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Routes in Royal Arches

1096 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Age of Industry S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Arches Terrace T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Arches Terrace Direct T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Arete Butler T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Astro Spam T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Benzoin and Edges AKA The Testes Squeeze T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Demimonde S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Double Trouble T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Endorphine S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Face Card T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fine Line T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Firefingers S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Greasy but Groovy T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Hershey Highway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Krovy Rookers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Maxine's Wall T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mid-Life Crisis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Move Like a Stud T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Peruvian Flake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peruvian flake right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poker Face S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rambler, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Royal Arches T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Arches Alt. Start - Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Royal Flush T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Royal Perogative T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rupto Pac T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Serenity Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Shaky Flakes T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Sons of Yesterday T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Super Slide T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Surf Nazi T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Surplus Cheaper Hands T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Texas Chainsaw Massacre T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Trial By Fire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed 5.3 T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Unnamed Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Violent Bear It Away, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Y Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,442 total, 34/month
Shared By: Colin Simon on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

17 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Slab climbing the whole way on dime-sized edges with tiny crimps to help you balance. Well-protected slab training.

Location

A few hundred feet east of the start of the Royal Arches route, in a small clearing. Roughly under the top of the 4th pitch of Royal Arches. Also check out Face Card (5.10c) just to the right.

Protection

17 draws, plus a couple for the anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
Hey Colin, honestly I am not sure about the exact number of the original bolts but I climbed it a few weeks after the first ascent by Dan and Sue McDevitt (1986) and remember there were a lot of them, certainly far more than 7 and like easily 17 and its a long pitch. Never, ever run out except a bit to the anchors. If you climb the route and realize that it was all done ground up, the drilling stances are nearly non-existent, and you are standing on 5.9 micro chips and drilling with no next stance visible the close spacing makes sense. All of the bolts were drilled with the previous below one's feet IIRC.

It is also likely that some old bolts were replaced giving some the impression that it had bolts added.

Regardless, Dan McDevitt is your huckleberry and will gladly and openly discuss his route with you. Aug 20, 2016
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
 
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
 
King Tut, could you provide more information to backup the idea that it originally had 17 bolts? I heard otherwise. Not saying it isn't true, but I heard conflicting information. Would love to hear more. May 21, 2016
King Tut
Citrus Heights
 
King Tut   Citrus Heights
 
This fine route was not retro-bolted in anyway to my knowledge as originally it was very tightly bolted. Their close nature is due to the continuous difficulty of the route and lack of comfortable stances for drilling. Falling off with a sharp drill in one hand and a hammer in the other is not fun and Dan and Sue did a great job given the nature of this pitch. Recommended. May 20, 2016
Kaleem Khwaja
Emeryville, California
 
Kaleem Khwaja   Emeryville, California
 
I was wondering how the Reid guide could be so off about the route height; didn't realize the anchor had been extended. Luckily we brought the 70m, which just touched the ground with rope stretch.

From bolt 3 to 17 I don't think there's a single move that isn't 5.9-10a. What a great line!

I also highly recommend Aces and Eights (11b) next door, the crux lower half of which you can TR from Poker Face. Really nice bouldery crux at the first bolt. May 29, 2013
Christina Freschl
Berkeley, California
 
Christina Freschl   Berkeley, California
 
The anchor has also been extended to around 130ft. One 70m rope will make it to the ground. Feb 20, 2013
FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue (Bonovich) McDevitt, 3/1986 Mar 7, 2012
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
17 bolts, that's confirmed as of this weekend. Looks like it was retro'd. First fifteen bolts are ridiculously close to one another - clipping while the last bolt is at your shoes. You can easily skip bolts.

Then the last two bolts to the anchor are a bit more run, still super safe, and probably more in keeping with how the line was first protected.

FA: Dan McDevitt et al. No idea on who added bolts, if bolts were truly added. Jan 20, 2012
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
 
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
 
Alexey, I'm pretty sure it's 17 bolts now, but I heard it used to be 7. Definitely not spicy anymore. Jan 21, 2010
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
 
when I did it mid summer, the fixed slings at the anchor were full of mud and debris - looks like this route doesn't get done very often... which is too bad because it is an awesome route. the top half alternates between manky bolt/good bolt but luckily there are so many it doesn't really matter. crux down low getting off a stance but then sustained at 5.9-10a most of the rest of the way. Jan 12, 2010
Alexey
San Jose
Alexey   San Jose
Are you sure about 17 bolts on 90 ft?- probably just seven? Sep 2, 2009