Graveyard of old-style #4s in the chimney/squeeze of pitch 3.

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Graveyard of old-style #4s in the chimney/squeeze of pitch 3.

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Directissima route.

OW Squeeze chimney on Directissima, P3.

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5.0 from 2 votes

Steph Abegg

Sep 7, 2019

“Graveyard of old-style #4s in the chimney/squeeze of pitch 3.”

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Last pitch seemed easy compared to the squeeze.

Beginning the last pitch.
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Photo courtesy of John Dickey, 2007.

Every single route on the east face of Long's Peak. A full caption is in comments.

A photo route overlay for Directissima and Red Wall.

Eric Rosenblum on Directissima.

Directissima route.

Graveyard of old-style #4s in the chimney/squeeze of pitch 3.

OW Squeeze chimney on Directissima, P3.

Jesse pulling some steep, enjoyable face moves on P3 before the squeeze chimney section of Directissima.

Yager finishing out the last pitch.

The comfy yet tight belay stance for the fourth pitch.

Greg near the top of the last pitch.

Greg starting P3. There's an airy section moving right past these flakes.

Starting the first pitch (and the infamous ass shot).

Mike working off the 2nd pitch.

The start of the squeeze chiminey on the 3rd pitch.

An old pin on pitch 3.

An old bolt (made with sawn piton) to give an uncertain sense of protection on the wide section on pitch 3. There are some old cams to clip as well. Plus just bring a #4.

An old bolt (made with sawn piton) to give an uncertain sense of protection on the wide section on Pitch 3. There are some old cams to clip as well. Plus just bring a #4.

An 0ld bolt at belay spot at top of pitch 2.

The belay anchor at top of pitch 1. Note the old bolt upper left piece.

Beautiful route.

Sam nearing P2 belay on Directissma.

Mike entering what we thought was the crux of the fourth pitch. Mike also asking Kevin, "hey do these new Patagoochie pants make my ass look fat?" Kevin responded, No your face does." DEEEEEEP!

Starting up pitch 4. This route has an position beside the towering Diamond.

Gil launching into pitch 2.

Chimney/squeeze on pitch 3.

An old bolt on pitch 4. Not really necessary if you have a #4.

Pulling through the small roof just after the stance in this photo was the crux of Pitch 4 in my opinion. Nice exposure as you look down to place the left foot over the roof.

The upper section of pitch 2.