All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (… > The Sheepshead
Avg: 2.8 from 40 votes
Routes in The Sheepshead
|Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Greedy Little Varmint T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Scott Ayers, Steve Amter, Avi Steinburg, Dave Burke, Charlie King & Tanya Bok|
|Page Views:||5,366 total, 46/month|
|Shared By:||Geir on Apr 13, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis climb has a wide variety of climbing, including chimney, crack, face, and slab, making it interesting and challenging at the grade.
A topo for this is available at http://toofasttopos.com/free/
Pitch 1 (50 feet, 5.8) -- climb up past two bolts and a few traditional placements to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (120 feet, 5.10a) -- make a hard move to the right, clipping a bolt. Then climb up past one more bolt to a nice crack. Continue up the crack, staying to your left at a bulge, where the crack widens to a short chimney. At the top of the chimney bear right and climb up past a few more bolts to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up on a slightly run-out, but easy terrain to a series of bolts. Continue along the bolts until the climb bears left to a sloping ledge with a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (140 feet, hard 5.9) -- climb up and right past bolts and interesting face climbing. After about 5 bolts, the climbing eases off a bit to lower angle climbing. Pass over a diagonal crack which takes some gear and continue up to a nice ledge with a two bolt anchor and rap rings. Note that this anchor is one of the rappel stations for the descent.
Pitch 5 (100 feet, 5.9) -- climb up past two bolts and into a chimney. The chimney narrows to offwidth as you climb higher and face holds appear on your left. Move on to the face and continue up to a two bolt anchor with rap rings.
-From the end of pitch 5, rappel 100' to the anchor for pitch 4.
-From the pitch 4 anchor, rappel straight down about 80' to an anchor on your right.
-Rappel from this anchor 50' to a large ledge with vegetation.
-Scramble down and climber's left about 30' to a small flat area by a large tree. Hidden about 10' to climber's left is a rappel anchor on a mildly exposed slab.
-From this anchor, rappel 95' straight down to the steep gully, where you will find yet another anchor.
-From here, rappel down the gully about 70 feet. Scramble to your packs.
- While the descent can be done with a single 60 meter rope, it is advised that you use two ropes for this climb in case retreat is necessary before finishing pitch 4.