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Routes in The Sheepshead

Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Greedy Little Varmint T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers & Avi Steinburg
Page Views: 1,029 total, 21/month
Shared By: cochiseclimbing on Oct 14, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

P1- Follow a shallow right-facing corner for 25ft to reach the first bolt and keep climbing to a ledge. Steep moves gain a right-facing flake which gain the anchor. 5.9-, 100'

P2- This is the best pitch on this wall. Climb a beautiful right-leaning seam to an anchor. 5.10-, 90'

Location

Upper northwest side of the Sheepshead. These routes are uphill from Ewephoria and the first routes encountered when walking off the Sheepshead.

Protection

Bolts, pro to 3"

Photos

Great to see people exploring the "new" climbs in the area with the new guidebook. Can't wait to get you on the East Side climbs. Mar 15, 2017
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Great climb. You can (and should) lead both pitches in 1 with a 60 meter rope. Sling long on the first pitch and rope drag will be minimal, then leave extra gear at the first pitch anchors and just bring 9-10 quickdraws & anchor setup for the second pitch. No noticeable runouts, 2nd pitch is very safely bolted. If anything the 1st pitch is slightly spooky since the rock quality isn't perfect.

Jan 29, 2017
Dana Ernst  
 
This is a fun route. The first pitch is a bit run out at the top if I remember correctly. Dec 17, 2013