Avg: 3.8 from 348 votes
Routes in The Diamond
|Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3|
|Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13|
|Forrest Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Full Dunn-Westbay T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a|
|King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Obelisk, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Duncan Ferguson, Chris Reveley|
|Page Views:||159,214 total, 771/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Wellman on Dec 31, 2000|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAn incredible climb at high altitude on the most famous wall in Colorado. This is the easiest route on the Diamond, but that doesn't mean it's not world class. The route includes incredible climbing with awesome exposure and high alpine weather. Although I have heard the route described as both stiff, and easy for the grade, I think that the published ratings are quite accurate.
P1: Start in the middle of the wall at a less than vertical broken pillar. It is not hard to find. Pitch 1 is 5.4 up broken ground to the bottom of an obvious crack.
P2: Follow the steeper crack at 5.9 to a hanging belay 2/3 of the way up.
P3: A 100 foot 5.7 traverse with about three pieces of pro, two of which are fixed pins. This pitch is spectacular and has dangerous fall potential, although the climbing is easy.
P4: Climb up a dirty 5.8 crack and chimney to a belay about half way up the route.
P5: May be the best pitch of the climb. It leads up a steep 5.8 dihedral with a handcrack tucked in the corner. Belay halfway up the dihedral on a stance and continue up 5.8 to the Yellow Wall Bivy Ledge. The exposure hits you right here for the final, and crux, pitch.
P6: Climb up a really thin 5.9 crack with fixed gear to a 5.8 squeeze chimney. Trying to squirm your way up the chimney at 14,000 feet is about as strenuous as it gets. From here pull out of the chimney and perform the crux move, a well protected reach over a bulge on thin holds, 5.10a, and you're on Table Ledge.
P7: One last 5.7 traverse pitch leads to the exit onto Kiener's or the rap route.