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Elevation: 5,146 ft 1,569 m
GPS: 31.9299, -110.0095
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 627,400 total · 4,196/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Feb 16, 2012
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

The West Stronghold is accessed from Middlemarch Road near Tombstone. Geographically the West Stronghold includes a much larger area than the east. Gems include Westworld Dome, Whale Dome, the Sheepshead, and about 1,000 unpublished routes waiting to be repeated.

A Google Earth .kmz file can be downloaded for this area using the link below:

geir.com/googleearth/strong…

Access to this area is a privilege. Be a good steward of Cochise Stronghold by keeping the Leave No Trace principles in mind when visiting here. Below is a partial list of these principles and how they might be applied in the Stronghold. For further information, visit lnt.org.

1) Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Stay on trails and avoid damaging surface vegetation. Use established campsites.

2) Dispose of waste properly. Pack out litter. Dispose of human waste in a cathole at least 6-8 inches deep and 200 feet away from water. Do not leave toilet paper out in the wilderness.

3) Leave what you find. Leave rocks, plants, archaeological artifacts and other objects as found.

4) Minimize use and impact of fire. If a campfire is constructed use existing fire rings. Do not cut down trees for firewood. Ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving.

5) Respect wildlife. If enough people approach or interfere with wildlife, it can be disruptive to animal populations.

6) Be considerate of other visitors. Many other people enjoy the area, including bird watchers, hikers, and horseback riders. They have as much right to be there as climbers.

Getting There Suggest change

From Tucson take I-10 east to exit 303.

Bear right on to highway 80 and head through Benson (2.2 miles).

Once through Benson keep right on to highway 80 and continue 21.7 miles to Middlemarch Road.

Turn left on Middlemarch road and continue for 9.9 miles. (This is a dirt road and can be rough but is passable by passenger cars so long as the washes are not full of water.)

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Turn left on to forest road 687. (The road becomes rougher and is passable by passenger cars only when driven carefully. Your car can be damaged on this road, please be careful). The following mileage measurements are all relative to this intersection:

0.4 miles - Sheepshead parking area, free primitive camping.

2.0 miles - Sweet Rock, Isle of You (Ewe), free primitive camping.

6.5 miles - Parking for Warpath dome approach.

7.2 miles - Large private ranch

10.1 miles - end of the road. Parking for Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Paleface, Ghost Dome, and Squaretop. Free primitive camping.

338 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Stronghold

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 337
Moby Dick
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 490
Ewephoria
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 229
Mystery of the Desert
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 380
The Peacemaker
Sport 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 246
Absinthe of Mallet
Trad 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 177
Warpaint
Trad 5 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 56
Fire in the Hole
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 69
Get The Flock Out Of Here
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 45
Tombstone Crack
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 87
Stampede
Sport 7 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 36
Coati Corner
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 32
Stiletto
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 26
Sheep Thrills
Trad, Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 20
Old School Executioner
Trad
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Laid to Rest
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Moby Dick Whale Dome
 337
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Ewephoria Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 490
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Mystery of the Desert Sheepshead Area… > Muttonhead
 229
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Peacemaker Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 380
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 7 pitches
Absinthe of Mallet Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 246
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
Warpaint Westworld Dome
 177
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Fire in the Hole Isle of Ewe > Rad Rock
 56
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Get The Flock Out Of Here Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 69
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Tombstone Crack Hands Canyon > Tombstone
 45
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Stampede Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 87
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 7 pitches
Coati Corner Westworld Dome
 36
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Stiletto Hands Canyon > Tombstone
 32
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Sheep Thrills Sheepshead Area… > Crisis Center
 26
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Old School Executioner Hands Canyon > Tombstone
 20
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad
Laid to Rest Hands Canyon > Tombstone
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Trad
More Classic Climbs in West Stronghold »

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