Type: Sport, 7 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Dave Burke & Logan Litchtenhan
Page Views: 2,746 total · 25/month
Shared By: Zeb Rafaker on Jan 7, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Very fun route. rock quality gets better after the second pitch. second pitch is the most strenuous and the third has a distinct slab crux after the easy run out. Forth pitch eases off a little but not much, still steep and interesting. You can probably link pitches 5and6 and belay on a long ledge with several options. We choose the anchors closest to the shin daggers and from there we choose the route going right. From the next anchor you can choose to go up left or up right. We choose to continue up right. Steep and thin well bolted slab to the top.


To the right of Peacemaker. We used the first pitch of Peacemaker to traverse right to the ledge with the trees. From here we followed the tan bolts up a series of bulges.


Almost all bolts. I used small nuts for an anchor after the first pitch and a small nut for the 4th pitch and one on the 5th pitch.


Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
Climbed this route today and was very disappointed at how closely packed in this climb is between its neighboring routes. The climbing is fairly interesting in the first two pitches, but its squashed-in nature takes its appeal away (for me). One benefit this climb may have is to serve as a passing lane for Peacemaker when it's crowded.

To add to the description by the OP:

Approach: From the point where the approach trail ends at the base of Absinthe of Mallet, head right. You will pass under Peacemaker after about 75 feet; it is easily distinguished by the row of bolts headed up a slab on its first pitch. Continue past Peacemaker and head uphill past a boulder on your right. The trail turns back toward the face and leads to a large staging area under Ides of Middlemarch. Drop your packs here. Rack up and scramble up and left to a ledge. Two bolt lines depart from this ledge, you will follow the left one.

Pitch 1 (5.10, 115’): Climb easy terrain past several overlaps. The terrain steepens after a bulge and becomes more difficult (5.10). Follow the bolts up to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10, 120’): Follow bolts upward on 5.7-5.9 terrain. A short, easy runout leads to a dike and more bolts. Continue up a few harder slab moves (5.10) to the left of a prominent brown stain. Continue to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3: (5.10, 200’): Pull a few difficult moves right from the belay (5.10), then sling a chickenhead and pick up a bolt line to the left of a prominent crack. Pull through some 5.10 slab and arrive at a stance as the angle backs off. Keep to the right (ignore the bolts on Peacemaker within easy reach). Climb up an easy crack and place a few pieces of gear passing two more bolts. Pull over an easy bulge and run it out 30 feet on easy terrain to a belay just right of a prominent tree.

There are a variety of endings available for this climb. At this time I don't think this climb has an independent ending; I'm pretty sure that the description in the OP is for the ending of Mad Cow Disease (one could also finish on Stampede, Ides, or Peacemaker). To continue as described in the OP, use these directions:

Transfer the belay up and left about 40’ to a two bolt anchor shared with Peacemaker.

Pitch 4 (5.10, 80’): From the belay anchor choose the bolt line to your right. Climb past 5 bolts, place a piece of gear, and then climb up a short, grungy crack to a two bolt anchor on your left.

Pitch 5: (5.10, 80’): Climb the bolt line up and left past five bolts on tricky slab (around 10c). Continue on easy terrain up and right past two more bolts to the summit.

Rack: Few pieces are needed for this heavily bolted line; I'd suggest a light rack of cams including 1" and 3.5". An assortment of cams < 1" is helpful for the easy crack on pitch 3.

The topo for the southwest face of Sheepshead has been updated to include this route:

toofasttopos.com/free/ Feb 16, 2010
Mike Diesen
Sierra Vista, AZ
Mike Diesen   Sierra Vista, AZ
Probably one of the best routes on Sheepshead. Climbed it 3 times and it just gets better each time. Harder than Peacemaker with lots of varied climbing. Overhanging bulges, steep slab, little crack, thin face. You name it's there. Does require a light rack. Nov 29, 2010
Joel Longo
Mooresville, NC
Joel Longo   Mooresville, NC
I thought this route was a lot of fun. Like Mike said, lots of varied climbing. We finished up on the the last pitches of Stampede which was a fitting finish, however I haven't done any of the others so I can't say they wouldn't be better. Dec 24, 2010
Stu Ritchie
Stu Ritchie   Denver
This is a very good route, one of the finest on Sheepshead. A #3 Camalot is really nice on the first pitch. It's definitely all that for 5.10b/c! Jan 18, 2011
Justin York
Phoenix, AZ
Justin York   Phoenix, AZ
I agree with the others - this is a great route! Varied and challenging climbing. I think the first pitch is harder than anything on peacemaker, and had some .10+ moves IMHO. Only used a couple pieces of pro on the first pitch and third pitch (easy crack). Did the three pitches up to the large ledge, then finished on peacemaker in one long pitch. Great day! Mar 18, 2012
Tucson, Arizona
bikesrockswaves   Tucson, Arizona
Superb route. Great vertical climbing on many sections with great (and solid) vert-slab crux moves. Finished on the 2 pitches right of Peacemaker's ending pitch, which seemed fitting, which was also excellent and has tight, tough slabmaster crux (well protected); don't recommend running those together as 2nd pitch needs a close belay.

Need a 60m rope to get from belay #2 to #3, or can belay off a couple cams. A light rack can't hurt. The .75 and .5 seemed particularly handy.

Seems like this superb thing should have a name... How about "Peace Momma" Mar 30, 2013
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
This route was established by Scott Ayers. May 8, 2013
Was just wondering if a light rack is absolutely necessary for this multipitch or if it is like peacemaker and you can do without? Oct 11, 2013
cdawg Norman
Tucson, Arizona
cdawg Norman   Tucson, Arizona
Great route with lots of cool moves and some pretty technical slabby cruxes. Did this with my partner today when another group beat us to Peacemaker. It was my first climb on the Sheepshead and we climbed without any additional pro. It made for a few spicy sections, but very manageable. Expect runouts on easy terrain. Dec 2, 2013
Neil Kauffman
Bishop, CA
Neil Kauffman   Bishop, CA
Disagree with Geir on squeeze nature of this climb. We had parties on Peacemaker and Ides while we climbed this, and while they are close, the routes never really get close to touching or sharing holds. However, the route doesn't have an independent finish off the upper ledge. We climbed Mad Cow Disease to finish, as Peacemaker was taken.
11- in the guidebook Jan 15, 2017
Gilbert AZ
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
Fun climb. Thought it was as hard as stampede or maybe it was warmer out and felt greasey. Definitely way harder then Peacemaker or absinthe. only placed 3 cams .4, .5 and #1. We started on pitch 1 of peacemaker and cut right to the ledge pitch-3 is a full 60 meters. Another fun line on the Sheepshead! Mar 7, 2018
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
This route is stout! The crux is the slab at the end of p2. By far. Nov 18, 2018