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Sharp on Both Ends
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 12
votes
Routes in Chasm View Wall
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Babies R' Us T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chasm View Cutoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Directissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Invisible Wall T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Red Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sharp on Both Ends T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Topher Donahue, Patience Gribble, Heidi Wirtz |
| Page Views: | 3,381 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | mike schlauch on Jul 21, 2017 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.
Description
This is an excellent route, just as good as Babies R' Us and arguably better than Endless Summer. It is definitely not as spicy as the Diagonal Super Direct. It has two great, back-to-back 11d pitches and one of the best finger cracks in The Park. It is a great option if the North Chimney is backed up with shenanigans and you're not psyched on your Diamond plan anymore.
Location
Locate the obvious, right-facing dihedral halfway up the wall to the right of Directissima. That's the 11d finger crack you're aiming for. Instead of climbing the easy, angling ramp past the Red Wall and Directissima, locate an obvious, left-facing corner system at the base of the wall below Directissima.
Several 5.9-5.10 options exist for P1. Aim for a left-facing, wide corner.
P2. Underclng and lieback the short, wide corner, 9+, then go up ledgy terrain to the base of another left-facing corner.
P3. Continue up the left-facing corner, 5.9, and when it starts to look chossy, step left, and climb a cool, 5.7 traverse to a nice belay below the beautiful right-facing 11d corner. P2 and P3 could be combined.
P4. Stem and lieback up the obvious, right-facing corner for 80' to a nice ledge on the left. This is sustained, well-protected, and super fun.
P5. Crack climb up and left onto a steep face with knobs. Pass a bolt (11c or d), then finger traverse left with poor feet for 60'. Protection here was surprisingly good, but the climbing is pumpy. Pass a pin at the end of the traverse, and then climb easier rock up and left to a belay on Directissima.
P6. Finish up Directissima, 10b.
Several 5.9-5.10 options exist for P1. Aim for a left-facing, wide corner.
P2. Underclng and lieback the short, wide corner, 9+, then go up ledgy terrain to the base of another left-facing corner.
P3. Continue up the left-facing corner, 5.9, and when it starts to look chossy, step left, and climb a cool, 5.7 traverse to a nice belay below the beautiful right-facing 11d corner. P2 and P3 could be combined.
P4. Stem and lieback up the obvious, right-facing corner for 80' to a nice ledge on the left. This is sustained, well-protected, and super fun.
P5. Crack climb up and left onto a steep face with knobs. Pass a bolt (11c or d), then finger traverse left with poor feet for 60'. Protection here was surprisingly good, but the climbing is pumpy. Pass a pin at the end of the traverse, and then climb easier rock up and left to a belay on Directissima.
P6. Finish up Directissima, 10b.
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