Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers & Bart Murphy (1987). Scott Ayers & Tanya Bok (2007)
Page Views: 3,617 total · 21/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Mar 4, 2010 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

This is a fun route that climbs over a few interesting features. It actually starts LEFT of Ides of Middlemarch and crosses over it at the end of pitch 1. To locate the start, scramble up and left about 40' from the start of Ides. Two bolt lines depart from this area, you will use the one headed to the right.

Pitch 1 (5.8, 90'): Follow bolts up and right on slabby 5.8 terrain. A few pieces of gear need to be placed on this pitch. Ends at the anchors for the first pitch of Ides of Middlemarch.

Pitch 2 (5.10-, 100'): Climb up and slightly right to a crack. Place a few pieces of gear to protect moves leading out to a bolt line on your right. (Be careful here as a fall would result in a nasty swing.) Move to the bolt line (10-) and climb up a neat arete to a ledge. Traverse right on the ledge about 20 feet to an anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10-, 100'): Follow two bolts up over a bulge, then walk 15' right across a neat detached arch in the rock. Once across, climb straight up past two bolts, then head up and left for 15' protecting with gear and bolts. After reaching a shallow hole in the rock, head straight up to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (110', 5.8): Climb up and right following three bolts. After the third bolt bear up and left a few feet into an easy crack. Follow it up easy terrain with great rock. Protect with 1"-3" cams and nuts. At 110' there is a white patch of chickenheads left of a round boulder perched on a rock. Belay here on nuts or link the next pitch.

Pitch 5 (80', 5.7): Continue straight up on 5.7 terrain protecting with a couple of medium size cams and nuts. Belay at a two bolt anchor.

Transfer the belay up and left 100' on easy terrain (stay roped up) to a large ledge. Stop at a two bolt anchor at the top of pitch 5 of Peacemaker. See the topo for details.

To continue to the top, the original route bears right as described below. I checked out this ending after it was reported in January 2017. Frankly, it is not that great but I added it to the topo for historical accuracy. I suggest finishing on the final two pitches of Peacemaker.

Pitch 6 (5.9, 170'): Clip the first two bolts on the right hand line of bolts (Mad Cow Disease), then traverse right on a narrow vegetated ledge to a tiny pine tree. Climb straight up from the pine tree, passing two bolts, to a large vegetated ledge. Traverse right on the ledge past its end and another bolt, finally stepping down into a vegetated notch. Belay at a nice big pine just above the top of the notch.

Pitch 7 (5.5, 50'): Climb up and left on chossy rock to a prominent notch. Body belay in the notch or go to the back of it and belay from trees.

Location Suggest change

Download the updated topo using this link:


Protection Suggest change

Singles to 3.5" and stoppers are plenty to protect this mostly-bolted route.