10d variation for pitch 2.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Chasm View Wall > Red Wall (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

10d variation for pitch 2.

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The flake pitch 3 - starts out mellow and then gets really fun! At the top of P3, the belay beta is to use your own material and sling the top of the massive flake or continue higher to try and find an intermediate spot to belay.

Kat A. approaches the sandbagged "10a" crux on the Red Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 7/08.

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Steph Abegg

Sep 14, 2019

“10d variation for pitch 2.”

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Nearby Photos

A Marshmellow Peeps doll was doing a double-kneebar bat-hang under the roof above the crux on the Red Wall. He was so solid and stoic- he just kept staring at us.
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Photo by Tony Bubb, 7/08.

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

A photo route overlay for Directissima and Red Wall.

Chasm View wall from the bivy boulders above Chasm Lake. The track of "Red Wall" is shown in black, with the approach and the variations (dotted line).

The crux roof on pitch 4.

The flake pitch 3 - starts out mellow and then gets really fun! At the top of P3, the belay beta is to use your own material and sling the top of the massive flake or continue higher to try and find an intermediate spot to belay.

10d variation for pitch 2.

Kat A. approaches the sandbagged "10a" crux on the Red Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 7/08.

Beta photo: Red Wall, RMNP, high res.

The first pitch on a beautiful wall. All the holds here were covered with a fine black powder (looked like gun powder) which must be from rocks crashing down from the black band at the top of the route.

Looking down on the beautiful third pitch.

Approaching the crux undercling on pitch 4.

Looking back across the fourth pitch at Frosty belaying.
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July of '89.

There are a few old bolts on the route.

Chasm Cut-Off, right exit to the ridge crest. Exposed 5.7.

Starting up pitch 1 in the morning sunlight. A nice view of The Diamond from here!

Looking down from the belay at the top of pitch 3. This is a higher belay option above the death block.

The 5.7 traverse pitch right. Stop at this block, and look up left. You'll see a piton about 15 ft up. You can build an anchor and stand on this ledge, then swing leads up and out right to avoid rope drag.

After traversing right after pitch 5. You can look up and see the piton. There is a second one over the bulge, then you cut right along the ledge above to the ridge!

The start of pitch 2.

Looking up pitch 4. The crux roof looms above. The death block looms even closer (it is possible to set the belay above the block, as I did on a future ascent).

One of the three options for pitch 6: directly right on Chasm Cut-Off, 5.7.

One of the three options for pitch 6: directly left on Chasm Cut-Off to Broadway. 4th to low 5th (a good option if you want to do a link-up with a route on The Diamond).

Here is a picture of the ramp system that leads back to the start of the climb.

Pitch 5.

The start of pitch 3.

Christa contemplating the crux.

The exit traverse out right after pitch 5. Chossy.
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Photo: Nathan Sandidge.

One of the three options for pitch 6: directly up the 5.9+ corner.

Fun climbing between flakes near top of pitch 3.

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