Eric Rosenblum on Directissima.

All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Chasm View Wall > Directissima (5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Eric Rosenblum on Directissima.

ID 106226785 ·

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Yager finishing out the last pitch.

Directissima route.

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5.0 from 3 votes

Mick Follari

Aug 11, 2008

“Eric Rosenblum on Directissima.”

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Last pitch seemed easy compared to the squeeze.

Beginning the last pitch.
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Photo courtesy of John Dickey, 2007.

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

A photo route overlay for Directissima and Red Wall.

Graveyard of old-style #4s in the chimney/squeeze of pitch 3.

Yager finishing out the last pitch.

Eric Rosenblum on Directissima.

Directissima route.

OW Squeeze chimney on Directissima, P3.

An old bolt (made with sawn piton) to give an uncertain sense of protection on the wide section on pitch 3. There are some old cams to clip as well. Plus just bring a #4.

Chimney/squeeze on pitch 3.

The upper section of pitch 2.

Jesse pulling some steep, enjoyable face moves on P3 before the squeeze chimney section of Directissima.

Greg starting P3. There's an airy section moving right past these flakes.

The comfy yet tight belay stance for the fourth pitch.

Greg near the top of the last pitch.

Mike working off the 2nd pitch.

The start of the squeeze chiminey on the 3rd pitch.

Starting the first pitch (and the infamous ass shot).

The first two pitches are broken and rotten with a total of 20 percent of good climbing. The upper half though stupid with the offwidth are where it's at.
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The photo was taken by and posted with permission by AdamShep.

The last bit of the 2nd pitch breathing heavy. Each move is work.
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The picture taken by and posted with the permission of AdamShep.

An overview of the entire route including the scramble.

An old bolt on pitch 4. Not really necessary if you have a #4.

Gil launching into pitch 2.

Nate leading off pitch 3.

An old bolt (made with sawn piton) to give an uncertain sense of protection on the wide section on Pitch 3. There are some old cams to clip as well. Plus just bring a #4.

An 0ld bolt at belay spot at top of pitch 2.

The belay anchor at top of pitch 1. Note the old bolt upper left piece.

Beautiful route.

Looking up pitch 1.

The final pitch is worth the heavy breathing, stupid offwidth, and long day out. If it wasn't for the last pitch, I would never go back.
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The photo was taken by and posted with permission of AdamShep atop the third pitch.

Mike entering what we thought was the crux of the fourth pitch. Mike also asking Kevin, "hey do these new Patagoochie pants make my ass look fat?" Kevin responded, No your face does." DEEEEEEP!

Looking up pitch 4.

An old pin on pitch 3.

Nate starting up pitch 2. The start is a bit burly for 5.9, but it's all there, protects well, and is quite good climbing.

Pulling through the small roof just after the stance in this photo was the crux of Pitch 4 in my opinion. Nice exposure as you look down to place the left foot over the roof.

Starting up pitch 4. This route has an position beside the towering Diamond.

Sam nearing P2 belay on Directissma.

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