All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (… > The Sheepshead
Avg: 3.4 from 63 votes
Routes in The Sheepshead
|Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13|
|Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Greedy Little Varmint T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R|
|Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 800 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Scott Ayers & Mark Colby|
|Page Views:||11,670 total, 98/month|
|Shared By:||Geir on Mar 11, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionA fully bolted route with quality rock. Seven pitches, all of which are at least 5.10a.
Apparently Bob Kerry's Description was insufficient. It has been five years this things has been posted and nobody seemed to mention that to me. My bad, here is a pitch by pitch description:
Rack: Quickdraws only.
Pitch 1 (5.11-, 100): Clip two bolts, then pull a difficult (10+) roof to establish yourself on the slab. Continue up the slab on increasingly difficult moves to an anchor on a ledge.
Pitch 2 (5.11-, 60): Traverse left, clipping two bolts. Pull around the arête (11-), then continue up and left to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10, 110): Climb up and left where you will encounter a long reach move near the third bolt (10c). The route arcs back to the right for airy, exposed climbing to the anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.10-, 140): Work through 5.10- climbing past three bolts, after which the climbing eases off on more runout terrain. Belay at a ledge below and to the left of a large pine tree.
Pitch 5 (5.10, 130): Climb up and slightly left to a crux near the 5th bolt (10c). The climbing eases off and continues to a two bolt anchor at the right side of a large ledge.
Transfer the belay left: Walk left along the ledge a total of 160. Youll pass by a tree at about 100 and a two bolt anchor 30 feet beyond the tree. Your anchor is the second two bolt anchor 30 past the first one.
Pitch 6 (10+/11-, 100): Climb the chossy looking face (10b) and work up more slab (10+/11-) to a two bolt anchor next to a shrub. Another anchor is directly left on the other side of the shrub, an easy 50 pitch is possible here to escape to the top. Cams from 2-4 are needed for the anchor if you exit this way.
Pitch 7 (5.10+, 50): Climb the shallow trough past three bolts to the top.
Bob Kerry's description of the route can be found at climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
A detailed topo for this route can be downloaded at toofasttopos.com/free/
LocationStarts in the gully on the far right side of the Sheepshead. The start of the climb has a 10c roof/bulge protected by two bolts. Look for a right-angling line of bolts headed up a 100' slab.
See the link to Kerry's online guide (above) for further details.