Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Tommy Caldwell and Joe Mills 2013
Page Views: 8,975 total · 136/month
Shared By: Tank Evans on Aug 29, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details


The Full Dunn-Westbay frees the original Dunn-Westbay aid line. Josh Wharton had freed about ½ the route in 2011 at 13-, avoiding the 5.14 and 5.13- crux sections of the aid line by traversing over into Gear and Clothing. The original aid line follows one perfect crack line to the summit, and the Full Dunn-Westbay free climbs this system ledge-to-ledge in 4, 80m (80m rope required!!!) rope-stretching pitches. It is the most continuous splitter route on the Diamond. No bolts were added for protection on any of the pitches. The immaculate rock, ample protection, sustained climbing, and spectacular position makes it truly one of the best multi-pitch climbs in Colorado. It is hard to believe things like this exist in the alpine.

Note: It is possible to split the crux pitch into 2 pitches by belaying (hanging) at the end of the 5.12 section on the crux pitch, it is unclear whether this changes the grade. Doing it as one mega-pitch certainly adds a mental crux. The proper route should be done ledge-to-ledge as Tommy Caldwell envisioned.


Begin by climbing up the right side of the Green Pillar. Follow the splitter to the summit


An 80m rope! 6 slings, 18 quickdraws. A single set #0.75-#3 Camalot, doubles in tips to fingers, singles in micro, and 1 set of stoppers.


Aka the Dunn-Westbay Direct. Aka the Direct Dunn-Westbay.

When dry, this route is absolutely incredible. The crux pitch is completely unique; a true 80 meter rope stretcher, with multiple cruxes, very few down pulling holds, and the potential to fall off at the 78 meter mark. Redpoint efforts can take more than an hour!

Over the course of my three season battle with this route I broke several footholds and one large flake before the start of the most difficult climbing. This made several sections a bit harder, and I think it's likely 14b in its current state. It's certainly harder than Sarchasm and much much harder then The Honeymoon is Over.

Catching the route dry is key to success, although there's almost always some wetness to contend with. Extended dry periods in August and September preceded by a low snow pack make for the best conditions.

Since the FFA, the crux pitch has been largely fixed. Pulling all the fixed gear and doing a true redpoint, placing all the gear on lead, would be an obvious way to up the difficulty.

Video of TC working on the route in poor conditions:

vimeo.com/51980457. Sep 11, 2018
I agree, even prior to whatever has broke, I think the full pitch is much harder than Sarchasm and every bit of 14b. Sarchasm took me maybe 3 half-days of work whereas even a TR send of the DDW took me 12.

Also, I agree, the looming goal for sure is a true clean ascent, since the gear is obvious and bomber but would probably add some kick to the pitch. Sep 11, 2018