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Stampede
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.5 from 87
votes
Routes in The Sheepshead
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Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Direct South Face S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Great Pig in the Sky S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Greedy Little Varmint T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Poultry Emulsion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ranch Hands T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Shepherd, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A0 PG13 |
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Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Scott Ayers & Mark Colby |
| Page Views: | 17,888 total · 91/month |
| Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Mar 11, 2008 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
A fully bolted route with quality rock. Seven pitches, all of which are at least 5.10a.
[EDIT 1/2/14]
Apparently, Bob Kerry's description of this route was insufficient. It has been five years since this thing was been posted and nobody mentioned that to me. My bad, so here is a pitch by pitch description:
Rack: Quickdraws only.
Pitch 1 (5.11-, 100): Clip two bolts, then pull a difficult (10+) roof to establish yourself on the slab. Continue up the slab on increasingly difficult moves to an anchor on a ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.11-, 60): Traverse left, clipping two bolts. Pull around the arête (11-), then continue up and left to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10, 110): Climb up and left where you'll encounter a long reach move near the third bolt (10c). The route arcs back to the right on airy, exposed climbing to the anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.10-, 140): Work through 5.10- climbing past three bolts, after which the climbing eases off on more runout terrain. Belay at a ledge below and to the left of a large pine tree.
Pitch 5 (5.10, 130): Climb up and slightly left to a crux near the 5th bolt (10c). The climbing eases off and continues to a two bolt anchor at the right side of a large ledge.
Transfer the belay left: Walk left along the ledge a total of 160. Youll pass by a tree at about 100 and a two bolt anchor 30 feet beyond the tree. Your anchor is the second two bolt anchor 30 past the first one.
Pitch 6 (10+/11-, 100): Climb the chossy looking face (10b) and work up more slab (10+/11-) to a two bolt anchor next to a shrub. Another anchor is directly left on the other side of the shrub, an easy 50 pitch is possible here to escape to the top. Cams from 2-4 are needed for the anchor if you exit this way.
Pitch 7 (5.10+, 50): Climb the shallow trough past three bolts to the top.
[/EDIT]
Bob Kerry's description of the route can be found at climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
A detailed topo for this route can be downloaded at toofasttopos.com/free/
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