Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
Routes in Chasm View Wall
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 500 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Roger Briggs, Chip Chace|
|Page Views:||553 total, 33/month|
|Shared By:||ejesse on Aug 2, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a great addition to the wall. The crux pitch is short and needs some traffic, but the rest of the route is phenomenal. The start is a fun, aesthetic warm-up, and both the 5.11 pitches are stellar with the second being my favorite.
Pitch 1, 5.9. A right-angling ramp that is longer than it looks eventually slabs out at almost exactly 200' for a gear belay of small cams.
Pitch 2, 5.8. Step high to protect your second, and traverse right for 50 feet to the base of the giant, yellow corner. There is a gigantic, nice, grass ledge.
Pitch 3, 5.11. Go up the easy crack to the corner. Surmount an initial overhang to get established in the corner, and work upwards. The corner eventually disappears just before the obvious crux pitch. Some spicy face moves, protected by a knife blade backed up a few feet lower by a yellow Alien, get you into the arching crack. 10 feet up set a gear belay at the obvious ledge, hanging but comfortable room for 1, 110'.
Pitch 4, low 5.12. Place a cam high, and then fire the crux. It's a short, arching pitch to the left, you go up maybe 20' and over about 50'. There is bomber gear every 10' from good stances. Don't blow it as you are probably coming back into your belayer at the crux if you fall. This pitch needs a bit of traffic to clean it up as the occasionally exploding foot or handhold may add extra excitement. When the arch ends, step up into the next corner, and set the gear belay. There was a fixed nut or piton when we where there at the belay.
Pitch 5, 5.11. Great stemming up the corner leads to a roof pulled with some sloper trickery followed by more great stemming. At its top, set a belay, 110'.
Pitch 6, 5.9. Go straight left into the left-trending crack system. Do some neat hand traverses as you keep heading hard left get you the final fixed gear anchor/rappel anchor of Babies R' Us. It likes to fall out every season, so it might be in the grass.
Descent: climb the rest of The Diamond, and then pick your poison, but if you had enough, walk over and rap Crack of Delight, alternatively, and not really recommended rap Babies R' Us (double ropes).