Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Bret Ruckman, Randy Farris
Page Views: 2,548 total · 48/month
Shared By: MauryB on Sep 22, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


This is a fantastic route on clean rock. It is good for a shorter/warmer alternative to the Diamond or a hard man start as an alternative to the North Chimney. It has some solid runouts, but the bolts are where you need them for the hard climbing.

Pitch 1. Smear some delicate slab moves up to the first bolt, clip it, and take a deep breath. Head straight up the obvious weakness, aiming for a pin in a shallow, left-facing corner up and right. Clip this pin, move up and right out of the corner and commit to a healthy, albeit easy, runout to the line of bolts marking the crux of this pitch, ending at a two bolt belay below a roof, 11c.

Pitch 2. Get some thin gear to start in a shallow corner right off the belay, then take another deep breath as you commit to the slabby features leading to the first bolt 20 feet above. A hidden piton below it gives a welcome surprise. The bolts get close together, you know what that means. After the crux, some more engaged runouts lead to another bolted belay, 5.12.

Pitch 3. You guessed it, another runout to the first bolt (much easier than the first two)! Follow the bolts to the crux arete sequence, then venture up the easier crack/ledge system to a single bolt belay, 5.11.

Pitch 4. Step down and right to the corner, then go up to the bolt which is 15 feet straight right of the belay. Climb up into the roof where you plug some bomber big gear (optional #4), pull the lip, and enjoy the moderate cracks up to a fixed belay of stoppers and old tat, 5.9.

Pitch 5. Go up and right off the belay in a shallow, right-arching corner, then go up to a fixed pin protecting the step right into another corner. Gun for the two bolts above on the clean panel of rock. From the final bolt, it looks possible to traverse up and right, we stepped left over the mini-roof and up the flake. Reach onto the ledge and dig those fingers in deep to that grass, exciting! 5.11.


Locate the largest, most prominent black streak on the lower left side of Chasm View Wall, which terminates at Broadway Ledge. Start just right of this streak gunning for a bolt 20 feet off the ledge system (or snow in earlier season).

Descent: rap the route, skipping the single bolt belay station for pitch 3/4. Doubles felt necessary. Or continue up the right side of the Diamond like a bawse!


SR to #3 is adequate. RPs. Optional #4. QDs.


Drew Thayer
Denver, CO
Drew Thayer   Denver, CO
You climbed this in late summer, so it's OK not having the snowfield as a "cheater block"? Looks like an awesome bold route!

Glad the nut anchor is still there. When I rapped into it in June, the nuts were literally lying on an inch of freeze-thawed icy mud-froth, completely out of the cracks. Was quite a grubby mess cleaning the muck out. Oct 1, 2014
Boulder, CO
MauryB   Boulder, CO
It was pretty exciting getting to that first bolt, would definitely have been nice to have the snow as a cheater/crash pad just in case! Nov 10, 2014
Alex Shainman
Rifle, CO
Alex Shainman   Rifle, CO
For some added historical info...with Mr Ruckman's permission, I added that first bolt approximately 15 years ago. I started noticing a trend in the late '90s with the receding "glacial" snow tongue, and this is such a killer route, especially in late season when it's totally dry. It was way more exciting before that bolt was there, when the snow wasn't....
Randy Farris should be included in the FA. Mar 31, 2015
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
About 3 parties in the last week have gotten up this beauty. The route is clean and ready to go for summer! Jul 12, 2016
The babies just graduated from high school this year! So cool to see people are getting on this great route. Jul 13, 2016
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
  5.12a PG13
We unfortunately had to bail after the 3rd pitch due to frigid temps and deteriorating weather, but the first two pitches of this route are a masterpiece of rock climbing! Thoughtful and sustained slab/face with a healthy dose of spice!

The 1st pitch was listed as 11a on our topo and that seemed about right. The 12a crux on p2 is really thin but short and well-protected. It eases significantly afterwards but still keeps you on your toes (literally).

Expect to work a little harder way above your gear if you're on the short side (5'7"), and I thought that getting the small but bomber gear at the start of the 2nd pitch was pretty spicy, but again, I'm short....

I'm surprised this doesn't see more traffic, I thought the first two pitches were on par with the slab/face climbing on Spear Me The Details and Birds of Fire! Aug 28, 2016
alix morris
Estes Park, CO
alix morris   Estes Park, CO
Route is good to go! Slightly wet on P4 and P5 but not on cruxy bits. Exciting route but tastefully bolted and runouts on moderate terrain with good holds. PG-13 seems accurate. All hard bits are very well-protected! Highly recommended to get to Broadway!!!! North Chimney looks like choss.... Jul 20, 2017
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
The route was fully dry yesterday. The climbing on the first two pitches is excellent. The rest of the climbing is pretty good, but the last pitch seems contrived when an easier exit is at hand. The grassy topout was exciting nonetheless. We were glad for the first bolt off the ground on the first pitch.
A single rack to #1 Camalot would be sufficient for this route. Bring some stiff, snug edging shoes (not comfy, bathroom slippers like I did)! Aug 5, 2017
Nathan Hadley
  5.12 PG13
Nathan Hadley  
  5.12 PG13
The first 2.5 pitches are very high quality and feel sustained with the PG-13 on the more moderate sections. The second half eases quite a bit (with just one short slightly-contrived but very fun 11- bolted section), which is welcomed if you're trying to get to Broadway and continue on to The Diamond. I linked the 3rd and 4th pitch to skip the 1 bolt belay and barely made it with a 60m but had to reach the fixed anchor with a double length! Sep 3, 2017
Corey Flynn   USA
Radically thin! I thought this route was bold the whole way, even on the 5.9 pitch. Getting to the first bolt requires some faith in one's 5.10 edging abilities, and then it's a full-on vision quest. Bring your best dancing shoes for the crux. YEE-HAW! Sep 5, 2017
Riley N  
Quality! More people should do this route. Although the cruxes are blank face climbing for the most part, there is a ton of varied climbing on this route. On top of that, the runouts are enjoyably heads up and will make you grin. Just awesome.

Spoiler gear beta: the moves off the crux pitch belay are attention getting but pretty fun when you're fiddling in your gear while looking at a fall on the anchor (it's bolted, giddy up!). I snuck in a 0.3 x4 (a green Alien would work better) and a micro offset before gunning it for the first bolt 15' further. This whole pitch is awesome, and the spaced bolts at the end of the pitch on 5.10 terrain is a blast. Jul 15, 2018