Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: Kor & Bossier, 1963
Page Views: 8,374 total · 42/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 12, 2004 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

Red Wall is one of the two major lines on Chasm View Wall. While it has some quality climbing, it also has a lot of ledgey terrain and, particulary at the top, loose crap. It is probably a good climb if you've done everything else in the area, but I think the Casual Route is a way better climb at the grade (and not too much longer).

Approach: from Chasm Lake, you can clearly identify the long 5.7 ramp of the first pitch and the 10c dihedral/pillar above. Actually, you can pretty much see every pitch. Scramble in from the left up 4th Class ledges to the very base of the first pitch - there is a big, grassy ledge here. If you stop any sooner, you'll probably end up having to simul-climb some to reach the first belay.

P1 (200'): climb a long, exposed, left-trending ramp (5.7) to a ledge at the base of a nice finger crack in an obvious right-facing dihedral. Depending on your choice of second pitches, belay here at a ring pin, or step left around the corner, walk along a narrow ledge, and belay at below a small roof and perfect hand crack in a second right-facing corner. This is a long pitch.

P2 option 1 (5.10c/d): this is the first option you come to. Take the striking finger crack up the gradually-steepening corner. Belay up and left.

P2 option 2 (5.8, 100'): around the corner, take the really nice hand crack for 30 feet, then continue up a strange dihedral/chimney for another 25 feet.

P3 (5.9, 80'): this is the rumored "death flake" pitch. Climb up and left off the belay and up into a six-inch crack that is formed by the margins of two huge flakes. Both of these flakes are hollow, but neither felt like they were "about to go." Nevertheless, I kept my pro in the left (and better of the two). Climb these flakes with combinations of jamming and liebacking (all very secure), and then stand up onto the top of the righthand flake: this is perhaps the scariest moment - the flake is approximately 45' high, 8' wide, and 1-2' thick, and only attached at its base. Historically the belay is from slings around the top of this flake and a 1/4" bolt above, but I avoided tying myself to such a massive piece of granite by not clipping the slings and climbing another 15 feet up to a nice stance in a small, right-facing corner. Here you can belay off a knifeblade pin, a second 1/4 bolt, and bomber wires. All in all probably, it is 5.9.

P4 (5.10-, 90'): head up the shallow, right-facing corner to the left-hand edge of a very obvious roof, and perform a difficult move stepping right and up under the roof. There is one more difficult sequence involving underclings and a stem out right. The hanging belay off fixed wires at the right end of the roof feels kinda like cheating - you're sort of still in the last throws of the crux section - but what can ya do? This is a short pitch.

P5 (5.10-, 150'): Pull the roof, and go up a difficult and continuous right-facing corner. Climb all the way up to a big loose ledge in the black band at the top of Chasm View Wall, 5.10-. Per Doug Haller: from the belay, use the thin hand crack and roof to stem and climb past your partner. Step left to a crack with a wide base which quickly narrows to thin fingers. Make crack and slab moves to gain a small ledge. Continue up the corner using flakes, intermittent cracks, and  face holds to the base of a small roof. Clip the pin above the roof. Make moves right to gain a ledge under a larger roof. Move right past an old bolt to a V-slot. Climb that to the ledges above which indicate the start of Chasm Cutoff.

P6 (4th, 100'): Traverse right for 100'. Belay almost at the very end of the ledge below a left-facing dihedral with a crack in the upper half. This is 4th Class but exposed and loose in one spot.

P7: Climb up the corner to the start of the crack, then traverse right for 35' on positive foot ledges and jugs. Continuing straight up the crack is supposedly 9+, heading right is 5.6ish.

Protection

SR.

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