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Areas in West Stronghold

Behind Sweet Rock 0 / 7 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Gap, The 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome) 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hands Canyon 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hideout Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Isle of You 2 / 27 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Low Dome (Indian Rock) Area 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Naiche's Nest 0 / 6 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Ol' Western Peak 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Paleface Slab 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Pile of You 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Serenity Slab 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Sheepshead Area (Southwest) 25 / 16 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 40
Squaretop 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Sweet Rock 1 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Tombstone, The 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Warpath Dome 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Westworld Dome 8 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 9
Whale Dome 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Window Dome 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Description

The West Stronghold is accessed from Middlemarch Road near Tombstone. Geographically the West Stronghold includes a much larger area than the east. Gems include Westworld Dome, Whale Dome, the Sheepshead, and about 1,000 unpublished routes waiting to be repeated.

A Google Earth .kmz file can be downloaded for this area using the link below:

http://www.geir.com/googleearth/stronghold/west/overview.kmz

Access to this area is a privilege. Be a good steward of Cochise Stronghold by keeping the Leave No Trace principles in mind when visiting here. Below is a partial list of these principles and how they might be applied in the Stronghold. For further information, visit www.lnt.org.

1) Travel and camp on durable surfaces. Stay on trails and avoid damaging surface vegetation. Use established campsites.

2) Dispose of waste properly. Pack out litter. Dispose of human waste in a cathole at least 6-8 inches deep and 200 feet away from water. Do not leave toilet paper out in the wilderness.

3) Leave what you find. Leave rocks, plants, archaeological artifacts and other objects as found.

4) Minimize use and impact of fire. If a campfire is constructed use existing fire rings. Do not cut down trees for firewood. Ensure campfires are completely extinguished before leaving.

5) Respect wildlife. If enough people approach or interfere with wildlife, it can be disruptive to animal populations.

6) Be considerate of other visitors. Many other people enjoy the area, including bird watchers, hikers, and horseback riders. They have as much right to be there as climbers.

Getting There

From Tucson take I-10 east to exit 303.

Bear right on to highway 80 and head through Benson (2.2 miles).

Once through Benson keep right on to highway 80 and continue 21.7 miles to Middlemarch Road.

Turn left on Middlemarch road and continue for 9.9 miles. (This is a dirt road and can be rough but is passable by passenger cars so long as the washes are not full of water.)

Turn left on to forest road 687. (The road becomes rougher and is passable by passenger cars only when driven carefully. Your car can be damaged on this road, please be careful). The following mileage measurements are all relative to this intersection:

0.4 miles - Sheepshead parking area, free primitive camping.

2.0 miles - Sweet Rock, Isle of You (Ewe), free primitive camping.

6.5 miles - Parking for Warpath dome approach.

7.2 miles - Large private ranch

10.1 miles - end of the road. Parking for Whale Dome, Westworld Dome, Paleface, Ghost Dome, and Squaretop. Free primitive camping.

146 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at West Stronghold

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
OK Corral
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Moby Dick
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ewephoria
Trad 5 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whatchamacallit
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mystery of the Desert
Trad 5 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pay Day
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Isle of You
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
The Peacemaker
Sport 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peanut Brittle
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Absinthe of Mallet
Trad 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
The Climb Too Tough To Die
Trad 6 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jizzneyland
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cragaholic's Dream
Trad 6 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Warpaint
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stampede
Sport 7 pitches
OK Corral Isle of You > Trad Rock 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Moby Dick Whale Dome 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 6 pitches
Ewephoria Sheepshead Area (… > Sheepshead 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Whatchamacallit Sweet Rock 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Mystery of the Desert Sheepshead Area (… > Muttonhead 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
Pay Day Sweet Rock 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Isle of You Isle of You > Trad Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Peacemaker Sheepshead Area (… > Sheepshead 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 7 pitches
Peanut Brittle Sweet Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Absinthe of Mallet Sheepshead Area (… > Sheepshead 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
The Climb Too Tough To Die Sheepshead Area (… > Sheepshead 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Jizzneyland Isle of You > Trad Rock 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cragaholic's Dream Squaretop 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Warpaint Westworld Dome 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Stampede Sheepshead Area (… > Sheepshead 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in West Stronghold »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Just heard that FS 687 has been re-graded to the Road's End. Now you can get there in a regular car. Oct 17, 2017
I was there yesterday in a Subaru Outback (AWD, steel undercarriage)... Road was no problem up to the Ranch, but the last 3 miles to Road's End were basically impassable, looks like much of the road has been washed away. Had to turn around 1.5 miles in. Basically driving through boulder fields, and difficult to distinguish the road from the huge washes. I would not attempt again without a heavy duty Jeep or truck. Sep 10, 2017

The new COCHISE STRONGHOLD: Rock Climbing on the West Side Guide just became available. Check out the 375+ routes found in it. cochiseclimbing.com Jan 10, 2017
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
Elsie the Cow Wall from the old Bob Kerry Backcountry book.

Go climb it and post it up! Aug 19, 2014
AGough  
Any info on Elsie the Cow? Always looked impressive every time I walked by it. I think its worthy of its own page.

Cochise goes to Chicago and another route...wide 9ish?? Aug 19, 2014
In the upper left corner of the photo above you'll see a dark triangle.
This is where a refrigerator sized block cut loose and, apparently, smooshed a hanger.
I hadn't noticed any damage or scarring.
Thanks for replacing the hanger! Mar 13, 2014
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
You will encounter locked gates that you need a code to open. Dec 3, 2013
JackWeaver
Greenville, south Carolina
JackWeaver   Greenville, south Carolina
If you're trying to get to Whale Dome is there any reason one couldn't drive in from the North taking exit 312 from I-10? It's much shorter than heading down to Tombstone, then back up on Middlemarch. It will be my first time to the west side so I want to be sure. Dec 3, 2013
My wife and son and I replaced the bashed hanger on pitch 3 (2nd bolt) on Ewephoria last Saturday. The nut and threads seemed to work just fine. John Wason
Feb 5, 2013

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