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Routes in Ship's Prow

Bologna Pony T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Etch-A-Sketch T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Half Day's Work T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ice Cream Turned to Shit T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Keel Haul T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Man Overboard T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Portal T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sarchasm S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Scots on the Rocks T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ship Of Fools T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Tunnel of Love T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Yard Arms T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

The Ship's Prow is the comparatively small crag to the south (left) of Chasm Lake on the way up to the Diamond of Long's Peak. While it seems diminutive at first glance, it's actually a good, steep cliff ranging from 300-500 feet tall -- it just looks small because of the backdrop.

The routes here are all trad, with the exception of Bologna Pony and Sarchasm on the far right. In 2004-6, Topher Donahue has put up some 5.13s here, Yardarms, Etch-a-Sketch, and The Keel Haul.

There is plenty of room for development especially along the continuation of South-facing side Ship's Prow which is also known as Glacier Ridge.

Descent either are done by rappel, continuing west on the ridge to the West side of Chasm Lake, or a treacherous ramp right of the Great Dihedral (consider rappels in here).

Getting There

Follow the Long's Peak trail (the standard slog, aka "Long's Peak East Trail") for about 3.5 miles to a small saddle above treeline where the trail splits. Take the left fork to Chasm Lake (it's signed); you'll reach the lake in about 20 minutes from this junction.

The Ship's Prow is the obvious, prow-shaped formation just south and uphill of the lake. It sits just right of the long talus slope leading up to The Loft.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ship's Prow

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 5
Portal
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Scots on the Rocks
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 3
Ship Of Fools
Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 7
Bologna Pony
Trad, Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 3
Sarchasm
Sport, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Portal
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Scots on the Rocks
 3
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Ship Of Fools
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Sport, Alpine 4 pitches
Bologna Pony
 7
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, Sport, Alpine 3 pitches
Sarchasm
 3
5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport, Alpine
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
The walk off from this is difficult to find, then at best, loose and dangerous. As well, the noted downclimb of Gangplank's top pitch (5.7, loose) to reach Ship Of Fools is not [recommended]. With this in mind, we took Gillett's suggestion in his recent book to heart and put in an anchor up top. No bolts were required, as this was done on hexes and slings. Lower raps were also rebuilt or reinforced. The last rap still needs a 20' webbing around the big flake to back up the cable. Sorry, I was out of stuff when we arrived.

It is presently possible to descend the formation safely via rappel on Ship Of Fools. Before you "booty" this gear, please consider the intent of those who placed it as a community service. The new station is not at all visible from anywhere but where it stands and is not an eyesore. As well, if you take the gear, you'll end up doing a nasty loose downclimb 450' up, or walking off the back side. I've done that before and it sucks- the objective hazard of loose rock and gravel on slopes after last year's slide is not very reasonable.

Cheers! Jul 7, 2003
Half Day's Work, just left of Stromboli, went free by Tony Bubb and myself last weekend. The grade was easy enough that if anyone had repeated the route, they most likely would have done it free. However, Bernard Gillet, Richard Rossiter, Dumais, and even the park rangers have never heard of or seen anyone on the route, and all hold we did an FFA. The original pins (some less than a quarter driven) were still on route and help mark the way. A rack to #3 Camalot is sufficient, and the photo on p71 of Rossiter's new book marks the way. Aug 5, 2015

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