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Routes in The Sheepshead

Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Greedy Little Varmint T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 650 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Ayers, Steve Haire & Steve Amter (1987). Scott Ayers, Tanya Bok & Avi Steinburg
Page Views: 4,664 total · 37/month
Shared By: Geir on Apr 28, 2008
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

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This is a fun, challenging route with a variety of climbing and quality rock. You will encounter laybacks, slab climbing, a few thin face moves, and some strenuous crack moves.

To locate the route, walk about 200' uphill from the start of Ewephoria. Here you will find a clearly defined staging area next to a 30' right facing corner. The first pitch starts on the crack to the right of the corner. Three bolts are visible along the crack.

Pitch 1 (5.10, 100'): Climb the crack, passing three bolts. At the end of the crack, make a strenuous reach (5.10) to a handhold on the right and move under a roof. Move up and left to a spot where you can pull the roof (5.9). Move left a few feet to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.7, 125'): Follow the bolts up the slab to an anchor under a roof.

Pitch 3 (5.10+, 170'): Pull the roof (5.10a/b) following bolts past two ledges. The crux lies just above the first ledge. Be cautious - a combination of rope stretch and lack of visibility for your belayer could easily lead to a tweaked ankle in this spot.

Pitch 4 (5.10, 140'): This is the best pitch of the climb. Head up and left following two bolts to a short gully which narrows to a handcrack. The handcrack moves are strenuous. At the top of the handcrack traverse right underneath a roof to a bolted anchor at a small stance.

Pitch 5 (5.10+, 110'): Layback a short, difficult crack section (5.10+). The crack narrows to 1" after about 25'. At this point move left to face climbing (5.10) along a series of bolts leading to the summit.

A topo for this climb can be found here:


Standard rack to #4 camalot, doubles #.75 to #3.


Daniel Cohn  
This is a challenging and fun way up Sheepshead. The route seemed more like 600 feet than 700. Cams up to Camalot #4 and a lot of draws were sufficient for pro. I liked having doubles of 1 and .75. The cracks are mostly parallel sided so I did not place a lot of nuts. Depending on your strengths, the crux of the climb might be on different pitches. For us, the last 2 pitches were just as hard as the third one. However it is hard to compare crack and thin face. We slung a boulder at the second huge ledge above pitch 3. It is also possible to climb ~30 feet above it and use 2 bolts for a hanging belay. Mar 22, 2009
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
We did just the 1st pitch after climbing Muttonhead. I thought it was one of the best pitches I've climbed so far in Cochise, and is definitely worth doing on its own if you're looking for a bit more climbing at the end of the day. A 70 got us down comfortably and a 60 would probably work with care. Nov 29, 2009
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
Great Route! The fourth pitch is great specially the traverse under the roof. We took doubles from .3-3 BD and a 4 BD. A must do! Oct 7, 2012
The 1st and especially the 5th pitch were two of the best pitches I've done in the Stronghold.
The middle section of the third pitch was 2 letter grades harder than anything else on the climb. I was stoked to have not fallen off it, cause it was really close.

The traverse under the roof on pitch 4 is solid 5.10. So don't believe Geir's topo. He's climbing too well to rate stuff any more.

One #4 cam is sufficient you'll only use it on the fourth pitch. Oct 16, 2012
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Hahaha Jim I am becoming a sandbagger! Crap!

No problem, I will fix the topo. Oct 17, 2012
Did this a few weeks back, pretty fun. I thought the first pitch was one of the best pitches I've done on the Sheepshead. 4 and 5 and really good too. Dec 11, 2012
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
This route is called "Get The Flock Out Of Here" and the FA is indeed Scott Ayers. May 8, 2013
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
updated May 8, 2013
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
It's great to be able to finally call this thing by its real name, and much easier to communicate with other people about it.

This route is a classic, go get on it!

P.S. IIRC, on the low crux of the fifth pitch, where the gear is bomber but there's a possibility you'll collide with your belayer if you fall, a grigri might be a wise choice. Oct 22, 2013
Larry   SoAZ
One way to deal with the crux-directly-above-the-hanging-belay problem is to lengthen the belayer's tie-in considerably. Feb 3, 2015
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
Excellent and stout and except p2 pretty dang hard throughout. 4 out of 5 stars and one of the better multipitch outings under .11 in the stronghold. Just barely under .11.... Reasonable protection except p3 crux fall almost turned out bad for me there. A 00 metolious in a placement a couple feet above the crux bolt may help keep you off the ledge. I cleaned this out w a nut tool and used it after testing the bolt, cause I didn't want to fall upside down within a few feet of the ledge a second time. Purple c3 might work here. All I had was zero met. and it was just 2 good lobes. Nov 21, 2015
Chad A. Brown
Lawrence, Kansas
Chad A. Brown   Lawrence, Kansas
What is the Beta on the descent? Is it recommended to rap the route with doubles? is there a single rope rap option? is there a walkoff? This info is normally on MP but I couldn't find it for this area... Possible I just missed it. Dec 15, 2015
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
There is a walk-off, joining the standard walk-off to get off the Sheepshead i.e. the gully between the Sheepshead and the Muttonhead (which is climber's left).

Trying to rappel a route with traversing pitches like P4 on this route might be problematic, to say the least. Dec 15, 2015
Lucas gibson
Tucson, Arizona
Lucas gibson   Tucson, Arizona
good climb, didn't place the three or two, having a four is a good idea doubles in .5 and .75 are nice Apr 27, 2016
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
lots of great hard climbing, however the rock quality drifts from impeccable to kitty litter at many points throughout the route which prevents this climb from being a classic in my opinion.

also geir's topo calls p3 5.10 but i felt like this was the crux pitch of the entire climb. Nov 11, 2016

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