Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Forrest, 1970. FFA: Goss & Logan, 1975
Page Views: 22,093 total · 100/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jun 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route should probably be added to the database for a variety of reasons. First, the current description under the Yellow Wall omits the last pitch, which is probably the crux of the FF, and second, the Yellow Wall is not the FF, and vice versa, as much as we would like to say we've climbed the Yellow Wall of the Diamond when we climb this variation (see comments under Yellow Wall).

I suggest the Yellow Wall entry in the database be revised to describe the actual Yellow Wall climb and not just the easiest path up this part of the wall.

Pitches 4-6 of the Forrest Finish involve pretty burly and sustained hand/fist crack climbing. There isn't any 5.10 offwidthing as stated in the Gillett guide, but it's still pretty darn physical. It goes without saying that this type of crack climbing is pretty draining at 13,500+, and will probably feel more like 10+/11- if you're not well acclimitized (as is usually the case).

To start, climb the first 3 pitches of D7 or Yellow Wall to the right side of Crossover Ledge, each of which is 10-. The D7 variation to FF (called Komito Freeway) is actually the path of the first free ascent of the DIamond by Goss & Logan, though they apparently switched over to Black Dagger in the middle of the 6th pitch.

P4- From the right side of Crossover Ledge (with the Black Dagger slot looming above), climb up about 20 feet until you can find a rightward traverse that leads over to the FF crack system (5.9). Climb the crack system to an obvious intimidating flare/OW. Climb the OW with the help of a crack on the left (5.10) and contnue until rope drag stops you in your tracks and belay (150 feet).

P5- Continue up the crack system through an OW (guide calls 10a but it felt more like 5.8/9). Rest and then climb the burly, sustained hand/fist crack past some awkward pods (10) to belay alongside the Yellow Wall bivy ledge (100 feet).

P6- More wide hands (10) leads to a good rest with multiple options above. The Black Dagger system is the leftmost and looks like it is probably the easier way to go. The FF takes the right variation and climbs a funky, insecure lieback (10) up into a slot. Awkwardly climb the slot via a mix of kneebars and face features in the slot (10) up to Almost Table Ledge (150 feet).

The FF continues up from here via 2 more seldom-climbed 5.9 pitches to the top of the Diamond. The usual option is to traverse left to a short right-facing dihedral where a pin protects a 5.8 move up to Table Ledge.

Descend following the D7 rappel route (6 raps) to Broadway and then 4 raps to the side of the N. Chimney to the Mills Glacier. The alternate option, which is probably faster, traverses over to Kiener's and follows that, skirting the summit, to the N. Face cables descent. The disadvantage to the latter option is that you have to hike a grueling 400 vertical feet up Kiener's late in the day and that you can't stash your gear at the base of the wall.

Protection

Set of nuts. Set of cams with doubles in hand sizes (#1, 2, and 3 Camalots). #4 Friend. Tape gloves would have been nice.hand/f

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