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Routes in The Diamond

Ariana T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Dagger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bright Star T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Casual Route T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Curving Vine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
D1 T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
D7 T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
D7 Variation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dunn Westbay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C3
Eroica T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Forrest Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Dunn-Westbay T 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Full House T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Hearts and Arrows T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Honeymoon is Over, The T 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
King of Swords T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Obelisk, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pervertical Sanctuary T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Wall T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Forrest, 1970. FFA: Goss & Logan, 1975
Page Views: 17,876 total, 95/month
Shared By: Joe Collins on Jun 22, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closures Details

Description

This route should probably be added to the database for a variety of reasons. First, the current description under the Yellow Wall omits the last pitch, which is probably the crux of the FF, and second, the Yellow Wall is not the FF, and vice versa, as much as we would like to say we've climbed the Yellow Wall of the Diamond when we climb this variation (see comments under Yellow Wall).

I suggest the Yellow Wall entry in the database be revised to describe the actual Yellow Wall climb and not just the easiest path up this part of the wall.

Pitches 4-6 of the Forrest Finish involve pretty burly and sustained hand/fist crack climbing. There isn't any 5.10 offwidthing as stated in the Gillett guide, but it's still pretty darn physical. It goes without saying that this type of crack climbing is pretty draining at 13,500+, and will probably feel more like 10+/11- if you're not well acclimitized (as is usually the case).

To start, climb the first 3 pitches of D7 or Yellow Wall to the right side of Crossover Ledge, each of which is 10-. The D7 variation to FF (called Komito Freeway) is actually the path of the first free ascent of the DIamond by Goss & Logan, though they apparently switched over to Black Dagger in the middle of the 6th pitch.

P4- From the right side of Crossover Ledge (with the Black Dagger slot looming above), climb up about 20 feet until you can find a rightward traverse that leads over to the FF crack system (5.9). Climb the crack system to an obvious intimidating flare/OW. Climb the OW with the help of a crack on the left (5.10) and contnue until rope drag stops you in your tracks and belay (150 feet).

P5- Continue up the crack system through an OW (guide calls 10a but it felt more like 5.8/9). Rest and then climb the burly, sustained hand/fist crack past some awkward pods (10) to belay alongside the Yellow Wall bivy ledge (100 feet).

P6- More wide hands (10) leads to a good rest with multiple options above. The Black Dagger system is the leftmost and looks like it is probably the easier way to go. The FF takes the right variation and climbs a funky, insecure lieback (10) up into a slot. Awkwardly climb the slot via a mix of kneebars and face features in the slot (10) up to Almost Table Ledge (150 feet).

The FF continues up from here via 2 more seldom-climbed 5.9 pitches to the top of the Diamond. The usual option is to traverse left to a short right-facing dihedral where a pin protects a 5.8 move up to Table Ledge.

Descend following the D7 rappel route (6 raps) to Broadway and then 4 raps to the side of the N. Chimney to the Mills Glacier. The alternate option, which is probably faster, traverses over to Kiener's and follows that, skirting the summit, to the N. Face cables descent. The disadvantage to the latter option is that you have to hike a grueling 400 vertical feet up Kiener's late in the day and that you can't stash your gear at the base of the wall.

Protection

Set of nuts. Set of cams with doubles in hand sizes (#1, 2, and 3 Camalots). #4 Friend. Tape gloves would have been nice.hand/f
303scott  
 
We did a short pitch (~80 feet) per the newest guidebook from the right side of crossover ledge to just below the OW start of FF. That set up for a burly and fantastic 200 foot pitch to Yellow Wall bivy ledge. Extremely physical. From there, it was another fantastic 200 foot pitch to Almost Table Ledge anchors. On that final pitch, when the crack appears to run out, you can stay slightly right (~ 2 feet) of the crack that ended or traverse left into Black Dagger's upper section. I stayed right. While the right crack doesn't look like it takes much gear, it is actually pretty good and the climbing was excellent. Jul 20, 2017
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
Forrest finish is good, not sure why folks skip them. Maybe cause they can sometimes be wet. Jun 2, 2017
Sastre
Denver
Sastre   Denver
Sounds like the last two pitches are pretty good, so why do most people skip them? Is it a weather/time/tiredness thing or are they really not all that fun?

