T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
North Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Rap Descent from Top of Lower East Face T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Stettner's Ledges T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Layton Kor and Tex Bossier, 1963. FFA: John Bragg and Bill Briggs, 1978
Page Views: 166 total, 10/month
Shared By: Kishen Mangat on Jun 27, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

We climbed this route in late June 2016. It does not appear to see much action. Twelve years prior my partner had linked Grey Pillar into Yellow Wall for a complete alpine tour of The Diamond. We were too slow to repeat the link up due to the Gray Pillar being very wet in late June. This is definitely type 2 fun.

Pitch 1 – climb a fun and varied crack to a two-bolt anchor with slings. There is some loose rock, 5.9, 150 feet.

Pitch 2 – launch into a challenging and runout offwidth. It is possible to place cams in cracks inside the offwidth. It seemed hard for 5.8+. At the top of the offwidth, move left across 5.9 R face climbing to the base of a large, left-facing dihedral, 150 feet.

Pitch 3 – climb the dihedral to a vertical / overhanging wall. Make moves on variable rock through the overhanging section to a stance at the base of a large roof, 5.10, 150 feet.

Pitch 4 – climb through the crux roof band or climb 5.10 R around and to the left of the roof. Above the roof, continue on sparsely protected and somewhat loose crack climbing. The roof was a waterfall when we climbed it and required direct aid. Don’t go too early in the season if you see snow above the climb, 5.11-, 120 feet.

Pitch 5 – ascend enjoyable 5.7 crack climbing to Broadway, 200 feet.

Descent: you will reach Broadway above (to the south) of Pervertical Sanctuary. Getting over to main Broadway and the Crack of Delight rappels is non-trivial, especially if there is snow as there was for us in late June. If there is no snow, then Crack of Delight is the preferred route. Another option is the Endless summer rappels, to the south or looker's left, which involves six double rope rappels (all new two bolt anchors). This should only be used when required due to rock fall caused by traversing Broadway to the east. On the Endless Summer rappel, you have to down climb to skiers left after third rappel - this is very exposed. Be aware of rockfall on this rappel route.

Location

The route is located between Directagonal and Fields' Chimney. Locate two parallel cracks in the face. Grey Pillar starts in the right of the two parallel cracks.

Protection

Single set to #4 with extra hands.

Photos

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