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Babies R' Us
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 10
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Routes in Chasm View Wall
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Babies R' Us T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Chasm View Cutoff T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Directissima T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Invisible Wall T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Red Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sharp on Both Ends T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Bret Ruckman, Randy Farris |
| Page Views: | 2,548 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | MauryB on Sep 22, 2014 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures
Details
Seasonal Closures March 1-July 31. Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures occur in March and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
Description
This is a fantastic route on clean rock. It is good for a shorter/warmer alternative to the Diamond or a hard man start as an alternative to the North Chimney. It has some solid runouts, but the bolts are where you need them for the hard climbing.
Pitch 1. Smear some delicate slab moves up to the first bolt, clip it, and take a deep breath. Head straight up the obvious weakness, aiming for a pin in a shallow, left-facing corner up and right. Clip this pin, move up and right out of the corner and commit to a healthy, albeit easy, runout to the line of bolts marking the crux of this pitch, ending at a two bolt belay below a roof, 11c.
Pitch 2. Get some thin gear to start in a shallow corner right off the belay, then take another deep breath as you commit to the slabby features leading to the first bolt 20 feet above. A hidden piton below it gives a welcome surprise. The bolts get close together, you know what that means. After the crux, some more engaged runouts lead to another bolted belay, 5.12.
Pitch 3. You guessed it, another runout to the first bolt (much easier than the first two)! Follow the bolts to the crux arete sequence, then venture up the easier crack/ledge system to a single bolt belay, 5.11.
Pitch 4. Step down and right to the corner, then go up to the bolt which is 15 feet straight right of the belay. Climb up into the roof where you plug some bomber big gear (optional #4), pull the lip, and enjoy the moderate cracks up to a fixed belay of stoppers and old tat, 5.9.
Pitch 5. Go up and right off the belay in a shallow, right-arching corner, then go up to a fixed pin protecting the step right into another corner. Gun for the two bolts above on the clean panel of rock. From the final bolt, it looks possible to traverse up and right, we stepped left over the mini-roof and up the flake. Reach onto the ledge and dig those fingers in deep to that grass, exciting! 5.11.
Pitch 1. Smear some delicate slab moves up to the first bolt, clip it, and take a deep breath. Head straight up the obvious weakness, aiming for a pin in a shallow, left-facing corner up and right. Clip this pin, move up and right out of the corner and commit to a healthy, albeit easy, runout to the line of bolts marking the crux of this pitch, ending at a two bolt belay below a roof, 11c.
Pitch 2. Get some thin gear to start in a shallow corner right off the belay, then take another deep breath as you commit to the slabby features leading to the first bolt 20 feet above. A hidden piton below it gives a welcome surprise. The bolts get close together, you know what that means. After the crux, some more engaged runouts lead to another bolted belay, 5.12.
Pitch 3. You guessed it, another runout to the first bolt (much easier than the first two)! Follow the bolts to the crux arete sequence, then venture up the easier crack/ledge system to a single bolt belay, 5.11.
Pitch 4. Step down and right to the corner, then go up to the bolt which is 15 feet straight right of the belay. Climb up into the roof where you plug some bomber big gear (optional #4), pull the lip, and enjoy the moderate cracks up to a fixed belay of stoppers and old tat, 5.9.
Pitch 5. Go up and right off the belay in a shallow, right-arching corner, then go up to a fixed pin protecting the step right into another corner. Gun for the two bolts above on the clean panel of rock. From the final bolt, it looks possible to traverse up and right, we stepped left over the mini-roof and up the flake. Reach onto the ledge and dig those fingers in deep to that grass, exciting! 5.11.
Location
Locate the largest, most prominent black streak on the lower left side of Chasm View Wall, which terminates at Broadway Ledge. Start just right of this streak gunning for a bolt 20 feet off the ledge system (or snow in earlier season).
Descent: rap the route, skipping the single bolt belay station for pitch 3/4. Doubles felt necessary. Or continue up the right side of the Diamond like a bawse!
Descent: rap the route, skipping the single bolt belay station for pitch 3/4. Doubles felt necessary. Or continue up the right side of the Diamond like a bawse!
Denver, CO
Glad the nut anchor is still there. When I rapped into it in June, the nuts were literally lying on an inch of freeze-thawed icy mud-froth, completely out of the cracks. Was quite a grubby mess cleaning the muck out. Oct 1, 2014
Boulder, CO
Rifle, CO
Randy Farris should be included in the FA. Mar 31, 2015
Golden, Co
Boulder, CO
The 1st pitch was listed as 11a on our topo and that seemed about right. The 12a crux on p2 is really thin but short and well-protected. It eases significantly afterwards but still keeps you on your toes (literally).
Expect to work a little harder way above your gear if you're on the short side (5'7"), and I thought that getting the small but bomber gear at the start of the 2nd pitch was pretty spicy, but again, I'm short....
I'm surprised this doesn't see more traffic, I thought the first two pitches were on par with the slab/face climbing on Spear Me The Details and Birds of Fire! Aug 28, 2016
Estes Park, CO
Boulder, CO
A single rack to #1 Camalot would be sufficient for this route. Bring some stiff, snug edging shoes (not comfy, bathroom slippers like I did)! Aug 5, 2017
USA
Spoiler gear beta: the moves off the crux pitch belay are attention getting but pretty fun when you're fiddling in your gear while looking at a fall on the anchor (it's bolted, giddy up!). I snuck in a 0.3 x4 (a green Alien would work better) and a micro offset before gunning it for the first bolt 15' further. This whole pitch is awesome, and the spaced bolts at the end of the pitch on 5.10 terrain is a blast. Jul 15, 2018