Thanks! Jun 2, 2017
Dan Brockway
Boulder
Dan Brockway   Boulder
I have done the top two pitches once when we felt fresh enough and time allowed. Very recommended. Walking off on Table Ledge always felt like I was bailing on the complete face. Apr 21, 2011
Devan Johnson  
5.10c
Wow- this is a physical climb. I thought it was a significant step up from Pevertical Sanctuary. The OW sections protect very well with a #4 cam and below- but still climb like OWs. The last pitch to Table Ledge was a wide, rattly, fist splitter- I'm guessing it's the last pitch of Black Dagger, but it seemed like the most logical line. Linking pitches on this climb would be difficult without serious runouts! Aug 26, 2009
Kevin Stricker
Evergreen, CO
  5.10c
Kevin Stricker   Evergreen, CO
  5.10c
Crossover ledge to Yellow Wall Bivy ledge is 70m, and is an awesome full value pitch. Jul 15, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10
I'm not exactly sure how we broke the pitches up, but what I recall most distinctly about the climb F.F. is that we combined pitches rather than belaying at the prescribed spots, and at one point ran up 70 meters of sustained jam cracks for 1 pitch- mostly good hands, with a short corner switch in the middle of it. Wonderful climbing. Jul 15, 2008
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
  5.10b
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
  5.10b
If you're going to do the Forest Finish, then do the whole thing and don't bail out at Table Ledge. The bottom of D7 or the Yellow Wall are both great ways to get to the route and the upper pitches are well worth the extra effort. This is a great route and in my opinion the second easiest route up the Diamond. Jul 23, 2007
Did this route 8/31/05 w/ Black Dagger finish to Table Ledge. The 2 'seldom climbed' pitches above Table are surprisingly challenging & a tad mossy, but totally beautiful and recommended if 1. time/weather allows, and 2. crowds on the Casual Route prevent you from traversing to the last 2 pitches of Yellow Wall. Steep climbing in a pretty wild location. More frequent ascents would clean up the cracks and lengthen an already amazing route. Probably wet in early season. Sep 26, 2005
ac
ac  
26 hrs? A2+? What happened up there? Big storm or something? Aug 23, 2005
William McGehee
Choctaw, OK
  5.10c
William McGehee   Choctaw, OK
  5.10c
Linking D7 up with the Forrest Finish is really an excellent combination. My only concern is that I became a tad confused with the upper reaches of the Forrest Finish and the actual line. It appears there are many possibilities, some easier than others, but all challenging nonetheless.

Regarding the offwidth crack, I found the climbing MUCH easier if approached in a fashion similar to the squeeze on the Casual Route. Should you be carrying a pack, sling it to your butt. Put the BIG gear on your waist so it doesn't hinder your progress, and just thrutch your way on up! WONDERFUL line indeed.

Finally, about 40 feet below Table Ledge, there is a bolted anchor with a chain, positioned underneath an aid climb. Anyone know what this aid line is? It's rather short, though I felt it was approximately A2+, according to Stewart Green's published grading scale. I'd sure like to know what it is called. Two pitons, a small nut placement, RURP, Copperhead, finally an optional small nut placement to get onto Table Ledge if it's wet (and dark...). Great day! Even if it did take 26 hours...

5.10c for the pump factor IMHO.

~Wm Aug 22, 2005
Fear turns to anger, anger turns to hate, and hate leads to suf~fer~ing. Aug 8, 2003
All quibbling aside, this route is freakin awesome and a great way to get up this wall at 5.10. The last pitch to almost table is as good as it gets and I'll never forget the position, exposure and perfect splitter to end the climb. -JG Jul 3, 2003
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
Joe- My comment was not meant to suggest that your description was inaccurate. I am glad that you posted the FF. I'm headed up there this weekend to check it (or the dagger) out for myself, and like most everybody else, I'll pass on the 5.11 traverse. Aug 27, 2002
Joe Collins  
 
Brian- it's not all that clear to me what you're trying to say from your comment, but I think I make it pretty clear in my description above that I've climbed the Forrest Finish (see the "climbed on" date). Aug 26, 2002
Brian Milhaupt
Golden, CO
Brian Milhaupt   Golden, CO
These semantic discussions are silly. Maybe you should not add routes that you have not climbed in full, and leave it so someone who has? Aug 26, 2002
Forget if it is the Yellow Wall proper or not, it is a spectacular finish. Steep, clean, and relentless. Hard for me to call it 5.10, but then what do I know about grades at that altitude.

The only exception I'd take to the above, is that there is no ow. When the crack diverges from the Yellow Wall, the section right above seemed to be about 5 feet of full on, body in the crack OW, or face climbing of at least a harder grade. Also, there was a second spot above that where I was full on knees and hand stacks. I guess you could skirt it if you are a strong face climber, but it sure was ow to me.

All the same, way good finish. Aug 19, 2002
Joe Collins  
 
I did not mean to imply that the persons who entered the Yellow Wall description did not climb the Yellow Wall. Given that this entry is supposed to describe the route, I didn't want to go into a lengthy discussion regarding what constitutes the "Yellow Wall" route. Instead I refer the reader to the Yellow Wall comments. Maybe I didn't get my point across very well, but all I'm trying to say is that we probably should have separate entries for the Forrest Finish and Yellow Wall (via the 11- R traverse and 10+ finish, both of which I have not done, BTW) with a comment somewhere regarding (for lack of a better name for the variation) Yellow Wall Jr. It's really just a matter of semantics over deciding what name goes to which route, but for such a famous route, we should probably stick with what has traditionally been called the "Yellow Wall" for the database entry. Jun 25, 2002