Elevation: 6,165 ft
GPS: 31.87, -109.994 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 99,413 total · 458/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Sep 3, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

The Sheepshead, this area's namesake, is the huge sweeping dome visible during most of the drive in on Middlemarch Road. It is by far the most prominent and aesthetic piece of rock in the immediate area, though there are a multitude of quality routes on the smaller neighboring domes.

Over 40 routes ascend this vast expanse of granite, most being of moderate to high difficulty (5.9-5.11, Class III). There are some incredible multi-pitch climbs with fantastic exposure. The rock quality is great for the most part, but does contain the occasional loose feature. Routefinding is generally difficult, even with a good topo. Expect scary climbing and frequent runouts on moderate terrain.

For those willing to put in a full day, The Sheepshead offers true adventure climbing.

Getting There

From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road north. Make the first right turn on a dirt road that leads past a windmill to the road's end. Park and hike across the grassy field toward the obvious domes.

When you approach the treeline across the grassy field, trend right toward a major drainage, keeping south of the smaller hills. A trail should vaguely follow this drainage course, leading up the valley below The Sheepshead. If you cannot pick up a trail, just follow the path of least resistance. Make sure you close any gates you may pass along the way.

The trail/drainage course will take you to a point directly under but far below the base of the dome. At this point, a small climber's trail will head off right, up the slope towards Sheepshead. Navigate the brush and slabs up to the base of the climbs.

Allow an hour for the approach. Plan for a long day.

20 Total Climbs

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Location: The Sheepshead Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Sheepshead

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 370
Ewephoria
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 44
Ides of Middlemarch
Trad 5 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 285
The Peacemaker
Sport 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 55
Phony Pony
Trad 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 195
Absinthe of Mallet
Trad 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 99
The Climb Too Tough To Die
Trad 6 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 32
The Tombstone Stripper
Trad 6 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 12
Bruise the Rooster
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 48
Dark Horse
Trad 6 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Animal Husbandry
Sport 2 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 48
Get The Flock Out Of Here
Trad 5 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 25
Unmitigated Audacity
Sport 7 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 4
Bantam of the Opera
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
Stampede
Sport 7 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 12
Mad Cow Disease
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ewephoria
 370
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Ides of Middlemarch
 44
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
The Peacemaker
 285
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 7 pitches
Phony Pony
 55
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Absinthe of Mallet
 195
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
The Climb Too Tough To Die
 99
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
The Tombstone Stripper
 32
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 6 pitches
Bruise the Rooster
 12
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 2 pitches
Dark Horse
 48
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Animal Husbandry
 8
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Get The Flock Out Of Here
 48
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Unmitigated Audacity
 25
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport 7 pitches
Bantam of the Opera
 4
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport 2 pitches
Stampede
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 7 pitches
Mad Cow Disease
 12
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 6 pitches
More Classic Climbs in The Sheepshead »

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