Avg: 3.5 from 99 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||FA: Kor and LaGrange, 1960 FFA: R. Briggs and Reveley, 1974|
|Page Views:||17,279 total · 84/month|
|Shared By:||Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionA great three pitch on Chasm View Wall, NOT on the Diamond. A good training route for the more committing lines of the Diamond, takes significantly less time to approach and descend (depending on descent taken). Approach Mills Glacier but instead of climbing the North Chimney to Broadway continue North on the glacier. Scramble up easy grassy ledges to beneath the middle of Chasm View Wall. Continue up and right to the bottom of an obvious grassy ledge beneath the right facing dihedral.
P1: Climb the inside of the corner to a belay on a flake below a small slot/roof above (5.7-5.8). (If you climb outside flakes further to the right you will be in 5.9-10d terrain).
P2: Climb up through the slot and lieback and jam to another stance before another flake (5.9).
P3: Lieback up the flake and into a a 9+ squeeze protected by a couple bolts. Climb easier terrain past flakes to a belay ledge below the final pitch.
P4: Climb up the widish crack to the crux overlap/roof, keep the grin on your face as you ascend the clean crack to the top (5.10a). This pitch isn't THAT wide. A single span of Camalots to #4 seemed adequate, doubles would be more than adequate. It's an abrupt feeling as you top out onto the horizontal terrain at the edge of the Boulderfield. One can continue via the N. Face at Chasm View or...
Three descent options: 1) Boulderfield trail, 2) Chasm View and Broadway/North Chimney Raps or 3) Camel slide (look to the East for a large block that resembles a kneeling camel on the ridge between Chasm View proper and Mt. Lady Washington. Go south towards the Camel and work down and east across the slopes of Mt. Lady Washington to grassy ledges at the head of a scree gully. Follow the gully SW into the Chasm Lake cirque).