Avg: 3.9 from 115 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||FFA Bachar and Harrison, 1977|
|Page Views:||44,310 total · 177/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Levin on Apr 4, 2001 · Updates|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.
You have survived North Chimney. Now locate the bivy cave up and left from the top of North Chimney and Casual Route. Traverse left and low (below the loose ledge leading to Yellow Wall start) to an exposed, 4th Class or lower 5th Class step which leads to the second prominent left-facing corner system from the cave (the first being the 5.11 start to Yellow Wall).
Climb several pitches of finger and handcrack (5.9) in corners and around small flakes to a short wide section of low-end 5.10 (a couple of pieces to 4" useful here) to a good ledge and a fixed anchor. If aiding, this wide section may be the crux. Climb the right and smaller of 2 right-facing corners directly above to a continuous section of stiff 5.10 and belay. The free climbing crux looms above, a bulging section of white rock with parallel finger cracks splitting it (a fairly obvious feature). Launch upwards, then strut your stuff on the pumpy-to-protect 15 feet of technical pulls where the angle steepens- classic, clean, and exposed climbing. Belay on a small ledge, then climb a short difficult section (5.11a) leading to easier climbing and "Almost" Table Ledge (rap anchors). Climb the easier rock above to Table Ledge and traverse slightly left to anchors (start of the rappels, which are "climbers left" from the route) or further left to Kiener's and the North Face Cables descent.
4 to 8 hours climbing time, although aid parties may take much longer- consider a bivy on Broadway. There are several variations to this route (Soma and D Minor 7 are the major ones)and much opportunity for "mixing and matching" (it's even possible to head into Hidden Diamond or Curving Vine at one point), but really, D7 takes on the most compelling and recommended line between Pervertical and Yellow Wall.