Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Chasm View Wall > Red Wall (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

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A Marshmellow Peeps doll was doing a double-kneebar bat-hang under the roof above the crux on the Red Wall. He was so solid and stoic- he just kept staring at us.
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Photo by Tony Bubb, 7/08.

A photo route overlay for Directissima and Red Wall.

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4.8 from 76 votes

Alex Buisse

Jun 26, 2021

“Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.”

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A Marshmellow Peeps doll was doing a double-kneebar bat-hang under the roof above the crux on the Red Wall. He was so solid and stoic- he just kept staring at us.
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<br>
Photo by Tony Bubb, 7/08.

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

A photo route overlay for Directissima and Red Wall.

Chasm View wall from the bivy boulders above Chasm Lake. The track of "Red Wall" is shown in black, with the approach and the variations (dotted line).

The crux roof on pitch 4.

The flake pitch 3 - starts out mellow and then gets really fun! At the top of P3, the belay beta is to use your own material and sling the top of the massive flake or continue higher to try and find an intermediate spot to belay.

10d variation for pitch 2.

Kat A. approaches the sandbagged "10a" crux on the Red Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 7/08.

Beta photo: Red Wall, RMNP, high res.

The first pitch on a beautiful wall. All the holds here were covered with a fine black powder (looked like gun powder) which must be from rocks crashing down from the black band at the top of the route.

Looking down on the beautiful third pitch.

Approaching the crux undercling on pitch 4.

Looking back across the fourth pitch at Frosty belaying.
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July of '89.

There are a few old bolts on the route.

Chasm Cut-Off, right exit to the ridge crest. Exposed 5.7.

Starting up pitch 1 in the morning sunlight. A nice view of The Diamond from here!

Looking down from the belay at the top of pitch 3. This is a higher belay option above the death block.

The 5.7 traverse pitch right. Stop at this block, and look up left. You'll see a piton about 15 ft up. You can build an anchor and stand on this ledge, then swing leads up and out right to avoid rope drag.

After traversing right after pitch 5. You can look up and see the piton. There is a second one over the bulge, then you cut right along the ledge above to the ridge!

The start of pitch 2.

Looking up pitch 4. The crux roof looms above. The death block looms even closer (it is possible to set the belay above the block, as I did on a future ascent).

One of the three options for pitch 6: directly right on Chasm Cut-Off, 5.7.

One of the three options for pitch 6: directly left on Chasm Cut-Off to Broadway. 4th to low 5th (a good option if you want to do a link-up with a route on The Diamond).

Here is a picture of the ramp system that leads back to the start of the climb.

Pitch 5.

The start of pitch 3.

Christa contemplating the crux.

The exit traverse out right after pitch 5. Chossy.
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Photo: Nathan Sandidge.

One of the three options for pitch 6: directly up the 5.9+ corner.

Fun climbing between flakes near top of pitch 3.

Also Appears In

The Diamond

Casual Route (5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a)

Dunn Westbay (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3)

Forrest Finish (5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b)

Pervertical Sanctuary (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)

Black Dagger (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)

Curving Vine (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)

Yellow Wall (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R)

The Obelisk (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)

D7 (5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a)

Bright Star (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R)

Ariana (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

Hearts and Arrows (5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b)

Eroica (5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13)

Dunn-Westbay Indirect (5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c)

The Honeymoon is Over (5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a)

King of Swords (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

D1 (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

D7 Variation (5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c)

King of Swords (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

Full House (5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b)

The Free Grand Traverse (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a)

Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay) (5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a)

Gambler's Fallacy (5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c)

Beethoven's Honeymoon (5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c)

Directissima (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Red Wall (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Sharp on Both Ends (5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

Babies R' Us (5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13)

Invisible Wall (5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a)

Chasm View Cutoff (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13)

North Chimney (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Alexander's Chimney (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a)

Crack of Delight (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b)

Stettner's Ledges (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Fields' Chimney (summer) (5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c)

Malander's Passage (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R)

Kor's Door (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Grey Pillar (5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R)

Directagonal (5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R)

Diagonal Super Direct (5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13)

Endless Summer (5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R)

Zumie's Thumb (5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a)

Teeter Totter Pillar (5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Mod. Snow)

Cable Route (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c)

Keyhole Ridge (5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b)

Smear of Fear (WI5 M6 R)

Alexander's Chimney (WI4 M4)

Lamb's Slide (AI1 Easy Snow)

Crazy Train (WI5)

The Notch Couloir (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c AI2 M2-3 Mod. Snow)

Kiener's Route (5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c M2 Easy Snow)

North Face / Cables Route (5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a M2-3)

Field's Chimney (5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI5 M6+)

Conditional Love (WI5-6 M5 R)

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