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Areas in West Stronghold

Behind Sweet Rock 0 / 7 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Gap, The 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome) 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hands Canyon 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hideout Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Isle of You 5 / 35 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 40
Low Dome (Indian Rock) Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Naiche's Nest 0 / 6 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Ol' Western Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Paleface Slab 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Pile of You 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Serenity Slab 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Sheepshead Area (Southwest) 25 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 40
Squaretop 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sweet Rock 1 / 20 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Tombstone, The 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Warpath Dome 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Westworld Dome 8 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
Whale Dome 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Window Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Elevation: 5,146 ft
GPS: 31.93, -110.01 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 189,871 total · 2,428/month
Shared By: Geir on Feb 16, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
Getting weather forecast...

Description

The West Stronghold is accessed from Middlemarch Road near Tombstone. Geographically the West Stronghold includes a much larger area than the east. Gems include Westworld Dome, Whale Dome, the Sheepshead, and about 1,000 unpublished routes waiting to be repeated.

A Google Earth .kmz file can be downloaded for this area using the link below:

geir.com/googleearth/strong…

Access to this area is a privilege. Be a good steward of Cochise Stronghold by keeping the Leave No Trace principles in mind when visiting here. Below is a partial list of these principles and how they might be applied in the Stronghold. For further information, visitlnt.org.

1) Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Stay on trails and avoid damaging surface vegetation. Use established campsites.

2) Dispose of waste properly. Pack out litter. Dispose of human waste in a cathole at least 6-8 inches deep and 200 feet away from water. Do not leave toilet paper out in the wilderness.

3) Leave what you find. Leave rocks, plants, archaeological artifacts and other objects as found.

4) Minimize use and impact of fire. If a campfire is constructed use existing fire rings. Do not cut down trees for firewood. Ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving.

5) Respect wildlife. If enough people approach or interfere with wildlife, it can be disruptive to animal populations.

6) Be considerate of other visitors. Many other people enjoy the area, including bird watchers, hikers, and horseback riders. They have as much right to be there as climbers.

Getting There

From Tucson take I-10 east to exit 303.

Bear right on to highway 80 and head through Benson (2.2 miles).

Once through Benson keep right on to highway 80 and continue 21.7 miles to Middlemarch Road.

Turn left on Middlemarch road and continue for 9.9 miles. (This is a dirt road and can be rough but is passable by passenger cars so long as the washes are not full of water.)

Turn left on to forest road 687. (The road becomes rougher and is passable by passenger cars only when driven carefully. Your car can be damaged on this road, please be careful). The following mileage measurements are all relative to this intersection:

0.4 miles - Sheepshead parking area, free primitive camping.

2.0 miles - Sweet Rock, Isle of You (Ewe), free primitive camping.

6.5 miles - Parking for Warpath dome approach.

7.2 miles - Large private ranch

10.1 miles - end of the road. Parking for Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Paleface, Ghost Dome, and Squaretop. Free primitive camping.

160 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Stronghold

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 96
OK Corral
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 231
Moby Dick
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 296
Ewephoria
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 82
Whatchamacallit
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 68
Kit Kat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 125
Mystery of the Desert
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 60
Pay Day
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 95
Isle of You
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 225
The Peacemaker
Sport 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 86
Peanut Brittle
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 161
Absinthe of Mallet
Trad 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 77
The Climb Too Tough To Die
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 68
Jizzneyland
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 128
Warpaint
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 58
Stampede
Sport 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
OK Corral Isle of You > Trad Rock
 96
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Moby Dick Whale Dome
 231
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Ewephoria Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 296
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Whatchamacallit Sweet Rock
 82
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Kit Kat Sweet Rock
 68
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mystery of the Desert Sheepshead Area… > Muttonhead
 125
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Pay Day Sweet Rock
 60
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Isle of You Isle of You > Trad Rock
 95
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Peacemaker Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 225
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 7 pitches
Peanut Brittle Sweet Rock
 86
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Absinthe of Mallet Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 161
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
The Climb Too Tough To Die Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 77
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Jizzneyland Isle of You > Trad Rock
 68
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Warpaint Westworld Dome
 128
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Stampede Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 58
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in West Stronghold »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
My wife and son and I replaced the bashed hanger on pitch 3 (2nd bolt) on Ewephoria last Saturday. The nut and threads seemed to work just fine. John Wason
Feb 5, 2013
JackWeaver
Greenville, south Carolina
JackWeaver   Greenville, south Carolina
If you're trying to get to Whale Dome is there any reason one couldn't drive in from the North taking exit 312 from I-10? It's much shorter than heading down to Tombstone, then back up on Middlemarch. It will be my first time to the west side so I want to be sure. Dec 3, 2013
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
You will encounter locked gates that you need a code to open. Dec 3, 2013
In the upper left corner of the photo above you'll see a dark triangle.
This is where a refrigerator sized block cut loose and, apparently, smooshed a hanger.
I hadn't noticed any damage or scarring.
Thanks for replacing the hanger! Mar 13, 2014
AGough  
Any info on Elsie the Cow? Always looked impressive every time I walked by it. I think its worthy of its own page.

Cochise goes to Chicago and another route...wide 9ish?? Aug 19, 2014
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
Elsie the Cow Wall from the old Bob Kerry Backcountry book.

Go climb it and post it up! Aug 19, 2014

The new COCHISE STRONGHOLD: Rock Climbing on the West Side Guide just became available. Check out the 375+ routes found in it. cochiseclimbing.com Jan 10, 2017
David Ellis
Tucson
David Ellis   Tucson
FOUND A BACKPACK WITH CLIMBING GEAR: At the end of the road on 3/10/18, we found a pack with a bunch of climbing gear. Message me if you think it is yours. Mar 11, 2018

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