All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (… > The Sheepshead
Greedy Little Varmint
Avg: 2.2 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||4,913 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Apr 18, 2007|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
Location, Description, Protection, and SermonHiding in plain sight intermingled with Ewephoria is one of the best routes on Sheepshead. GLV is entirely natural - not a bolt anywhere. While it's doubtful it will ever get as much traffic as its alter-ego, this route is well worth doing. Ewephoria is a re-imagining of the GLV, providing alternative bolted pitches. It's not a rebolting of GLV.
Pitch 1: Same as Ewephoria, except at the top of the crack downclimb left to a ledge to belay. Ignore the bolts if you can! (5.7+)
Pitch 2: Climb up excellect rock on the left side of the ledge. This pitch had just enough natural pro to be safe but it was still a bit spicy. Finish a bit right to the bottom of a grungy dihedral. (5.7+)
Pitch 3: Climb the dihedral (almost a gully). Brush and a little loose rock make this pitch forgetable. I used to lead it without pro so the second could climb the clean slab to the left. Belay on a good ledge. (5.3)
Pitch 4: Climb up and left to a chickenhead covered face. Follow these up to a hanging belay from the topmost ones. Great climbing. (5.6).
Pitch 5: Angle right to an intermittent crack leading diagonally right to a corner which slants back left. Another spicy lead. Belay on the big ledge below the summit. (5.7+).
Pitch 6: Up the wide crack to the top. (5.6).
Back in the day (about 20 years ago) I suggested to Scott that a bolt or two on the slab to the left of P3 would be a good idea. At the time he just laughed and talked about all the people who had climbed the slab with no pro. Things have obviously changed!
Unfortunately I haven't been able to do Ewephoria (always been a line there when I've returned) so I don't know how GLV and Ewephoria relate to each other.