Type: Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Scott Ayers & Mark Colby
Page Views: 17,901 total · 91/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Mar 11, 2008 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

A fully bolted route with quality rock. Seven pitches, all of which are at least 5.10a.

[EDIT 1/2/14]

Apparently, Bob Kerry's description of this route was insufficient. It has been five years since this thing was been posted and nobody mentioned that to me. My bad, so here is a pitch by pitch description:

Rack: Quickdraws only.

Pitch 1 (5.11-, 100’): Clip two bolts, then pull a difficult (10+) roof to establish yourself on the slab. Continue up the slab on increasingly difficult moves to an anchor on a ledge.

Pitch 2 (5.11-, 60’):  Traverse left, clipping two bolts. Pull around the arête (11-), then continue up and left to the anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10, 110’): Climb up and left where you'll encounter a long reach move near the third bolt (10c). The route arcs back to the right on airy, exposed climbing to the anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.10-, 140’): Work through 5.10- climbing past three bolts, after which the climbing eases off on more runout terrain. Belay at a ledge below and to the left of a large pine tree.

Pitch 5 (5.10, 130’):  Climb up and slightly left to a crux near the 5th bolt (10c). The climbing eases off and continues to a two bolt anchor at the right side of a large ledge.

Transfer the belay left: Walk left along the ledge a total of 160’. You’ll pass by a tree at about 100’ and a two bolt anchor 30 feet beyond the tree. Your anchor is the second two bolt anchor 30’ past the first one.

Pitch 6 (10+/11-, 100’): Climb the chossy looking face (10b) and work up more slab (10+/11-) to a two bolt anchor next to a shrub. Another anchor is directly left on the other side of the shrub, an easy 50’ pitch is possible here to escape to the top. Cams from 2-4” are needed for the anchor if you exit this way.

Pitch 7 (5.10+, 50’): Climb the shallow trough past three bolts to the top.


Bob Kerry's description of the route can be found at climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…

A detailed topo for this route can be downloaded at toofasttopos.com/free/

Location Suggest change

Starts in the gully on the far right side of the Sheepshead. The start of the climb has a 10c roof/bulge protected by two bolts. Look for a right-angling line of bolts headed up a 100' slab.

See the link to Kerry's online guide (above) for further details.

Protection Suggest change

All bolts, all cruxes well-protected. Even so, you should have a significant amount of multipitch experience before attempting this route. Due to the wandery nature of this route, retreat would be difficult after the first pitch, even with two ropes.