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Routes in Chasm View Wall

Babies R' Us T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Chasm View Cutoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Directissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Invisible Wall T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Red Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sharp on Both Ends T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Roger Briggs, Chip Chace
Page Views: 553 total, 33/month
Shared By: ejesse on Aug 2, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This is a great addition to the wall. The crux pitch is short and needs some traffic, but the rest of the route is phenomenal. The start is a fun, aesthetic warm-up, and both the 5.11 pitches are stellar with the second being my favorite.

Pitch 1, 5.9. A right-angling ramp that is longer than it looks eventually slabs out at almost exactly 200' for a gear belay of small cams.

Pitch 2, 5.8. Step high to protect your second, and traverse right for 50 feet to the base of the giant, yellow corner. There is a gigantic, nice, grass ledge.

Pitch 3, 5.11. Go up the easy crack to the corner. Surmount an initial overhang to get established in the corner, and work upwards. The corner eventually disappears just before the obvious crux pitch. Some spicy face moves, protected by a knife blade backed up a few feet lower by a yellow Alien, get you into the arching crack. 10 feet up set a gear belay at the obvious ledge, hanging but comfortable room for 1, 110'.

Pitch 4, low 5.12. Place a cam high, and then fire the crux. It's a short, arching pitch to the left, you go up maybe 20' and over about 50'. There is bomber gear every 10' from good stances. Don't blow it as you are probably coming back into your belayer at the crux if you fall. This pitch needs a bit of traffic to clean it up as the occasionally exploding foot or handhold may add extra excitement. When the arch ends, step up into the next corner, and set the gear belay. There was a fixed nut or piton when we where there at the belay.

Pitch 5, 5.11. Great stemming up the corner leads to a roof pulled with some sloper trickery followed by more great stemming. At its top, set a belay, 110'.

Pitch 6, 5.9. Go straight left into the left-trending crack system. Do some neat hand traverses as you keep heading hard left get you the final fixed gear anchor/rappel anchor of Babies R' Us. It likes to fall out every season, so it might be in the grass.

Descent: climb the rest of The Diamond, and then pick your poison, but if you had enough, walk over and rap Crack of Delight, alternatively, and not really recommended rap Babies R' Us (double ropes).

Location

It is 100' up the ramp from Babies R' Us, 100' down from Directissima.

Protection

Singles to a #3, doubles to a #1, 8 Yosemite draws, nuts, and RPs are not necessary.

Photos

Chip Chace was an equal to Roger on the first ascent team. It should read FA: Roger Briggs, Chip Chace. Sep 2, 2017
alix morris
Estes Park, CO
  5.12a
alix morris   Estes Park, CO
  5.12a
This route is ALL TIME. It may be a little dirty and exfoliating but is already pretty darn clean and will clean up even better. It seemed on par with its neighbor in difficulty and excitment. Every pitch is stellar though! What a gem! I would recommend maybe another 0.5 and/ 0.75 if you like to place gear, since every anchor is gear. Some clutch pieces are needed and often used in anchors. Aug 2, 2017