All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Long's Peak > Diamond

Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay)

Name: Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay)
Rating: 4.0

5.14- YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British

Routes in The Diamond

L › R R › L A › Z

	Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Beethoven's Honeymoon T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Black Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
	Dunn-Westbay Indirect T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
	Enos Mills Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2
	Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
	Forrest Finish T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Free Grand Traverse, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Full Dunn-Westbay (aka Dunn-Westbay Direct or The Direct Dunn-Westbay) T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Gambler's Fallacy T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Obelisk, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV
GPS:	40.25617, -105.61384
FA:	Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills 2013
Page Views:	18,505 total · 116/month
Shared By:	Tank Evans on Aug 29, 2013
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

4 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

The Full Dunn-Westbay frees the original Dunn-Westbay aid line. Josh Wharton had freed about ½ the route in 2011 at 13-, avoiding the 5.14 and 5.13- crux sections of the aid line by traversing over into Gear and Clothing. The original aid line follows one perfect crack line to the summit, and the Full Dunn-Westbay free climbs this system ledge-to-ledge in 4, 80m (80m rope required!!!) rope-stretching pitches. It is the most continuous splitter route on the Diamond. No bolts were added for protection on any of the pitches. The immaculate rock, ample protection, sustained climbing, and spectacular position makes it truly one of the best multi-pitch climbs in Colorado. It is hard to believe things like this exist in the alpine.

Note: It is possible to split the crux pitch into 2 pitches by belaying (hanging) at the end of the 5.12 section on the crux pitch, it is unclear whether this changes the grade. Doing it as one mega-pitch certainly adds a mental crux. The proper route should be done ledge-to-ledge as Tommy Caldwell envisioned.