Elevation: 5,146 ft
GPS: 31.93, -110.01 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 356,726 total · 3,491/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Feb 16, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

The West Stronghold is accessed from Middlemarch Road near Tombstone. Geographically the West Stronghold includes a much larger area than the east. Gems include Westworld Dome, Whale Dome, the Sheepshead, and about 1,000 unpublished routes waiting to be repeated.

A Google Earth .kmz file can be downloaded for this area using the link below:

geir.com/googleearth/strong…

Access to this area is a privilege. Be a good steward of Cochise Stronghold by keeping the Leave No Trace principles in mind when visiting here. Below is a partial list of these principles and how they might be applied in the Stronghold. For further information, visitlnt.org.

1) Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Stay on trails and avoid damaging surface vegetation. Use established campsites.

2) Dispose of waste properly. Pack out litter. Dispose of human waste in a cathole at least 6-8 inches deep and 200 feet away from water. Do not leave toilet paper out in the wilderness.

3) Leave what you find. Leave rocks, plants, archaeological artifacts and other objects as found.

4) Minimize use and impact of fire. If a campfire is constructed use existing fire rings. Do not cut down trees for firewood. Ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving.

5) Respect wildlife. If enough people approach or interfere with wildlife, it can be disruptive to animal populations.

6) Be considerate of other visitors. Many other people enjoy the area, including bird watchers, hikers, and horseback riders. They have as much right to be there as climbers.

Getting There

From Tucson take I-10 east to exit 303.

Bear right on to highway 80 and head through Benson (2.2 miles).

Once through Benson keep right on to highway 80 and continue 21.7 miles to Middlemarch Road.

Turn left on Middlemarch road and continue for 9.9 miles. (This is a dirt road and can be rough but is passable by passenger cars so long as the washes are not full of water.)

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Turn left on to forest road 687. (The road becomes rougher and is passable by passenger cars only when driven carefully. Your car can be damaged on this road, please be careful). The following mileage measurements are all relative to this intersection:

0.4 miles - Sheepshead parking area, free primitive camping.

2.0 miles - Sweet Rock, Isle of You (Ewe), free primitive camping.

6.5 miles - Parking for Warpath dome approach.

7.2 miles - Large private ranch

10.1 miles - end of the road. Parking for Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Paleface, Ghost Dome, and Squaretop. Free primitive camping.

206 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Stronghold

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 118
OK Corral
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 273
Moby Dick
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 370
Ewephoria
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 104
Whatchamacallit
Sport 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 90
Kit Kat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 165
Mystery of the Desert
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 104
Peanut Brittle
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 89
Pay Day
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 107
Isle of You
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 285
The Peacemaker
Sport 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 195
Absinthe of Mallet
Trad 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 99
The Climb Too Tough To Die
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 79
Jizzneyland
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 145
Warpaint
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
Stampede
Sport 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
OK Corral Isle of You > Trad Rock
 118
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Moby Dick Whale Dome
 273
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Ewephoria Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 370
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Whatchamacallit Sweet Rock
 104
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Kit Kat Sweet Rock
 90
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Mystery of the Desert Sheepshead Area… > Muttonhead
 165
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Peanut Brittle Sweet Rock
 104
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Pay Day Sweet Rock
 89
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Isle of You Isle of You > Trad Rock
 107
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Peacemaker Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 285
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 7 pitches
Absinthe of Mallet Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 195
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
The Climb Too Tough To Die Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 99
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Jizzneyland Isle of You > Trad Rock
 79
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Warpaint Westworld Dome
 145
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Stampede Sheepshead Area… > Sheepshead
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in West Stronghold »

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