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Greedy Little Varmint
5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British
Avg: 2.4 from 8
votes
Routes in The Sheepshead
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Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Direct South Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Great Pig in the Sty S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Greedy Little Varmint T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0 |
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Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phony Pony T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Poultry Emulsion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ranch Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shepherd, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13 |
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Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III |
| GPS: | 31.87031, -109.99388 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 7,163 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | John Peterson on Apr 18, 2007 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Location, Description, Protection, and Sermon
Hiding in plain sight intermingled with Ewephoria is one of the best routes on Sheepshead. GLV is entirely natural - not a bolt anywhere. While it's doubtful it will ever get as much traffic as its alter-ego, this route is well worth doing. Ewephoria is a re-imagining of the GLV, providing alternative bolted pitches. It's not a rebolting of GLV.
Pitch 1: Same as Ewephoria, except at the top of the crack downclimb left to a ledge to belay. Ignore the bolts if you can! (5.7+)
Pitch 2: Climb up excellect rock on the left side of the ledge. This pitch had just enough natural pro to be safe but it was still a bit spicy. Finish a bit right to the bottom of a grungy dihedral. (5.7+)
Pitch 3: Climb the dihedral (almost a gully). Brush and a little loose rock make this pitch forgetable. I used to lead it without pro so the second could climb the clean slab to the left. Belay on a good ledge. (5.3)
Pitch 4: Climb up and left to a chickenhead covered face. Follow these up to a hanging belay from the topmost ones. Great climbing. (5.6).
Pitch 5: Angle right to an intermittent crack leading diagonally right to a corner which slants back left. Another spicy lead. Belay on the big ledge below the summit. (5.7+).
Pitch 6: Up the wide crack to the top. (5.6).
Back in the day (about 20 years ago) I suggested to Scott that a bolt or two on the slab to the left of P3 would be a good idea. At the time he just laughed and talked about all the people who had climbed the slab with no pro. Things have obviously changed!
Unfortunately I haven't been able to do Ewephoria (always been a line there when I've returned) so I don't know how GLV and Ewephoria relate to each other.
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