Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chasm View Wall

Babies R' Us T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Chasm View Cutoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Directissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Invisible Wall T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Red Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sharp on Both Ends T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bill Eubank, Tom Hornbein, and Brad Van Diver, 1950
Page Views: 1,493 total · 29/month
Shared By: Mark Oveson on Jun 29, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a fun, moderate adventure route that lets you experience the exposure of Chasm View Wall without the more difficult climbing that is otherwise typical of the area. The route follows the black rock band and ledge that traverses across the upper wall.

Chasm View Cutoff consists mostly of 4th- and lower 5th-class climbing. Other than the final pitch, only a few moves are 5.4 or harder. On the final pitch, a few moves are 5.7 and most of the rest of the pitch is easier. If you are looking for hundreds of feet of sustained climbing, this is not your route. If you are looking for wildness, solitude, history, alpine views, and big-time exposure, look no further.

From the far right side of the Broadway ledge, scramble up and right following the easiest line to a comfortable belay underneath a stair-step formation. There was a sizable snowfield here in late June 2014. Bypass the snowfield on the right following the ledge to an airy step-around move and belay.

Downclimb 15 feet, traverse an easy section, then climb a couple of harder moves into a black, undercut area. Continue right around another corner and belay. Another 100-foot traversing pitch brings you to the base of a prominent dihedral and wide fist crack. This is the same as the belay for P7 as described under Red Wall on this site. From here, you can see out to where your ledge abruptly disappears into the face a hundred feet to the right. That is definitely not your exit.

Just to the right of the crack system, climb the face up and right past an ancient piton or two and out to the arete. Step around the arete using a large and improbable hold (crux) to a ledge system on the other side. Follow that ledge system along a vertical wall to the ridge. This pitch is the same as the "5.6ish" variation of P7 described under Red Wall on this site.

Descend to the Boulderfield or continue to to the summit via the North Face.

Location

Approach via North Chimney or Chasm View rappels to Broadway. Follow Broadway right to the start of the route.

Protection

Standard rack, double cams if you want to run pitches together. Protection can be sparse, and the route is mostly a traverse, so the second should be comfortable at the grade. The crux moves, however, can be protected fairly well for both leader and second.

Photos

crackatoa Spiesbach
Boulder,Co
 
crackatoa Spiesbach   Boulder,Co
 
This is a great little adventure if you get to Broadway and it's either too crowded or you just were too slow all morning like me and my partner and you realized you don't want to be up on the wall in a thunderstorm.... Pretty cool route. Aug 14, 2017

More About Chasm View Cutoff

Printer-Friendly