Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Topher Donahue, Patience Gribble, Heidi Wirtz
Page Views: 741 total · 40/month
Shared By: mike schlauch on Jul 21, 2017
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is an excellent route, just as good as Babies R' Us and arguably better than Endless Summer. It is definitely not as spicy as the Diagonal Super Direct. It has two great, back-to-back 11d pitches and one of the best finger cracks in The Park. It is a great option if the North Chimney is backed up with shenanigans and you're not psyched on your Diamond plan anymore.


Locate the obvious, right-facing dihedral halfway up the wall to the right of Directissima. That's the 11d finger crack you're aiming for. Instead of climbing the easy, angling ramp past the Red Wall and Directissima, locate an obvious, left-facing corner system at the base of the wall below Directissima.

Several 5.9-5.10 options exist for P1. Aim for a left-facing, wide corner.

P2. Underclng and lieback the short, wide corner, 9+, then go up ledgy terrain to the base of another left-facing corner.

P3. Continue up the left-facing corner, 5.9, and when it starts to look chossy, step left, and climb a cool, 5.7 traverse to a nice belay below the beautiful right-facing 11d corner. P2 and P3 could be combined.

P4. Stem and lieback up the obvious, right-facing corner for 80' to a nice ledge on the left. This is sustained, well-protected, and super fun.

P5. Crack climb up and left onto a steep face with knobs. Pass a bolt (11c or d), then finger traverse left with poor feet for 60'. Protection here was surprisingly good, but the climbing is pumpy. Pass a pin at the end of the traverse, and then climb easier rock up and left to a belay on Directissima.

P6. Finish up Directissima, 10b.


A standard alpine rack with a double set cams through a#2 Camalot, one #3, maybe extra blue and green Aliens.


Stefan Griebel
Boulder, Colorado
Stefan Griebel   Boulder, Colorado
An "alternative" to the North Chimney if it's backed up. LOL! Aug 1, 2017
topher donahue
Nederland, CO
topher donahue   Nederland, CO
At the end of the hard climbing on the traverse pitch, step up and place a hand-sized cam in a horizontal crack 6 feet above the traverse to protect the second climber from a swing on their last hard moves. Aug 11, 2017
Adrian Weaver
Buena Vista Co
Adrian Weaver   Buena Vista Co
The quality of the finger crack may be a bit understated in the above description. It is top notch. Jun 4, 2018