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Routes in Chasm View Wall
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Babies R' Us T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chasm View Cutoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Directissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Invisible Wall T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Red Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sharp on Both Ends T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FA: Kor and LaGrange, 1960 FFA: R. Briggs and Reveley, 1974 |
| Page Views: | 25,080 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
A great three pitch on Chasm View Wall, NOT on the Diamond. A good training route for the more committing lines of the Diamond, takes significantly less time to approach and descend (depending on descent taken). Approach Mills Glacier but instead of climbing the North Chimney to Broadway continue North on the glacier. Scramble up easy grassy ledges to beneath the middle of Chasm View Wall. Continue up and right to the bottom of an obvious grassy ledge beneath the right facing dihedral.
P1: Climb the inside of the corner to a belay on a flake below a small slot/roof above (5.7-5.8). (If you climb outside flakes further to the right you will be in 5.9-10d terrain).
P2: Climb up through the slot and lieback and jam to another stance before another flake (5.9).
P3: Lieback up the flake and into a a 9+ squeeze protected by a couple bolts. Climb easier terrain past flakes to a belay ledge below the final pitch.
P4: Climb up the widish crack to the crux overlap/roof, keep the grin on your face as you ascend the clean crack to the top (5.10a). This pitch isn't THAT wide. A single span of Camalots to #4 seemed adequate, doubles would be more than adequate. It's an abrupt feeling as you top out onto the horizontal terrain at the edge of the Boulderfield. One can continue via the N. Face at Chasm View or...
Three descent options: 1) Boulderfield trail, 2) Chasm View and Broadway/North Chimney Raps or 3) Camel slide (look to the East for a large block that resembles a kneeling camel on the ridge between Chasm View proper and Mt. Lady Washington. Go south towards the Camel and work down and east across the slopes of Mt. Lady Washington to grassy ledges at the head of a scree gully. Follow the gully SW into the Chasm Lake cirque).
P1: Climb the inside of the corner to a belay on a flake below a small slot/roof above (5.7-5.8). (If you climb outside flakes further to the right you will be in 5.9-10d terrain).
P2: Climb up through the slot and lieback and jam to another stance before another flake (5.9).
P3: Lieback up the flake and into a a 9+ squeeze protected by a couple bolts. Climb easier terrain past flakes to a belay ledge below the final pitch.
P4: Climb up the widish crack to the crux overlap/roof, keep the grin on your face as you ascend the clean crack to the top (5.10a). This pitch isn't THAT wide. A single span of Camalots to #4 seemed adequate, doubles would be more than adequate. It's an abrupt feeling as you top out onto the horizontal terrain at the edge of the Boulderfield. One can continue via the N. Face at Chasm View or...
Three descent options: 1) Boulderfield trail, 2) Chasm View and Broadway/North Chimney Raps or 3) Camel slide (look to the East for a large block that resembles a kneeling camel on the ridge between Chasm View proper and Mt. Lady Washington. Go south towards the Camel and work down and east across the slopes of Mt. Lady Washington to grassy ledges at the head of a scree gully. Follow the gully SW into the Chasm Lake cirque).
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